Stain vs. Composite vs. Veneer Decking

[rnatalli]

Ok folks, when we built our home in 2011, we didn't have enough cash for an additional upgrade to Trex so opted to build the deck out of pressure-treated wood. It was sealed upon building, then again in 2013, and needs another round. It seems sealing is an annual thing and for our 12 x 32 deck, it costs about $1,200 each time. I'm dreading the thought of having to do this annually so want to consider other options. One option is to pull up the wood boards and replace them with composite which would be expensive as I couldn't do it myself. I'm also aware that composite has its own share of problems. Another option is to purchase composite veneer which gets glued to the present wood boards which I could do myself. This of course has the problem of being susceptible to the wood warping so one thought is to purchase extra so when a wood board warps, replacing one board is easy and I would have veneer to match. The final option is to stick with staining. Any thoughts?

 

[macddmac]

3.00 a sq ft to re-seal a deck? Wow.
if you diy, you can save about 1100.00 a year.
A quick wash the day before and a couple hours in the morning or evening and you're done.
do it every year and it's easy-will extend the life of your deck too.
when they finally do wear out, replace the deck boards with quality redwood or cedar.
you can get it down to an hour once you know what your doing.
Cheers, Mac

 

[rnatalli]

I think it's the railings that take forever. Is there a particular sealant you recommend?

 

[ImcLoud]

OK, so we have built a lot of houses, and I always told people, unless you like painting or paying for paint do not put stuff you have to pain or stain on your house, vinyl, hardie board, ect will be good for a very long time vs clap board and wood siding is going to need finish frequently... BUT in some cases like trax you pay a lot for it up front...
When I built my own house I used fiber cement board siding, stucco, and stone, and then all 4 porches are done with composite decking, aluminum trim, pvc railings and ceilings... I wouldn't think twice to do it again, it still looks good, east to clean, can be slippery and get hot in the sun {our porches are all covered with roofs} but if you install it correctly it will last a very long time and look very good the entire time, plus no splitting, splinters, rotting, softening, bugs, ect....

If your boards are still good and just need stain and you used deck screws and not nails when you installed them you can easily sell that wood, expect to get 1/2 price but someone will buy it, when I rehab rental properties I trex deck any outdoor flooring they have and if the existing wood is good {sometimes its almost new} I advertise it on craigslist and it doesnt take long to sell it, in more than one case the guys came and wanted to measure my deck so they new exactly what size to build their own, I had a guy buy a 20x18 deck from me and then measure every board and drew picutres of how it was built because he had no idea how to do it, he even asked me how long the anchor bolts were, not sure if his deck is still standing but he had to save a bunch of money buying used flooring, rails, and doing it himself...

 

[Swerd]

I think it's the railings that take forever. Is there a particular sealant you recommend?

I've had the same treated wood deck since 1997. Every other year, I first clean it with this Fence Stain | Solid Wood Finish | Flood. I don't have a pressure washer, instead I wet the deck, dilute 1 part of the cleaner to 4 parts water in a 5 gallon bucket and brush it on with a 1 foot wide stiff bristle broom. I let it soak in for about an hour, and wash it off with a garden hose. I forget the coverage, but you will need several gallon jugs of this concentrate.

Once cleaned and dried, I roll on this CWF-UV5 | Clear Deck Stain | Flood. I bought a foot wide roller, a tray to fit it, and use a broom handle so I can stand up while rolling it on. Again, read the recommended coverage and buy enough cans for your deck.

At first I used to brush this stuff on the hand rails, but that took much longer than doing the deck. So now I use the roller to get the horizontal surfaces of the rail. The vertical parts of the rail don't collect water, and don't get the same sunlight exposure as the flat horizontal surfaces. And that seems to work.

There are other good brands of deck sealer or stains besides CW Flood. The more linseed oil they contain, the better they work, and the more they cost.

Apparently, the low-cost heavily-advertised products, such as Thompson's or Olympic, contain the least linseed oil. The guy who built my deck recommended I stay away from those and use CW Flood or other brands with higher linseed oil content. I always found CW Flood in Lowes or HD, so I've stayed with that.

 

[crossedover]

Sealing annually isn't that bad. I purchased one of these PRESSURE WASHERS : AAA Rent-All with a neighbor and it takes no time to complete the initial cleaning. Even renting a half day is cost and time effective.

