Sonosub vs Folded Horn

[Mountainear]

Hello all, I've moved over here from the sub thread, new to DIY speakers. I'm wanting a sub, don't have one at all now. I'd like to have one for use inside and temporarily outside for backyard movies and music. It appears in going the DIY route, I could make 2 passive subs, use the same amp for both. I'd like to spend <$600.00.

I took a look at Nestor's thtlp's folded horns, appear to be from Bill Fitzmaurice's page. I bet the sound is wonderful. However, in looking around at over at fuzz's recommended Part's Express DIY tech talk page, speaker builder's bible, I saw cylinder subs, big one's larger than SVS pc 13 ultra. Then I found this thread How To Make A DIY Cylinder Subwoofer (AKA A Sonosub). It sounds easier to build than a horn, and could possibly use outside and inside both, better WAF..? How would a say 20" or 24" diameter sonosub with height of about 46" compare to the thtlp? Should I copy this to the DIY thread? Thanks again Nestor and fuzz.

 

[Nestor]

The sonosubs are basically a sealed or vented enclosure in a different shape. They would certainly be quicker to build than the tht, but depending on your woodworking skills, a basic mdf enclosure may be within your grasp as well. As for WAF, only your significant other can tell you, but in my eye, sonsosubs, finished with the right covering, are aesthetically pleasing. I did consider a sonsosub at one time.

The tht(lp) will have higher sensitivity and lower distortion, due to the horn design. They are more challenging to build, however, BFM's plans are very detailed, relatively fool-proof (if followed to the letter) and geared towards minimal purchase of power tools. They're probably more challenging to finish to waf standards, especially the larger sizes.

As for use outside, the non-"lp" version of the tht is more cube-like and would seem less precarious to move than a sonosub. Neither design is really suited for outside events though.bThe THT, in particular is optimized for indoor acoustics. If you really want to move it around, I would give up on waf and paint either of them with duratex. As I'm sure you noticed BFM has several horn designs better suited for outdoors, (and for transport!).

Hope my two bits helps.

 

[Mountainear]

Nestor, you may be overestimating my noticing skills. On BFM's site, as far as sub horn designs for outdoors, do you mean the Tubas 30, 45, and 60's? I'm thinking to be able to store the sub in the winter and when not in use in my attic, I'd need one to be 18" wide or less, which it appears he has versions of in the Tuba line.

For indoors, I'm still thinking I'd like to build a sonosub, for ease of build, as well as WAF appearance. I'm hoping to be able to run both with the same amp, not at the same time.

 

[Nestor]

Your plan certainly sounds doable.

If you decide on one of the tubas, try to build it first before you settle on the indoor sub. It may give you some better insight on the tht.

Also, peruse the bfm forum. There's lots of members who are willing to give you more concise suggestions on what outside sub to build.

Berhinger is a popular amp. I think it would do well for the horns and the sonosub.

 

[Mountainear]

Hello and greetings. I've completed my first Table Tuba sub build from bfm. I'm planning to build another one, have the driver for it already. However, the Crown Drivecore XLS 1000 I bought to power them both appears not to be matching up or playing nice with my Marantz SR5007 AV receiver. A reviewer at parts express said his av receiver wouldn't give needed 2 volts from sub out to power his crown drivecore amp, so he ended up returning it. In doing Audyssey setup, the Marantz cranks up the sub level to 6.5, I turned the Crown almost to all the way up to 10 to be able to hear much output from the sub. I know the sub itself can do better, as in checking for air leaks, I used a $20 JVC thrift shop receiver to power a 4 volt test tone at 25 Hz. It was rattling pictures on wall, etc. Do you think I need to get a difference amp for the the subwoofers, return Crown? If so, what circa $300 or less amp would you suggest to replace it that would also play nice with the Marantz? Thanks for all your help in advance! I'll post 2 px of build if you wish, fwiw.

 

[Natrix]

I had to use Amazon.com: ART CLEANBoxPro: Musical Instruments to bump up the voltage from my minidsp to power my Crown XLS. Not dirt cheap, but it gets the job done.

 

[Mountainear]

Thanks Natrix, that seems to work. although now I'm thinking of trying an amp that has DSP/EQ to try to tighten up a bit, see my posts on the Crown drivecore thread. Here are some px from my first ever speaker build! https://plus.google.com/photos/117694954143283511297/albums/5908273281138928945?authkey=CPrM7vCJndy6zwE