Subwoofer build question jl w6v3

[cesar ortiz]

You guys so I have a quick question I have a jl w6v3 12 inch sub laying around in my room inside a CAR box

Is it possible to make this sub in to a theater sub

Maybe build a specific box for this sub and use a powered amp on the box or something
Or do you guys think it’s not worth it at all

I mean the sub is a very great sub in my car it used to shake the crap out of everything

But I do not use it anymore and it’s just there siting so I was wondering if I can use it for this application

 

[ryanosaur]

I'm not an expert on this, but if you wanted to build a box to try it out, doesn't seem like a bad way to play. The parameters aren't bad at all, and it's a pretty expensive Driver.
Might be worth looking into how different box sizes would perform with that Driver, and how you would implement the ports necessary to get some lower extension... though you won't get anywhere near low enough to really cover the LFE effects in the .1 programming of any HT or Multi-Channel (5.1 DTS, for example) Audio.
You would also need to be careful with how you use the DVCs of that driver. Of course, you can hook it up with only one voice coil, too. Regardless, with the right set up, you could run your L/R stereo signal through the proper Plate Amp with Speaker Level- or High-Level- Inputs, and Outputs that go directly to your Mains, which feeds into my next thought:
Perhaps that Driver could be implemented more effectively as a Mid-Bass Module... perhaps even in a Bandpass Box (or not)... which would help elevate that chest-thump effect in your system.

I'm just brainstorming and throwing out ideas that may spark something for you. Me?, I'm just learning about speaker design and hoping to build my first Sub this Summer.

Cheers!

 

[carlthess40]

I myself have used many car audio drivers for either 2 Channel or HT setups and for subs you could make a killer sub setup with that driver and make it sound a lot better then if it was in a car. As you can build a proper box for it , in a car your doing good if you can make it work in a range of 20 to 60 hz. But for the house and with the right box you may be able to go from 15hz to 110hz without any problems and have some great sound to boot. In a car the sound is horrible because of the limited size of the box
That’s way they call car subs one note wonders. Lol
Download a speaker box software and enter all the info and see what you can do
I’m sure it will work in many different types of boxes. The only limit is your wood working skills and how large you can place in the room


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[lovinthehd]

Model the T/S parameters with something like winisd...should give you an idea. Or ask JL.

 

[cesar ortiz]

I'm not an expert on this, but if you wanted to build a box to try it out, doesn't seem like a bad way to play. The parameters aren't bad at all, and it's a pretty expensive Driver.
Might be worth looking into how different box sizes would perform with that Driver, and how you would implement the ports necessary to get some lower extension... though you won't get anywhere near low enough to really cover the LFE effects in the .1 programming of any HT or Multi-Channel (5.1 DTS, for example) Audio.
You would also need to be careful with how you use the DVCs of that driver. Of course, you can hook it up with only one voice coil, too. Regardless, with the right set up, you could run your L/R stereo signal through the proper Plate Amp with Speaker Level- or High-Level- Inputs, and Outputs that go directly to your Mains, which feeds into my next thought:
Perhaps that Driver could be implemented more effectively as a Mid-Bass Module... perhaps even in a Bandpass Box (or not)... which would help elevate that chest-thump effect in your system.

I'm just brainstorming and throwing out ideas that may spark something for you. Me?, I'm just learning about speaker design and hoping to build my first Sub this Summer.

Cheers!

Thanks for the response when I had it on my car I had a porter box on it and to be honest this driver used to give me some ridiculous low frequency bass to the point it will hurt my ears lol that’s why I asked my self how would it sound for a home theater platform

I mean I’m assuming it could go pretty low I’m guessing since is a pretty high end driver

It was about 700 bucks or when I got it or maybe even more I forgot


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[cesar ortiz]

I myself have used many car audio drivers for either 2 Channel or HT setups and for subs you could make a killer sub setup with that driver and make it sound a lot better then if it was in a car. As you can build a proper box for it , in a car your doing good if you can make it work in a range of 20 to 60 hz. But for the house and with the right box you may be able to go from 15hz to 110hz without any problems and have some great sound to boot. In a car the sound is horrible because of the limited size of the box
That’s way they call car subs one note wonders. Lol
Download a speaker box software and enter all the info and see what you can do
I’m sure it will work in many different types of boxes. The only limit is your wood working skills and how large you can place in the room


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Ima see what I do I think I am going to pull the trigger and try to build something

Or I wonder if there is some one in SoCal that can build boxes

Does anyone know


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[ryanosaur]

Thanks for the response when I had it on my car I had a porter box on it and to be honest this driver used to give me some ridiculous low frequency bass to the point it will hurt my ears lol that’s why I asked my self how would it sound for a home theater platform

I mean I’m assuming it could go pretty low I’m guessing since is a pretty high end driver

It was about 700 bucks or when I got it or maybe even more I forgot


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I don't have the experience to tell you what is possible with a Driver having an Fs of 27Hz. @lovinthehd, any suggestions? In most of what I've been reading/studying, I haven't seen anything that indicates a safe below-Fs tuning... usually the Fs always rises a little in "recommended builds."
What you were experiencing is just output/SPL. I had the same experience setting up my Subs in my Listening Room. Until I got them dialed in, they were putting out so much energy that my ears would start to go numb in about 5 minutes.

 

[cesar ortiz]

I don't have the experience to tell you what is possible with a Driver having an Fs of 27Hz. @lovinthehd, any suggestions? In most of what I've been reading/studying, I haven't seen anything that indicates a safe below-Fs tuning... usually the Fs always rises a little in "recommended builds."
What you were experiencing is just output/SPL. I had the same experience setting up my Subs in my Listening Room. Until I got them dialed in, they were putting out so much energy that my ears would start to go numb in about 5 minutes.