 

[macddmac]

I think it's the railings that take forever. Is there a particular sealant you recommend?

For a tinted transparent oil, I use penofin,
For semi transparent, Behr or Olympic
For solid; Behr.
Solids last the longest, but you're married to them once you commit as you won't be able to go back to a transparent.
with semi and solid, you shouldn't have to worry about the spindles and rails but once every 3 years or so.
the tops of handrails get a quick shot when re- coating the walking surface evry other year for semis and every 3rd year for solids.
Cheers, Mac

 

[rnatalli]

Thanks guys for the info so far. My boards were nailed down so I think I'm stuck with it for now until we have the appetite in the future to replace the boards. I have a co-worker with a pressure washer so can borrow his and then will pick up some sealer at Lowes. What do you think for a 12 x 32 deck; about 2 gallons or so for transparent?

 

[macddmac]

Get 2- if you don't need the extra return it

 

[Rickster71]

If I may add a bit to what was already mentioned.

If you have to use a pressure washer, keep the pressure low and use a wide nozzle.
The problem with pressure washing is, if not done by an experienced user, it lifts and destroys the wood fibers.
It roughs up the surface creating more places for dirt and mold to go.

I had a deck for ten years and always used deck wash and a stiff broom.

The sun and the freeze / thaw cycle destroys wood over time. Especially horizontal wood decking.
Wet wood freezes internally, the ice expands and cracks and checks the wood and pulls up nails. (Use deck screws)

I used a floor sander, then everything from tung oil to many different semi-transparent stains. (Non held up more than one year)
Check Consumer Reports, they rate solid and transparent stains from one to three years in an ongoing test.
The solid stains are more like paint and seem to last longer.

Wood continually expands and contracts due to its moisture content changing and its exposure to the sun.
Even when coated, it soaks up much of the moisture from its end grain. So that needs to be sealed too.

Long story short.
I ripped my deck down and built my own steps down from my slider and back door and put in a paver patio

Some Composite Decking needs to be on joists with 12" centers. An added expense, since your 5/4" decking is probably on 16"

I'd stay away from the laminate/veneer. I can't imagine it lasting. moisture will be trapped below it and the wood will still absorb water through the end grain and laminate.

Good Luck

 

[TheWarrior]

The home I am renovating had no front porch when I bought it, and a 20 year old pressure treated deck. I had the same choice as you. My father had the Trex stuff installed, and I must say it is nice. I would question how well it really holds up on a deck that gets full sun, but for his covered porch I can see the appeal of no maintenance.

But I just love the look of wood grain. And if cared for properly, a natural wood (no pressure treating) floor with 2 coats of Olympic Maximum on all 6 sides should see you through a solid 7 years of no maintenance other then making sure to keep the leaves cleaned off. And then its just two afternoons of refinishing to do it again.

After 20 years that 5/4 decking was very soft and bowed. I would question its staying power. But its also important to note you use a lot more electricity making 5/4 rather than just using a standard 2x6 and therefore costs more. So I painted the back and sides of the 2x6's, and then after screwing them down I would paint the deck. I also make tarp tents as we get frequent unexpected rain showers in GA these days. The total for 280 sqft of deck all inclusive was under $1500 using 2x8 PT joists. I think my finished cost per 2x6 was $7 and some change. Just couldn't fathom spending $35-$40 per board, when I like the way the cheaper one looks better!

 

[Kevinnderson]

Wood Deck Services have helped countless homeowners keep their decks weather-resistant and visually appealing.

 

[panteragstk]

Wood Deck Services have helped countless homeowners keep their decks weather-resistant and visually appealing.

Are you a bot?

 

[mtrycrafts]

I have Ipe deck and let it naturally age. Stainless fasteners from underneath. Well over 20 years old.

 

[lovinthehd]

I bought a house with quite a bit of wood decking area. I've replaced boards (screwed in so not too bad to take individual ones out). I've stained it a coupla times. Have used some of the wash solutions as well as my pressure washer. I had a neighbor who sheeted over his deck and put a roofing material sealant over it....he had run his own roofing company so he had a bit of an edge there in terms of material choice/access . He just didn't want to do the staining etc. Only wood he left were some nice railings (just the top part, iron connecting deck to railing).