Sony VPL-VW285ES and widescreen?

moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
I've read that this projector is made for 16:9 screens... I am interested in getting a widescreen 2:35:1 and am wondering if this projector would project a widescreen image to a 2:35:1 screen.

Audioadvice.com at the following site: https://www.audioadvice.com/content/2018/02/19/sony-4k-projector-comparison-285es-385es-675es-885es/ writes:

"The 285ES is made for an HDTV aspect ratio and should be used with a 16:9 screen. If you have a room that allows you to control the light and pair it with a high-quality screen, like a Stewart Studiotek 130, we have been able to get the screen up to 160” diagonal without losing quality. It has a brightness spec of 1500 lumens, which is great for this category. If you don’t want to go as big, opting instead for a 100-120” 16:9 screen, you’ll be able to enjoy it even in a room with a lot of light!"

Any ideas?
 
Last edited:
moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
How is this Sony compared to the
JVC DLA-X570R Projector?

I've read that the Sony is a true 4k while the JVC relies on the weaker pixel shifting.... I've read 2 reviews and each were saying different things..... one was saying the Sony is better equipped for 4k while the other JVC guy said that it's a better picture. JVC has the better blacks of course just lacks resolution.

 
DigitalDawn

DigitalDawn

Senior Audioholic
You can use the 285 with motorized zooming for a 2.35:1 aspect ratio. The only problem is that there's no lens memory on this model, so it would take a minute or so to set up for each aspect you want to use.
 
moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
Thanks again! Any input on the 285 vs the JVC DLA-X570R?
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
You are asking two very different questions.

On quality, it comes down to image sharpness vs. contrast and black level. By all accounts, contrast and black level is a more important factor in image quality than resolution as long as resolution isn't significantly different. It's also worth noting that the Sony does not support full 18Gb/s HDMI 2.0, but it is limited to about 13Gb/s. This means it can't support 60Hz gaming or future video at 4K with HDR the way that the JVC models can. For the money, I think the JVC is a better buy at this time. It's not true 4K, but it is the better image. If I had the Sony, I wouldn't complain. But, I would prefer the JVC, and not by a lot, just a little.

Now, I'm guessing you have a really wide wall that just doesn't support a 16:9 screen, so you really are forced to use a 2.35 screen instead. If that's not the case, just get a 16:9 screen and call it a day. Using a 2.35 screen is not the 'preferred' way to go, it's a choice, and it requires more effort during use than just getting a 16:9 screen. If you hate the black bars, you can get masks for your screen to take it to 2.35 if you want to.

Remember! The ability to switch between 2.35 and 16:9 content is required. All HDTV material, sports, video gaming, and some movies are in the 16:9 format. Only movies are 2.35, and not even all of them.

But, if you get a 2.35 screen, then you must either:
A: Get an anamorphic lens of high enough quality to support 4K resolution. That's about $5,000 from Panamorph, and you will need a sled of some sort to move the lens in front of and away from the projector for 16:9 content.
B: Use the zoom method. That is, zoom the image out so that only the center part hits your 2.35 screen, then zoom in, and make the image smaller, to fit the full resolution of the projector into the 16:9 space.

Option 'B' is the more typical way to do this nowadays because it saves you a bunch of money and really is very close in quality since you aren't double scaling the pixels.

So, you would want/need a projector with motorized zoom, focus, lens shift, and with memory presets for that setup to allow you to recall the different screen sizes. You also must place the projector in the range allowed to hit both screen sizes (16:9 height and 2.35 width).

The Sony LACKS this feature for no reason at all. This means that you must manually change the settings everytime you switch from 2.35 material to 16:9 material. It is a complete deal breaker if you really are stuck using a 2.35 screen. So, I would get a 16:9 screen with the Sony for sure.

The JVC has motorized lenses with presets so you can do this with a 2.35 screen quite easily.

One more point for the JVC if you are using a 2.35 screen.
 
moves

moves

Audioholic Chief
You are asking two very different questions.

On quality, it comes down to image sharpness vs. contrast and black level. By all accounts, contrast and black level is a more important factor in image quality than resolution as long as resolution isn't significantly different. It's also worth noting that the Sony does not support full 18Gb/s HDMI 2.0, but it is limited to about 13Gb/s. This means it can't support 60Hz gaming or future video at 4K with HDR the way that the JVC models can. For the money, I think the JVC is a better buy at this time. It's not true 4K, but it is the better image. If I had the Sony, I wouldn't complain. But, I would prefer the JVC, and not by a lot, just a little. In your opinion, the JVC has a better picture than the true 4k content that the Sony can display?

Now, I'm guessing you have a really wide wall that just doesn't support a 16:9 screen, so you really are forced to use a 2.35 screen instead. If that's not the case, just get a 16:9 screen and call it a day. Using a 2.35 screen is not the 'preferred' way to go, it's a choice, and it requires more effort during use than just getting a 16:9 screen. If you hate the black bars, you can get masks for your screen to take it to 2.35 if you want to. My room is 13.5 feet wide. It has room for a 16:9 but just like the look of the widescreen. I understand that only certain movies will benefit.

Remember! The ability to switch between 2.35 and 16:9 content is required. All HDTV material, sports, video gaming, and some movies are in the 16:9 format. Only movies are 2.35, and not even all of them.

But, if you get a 2.35 screen, then you must either:
A: Get an anamorphic lens of high enough quality to support 4K resolution. That's about $5,000 from Panamorph, and you will need a sled of some sort to move the lens in front of and away from the projector for 16:9 content.
B: Use the zoom method. That is, zoom the image out so that only the center part hits your 2.35 screen, then zoom in, and make the image smaller, to fit the full resolution of the projector into the 16:9 space.

Option 'B' is the more typical way to do this nowadays because it saves you a bunch of money and really is very close in quality since you aren't double scaling the pixels.

So, you would want/need a projector with motorized zoom, focus, lens shift, and with memory presets for that setup to allow you to recall the different screen sizes. You also must place the projector in the range allowed to hit both screen sizes (16:9 height and 2.35 width).

The Sony LACKS this feature for no reason at all. This means that you must manually change the settings everytime you switch from 2.35 material to 16:9 material. It is a complete deal breaker if you really are stuck using a 2.35 screen. So, I would get a 16:9 screen with the Sony for sure. Yes this sucks.

The JVC has motorized lenses with presets so you can do this with a 2.35 screen quite easily.

One more point for the JVC if you are using a 2.35 screen.
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
In your opinion, the JVC has a better picture than the true 4k content that the Sony can display?
I think it's kind of a moot point if you aren't using an anamorphic lens, then the manual process of the Sony isn't worth it or helpful. But, yes, I will take better black levels with full 18Gb/s HDMI 2.0 and fifth generation eShift technology over what Sony currently delivers in their entry level 4K product. JVC just does a better job in a good room.

It has room for a 16:9 but just like the look of the widescreen. I understand that only certain movies will benefit.
I've explained things pretty thoroughly. You could always get a 16:9 screen and a masking system for it to mask it down to 2.35 and keep the width the same. Instead of a constant image height setup, you have a constant image width setup. This means you don't have to zoom in/out at all, or worry about an anamorphic lens. You can just mask/unmask the screen when you want to bring it down to 2.35 aspect ratio and you won't know the difference. That's an option at least.

Seymour AV offers screens with magnetic masking panels...
http://www.audioholics.com/combo-pack-ebooks/learn/displays/projector-screens/seymour-av-screen-review/2970

http://www.seymourav.com/masking.asp

If I had the space for 16:9 and hated the borders with 2.35, then I would opt for this as the solution.
 

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