Yeah maybe that lol

I would play sub testing music with low frequencies and man the low frequencies would feel so crazy

The driver would shake the box the excursion would look insane it would pop out like a inch easily lol


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[lovinthehd]

I don't have the experience to tell you what is possible with a Driver having an Fs of 27Hz. @lovinthehd, any suggestions? In most of what I've been reading/studying, I haven't seen anything that indicates a safe below-Fs tuning... usually the Fs always rises a little in "recommended builds."
What you were experiencing is just output/SPL. I had the same experience setting up my Subs in my Listening Room. Until I got them dialed in, they were putting out so much energy that my ears would start to go numb in about 5 minutes.

Model it. Can it get to sufficient spl in a typical room (vs car cabin)?

 

[TankTop5]

Just ranting but almost every car sub I have ever heard was setup purely for sound pressure level and nothing else. With the exception of a very clean Honda CR-X that had 6 8” subs in a single sealed enclosure and I’m sure a massive power supply. It was clean and would punch through your soul!


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[cesar ortiz]

You guys think is a good idea or would it be a waste of time and waste of money


And just rather buy a used sub


At the moment I have a klipsch r110
And I want to add a second sub to get better response cuz I feel like there is a lot of standing waves or cancellations of some sort

The room is very small

Is basically a cube

Is a square room so I know is hard so I’m basically trying to get the best performance
Right now my brother let me barrow his super cube 4000 and it made a huge difference

Still have a bit of complications in some frequencies tho


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[ryanosaur]

When it comes to setting up subs in a room, the biggest factor is open room volume.

Is your room closed, or open to other spaces?
What are the dimensions... LxWxH? This should include all open space the LF Soundwaves will get to play in... not just your actual listening room, please.

When it comes to setting up multiple Subs, matching Subs will perform better than mismatching subs. You can pair mismatching subs, but it takes skill/experience and use of DSPs to help blend them. Depending on the size of your room and AVR, your subs will always be limited by the weakest sub in the chain.

 

[cesar ortiz]

When it comes to setting up subs in a room, the biggest factor is open room volume.

Is your room closed, or open to other spaces?
What are the dimensions... LxWxH? This should include all open space the LF Soundwaves will get to play in... not just your actual listening room, please.

When it comes to setting up multiple Subs, matching Subs will perform better than mismatching subs. You can pair mismatching subs, but it takes skill/experience and use of DSPs to help blend them. Depending on the size of your room and AVR, your subs will always be limited by the weakest sub in the chain.

So the room is a closed room is not a open area or living room

The room is 8 feet by 9 feet and ceiling being 9 feet tall

And I have both subs up front and like I mentioned I am only using my brothers sub just to see if it made a difference

And for a receiver I am using a Yamaha aventage

Is a 7.1 but I am only using 5.1 at the moment I feel like the room is too small for 7.1

 

[cesar ortiz]

When it comes to setting up subs in a room, the biggest factor is open room volume.

Is your room closed, or open to other spaces?
What are the dimensions... LxWxH? This should include all open space the LF Soundwaves will get to play in... not just your actual listening room, please.

When it comes to setting up multiple Subs, matching Subs will perform better than mismatching subs. You can pair mismatching subs, but it takes skill/experience and use of DSPs to help blend them. Depending on the size of your room and AVR, your subs will always be limited by the weakest sub in the chain.

Oh and another thing I have one sub set to 0 phase and the super cube is set to 90 I think


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[cesar ortiz]

Current set up not the best but is ok to watch movies every now and then


Stereo speakers are the hvl-1
Center is a old klipsch reference book shelf speaker I had

And the rear are klipsch also


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[William Lemmerhirt]

The good news is that the room is tiny. Bad news is all dims are almost the same. FS is way too high for my liking, but you have it so might as well try something. Wonder what JL suggests for a box?

 

[ryanosaur]

They have sealed and ported recommendations on their site... I think ported only goes down to 31 Hz iirc.

 

[cesar ortiz]

The good news is that the room is tiny. Bad news is all dims are almost the same. FS is way too high for my liking, but you have it so might as well try something. Wonder what JL suggests for a box?

Sorry I’m a bit new to all of this

What is FS lol




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[William Lemmerhirt]

Sorry I’m a bit new to all of this

What is FS lol




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Sorry man. FS is the free air resonance of a driver. It’s difficult to make one perform below its FS. So for example(using @ryanosaur s number), the 27hz FS of the JL would be suited for a smaillish sealed enclosure for a small room with the hopes of room gain boosting below 30hz. You could EQ(boost) the heck out of it below 30 but you’d be introducing a lot of distortion and excursion that might cause it to bottom without protection circuitry.
It would be difficult to use your driver in an enclosure that was tuned lower than 25-27hz without hurting it.

 

[TLS Guy]

Most car drivers are designed with car cab gain in mind, and make poor home sub drivers. This one is an exception. The driver volumes on the JL site are not correct. None of them ever are on that site.

That driver is primarily designed to be in a sealed enclosure. However there is a ported solution, but the port length to get an acceptable vent air velocity is fairly long. So you will have to be creative to wind it round the box. The vent resonance is acceptable however being around 200 Hz, so if you don't drive it above 100 Hz you will be fine.

I have modeled that sub for you sealed and vented. When you add driver volume, vent volume and bracing volume you will end up with around a 3 cu.ft enclosure vented.

If you choose to go sealed, then you have enough cone displacement in reserve to add Eq. You would need equalization at 12 db per octave starting at 50 Hz and a 12 db per octave high pass filter at 25 Hz to prevent driver damage from over excursion.

I have attached your files.