soldering problem

[Denis]

hi to everybody. Last week I tried to solder new spade lug on my speaker cable,I have done everything I could the soldering lead didn't want to stick to the wire... Do you have a tip for me ?

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

Clean it up first with alcohol, scrub with metal brush, if possible and use flux.

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

 

[j_garcia]

Yes, my tip is not to solder them. Buy ones that don't require soldering because it really won't make any difference to the sound.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

Soldering over exposed copper makes long term anti-oxidizing protection, as oxidization makes connections go bad

But j_garcia is has a point, you could just order your cables to right length and made professionally for you

 

[j_garcia]

I build my own cables too. Soldering the connectors on speaker wire doesn't benefit you. Gold connectors basically won't oxidize anytime soon and OFC wire will also generally remain oxidation free for years unless they come in contact with something to cause oxidation/corrosion. If you are asking the question of why the two aren't sticking together, then you probalby aren't soldering properly and soldering incorrectly can actually cause some issues. If you don't get both items clean, you can trap oxidation in the solder joint and lose contact inside without even knowing it. A cold solder joint will simply break off or lose contact as well.

 

[highfigh]

hi to everybody. Last week I tried to solder new spade lug on my speaker cable,I have done everything I could the soldering lead didn't want to stick to the wire... Do you have a tip for me ?

You need to be working at the correct temperature, the wire needs to be clean and the wire & terminal need to be hot enough for the solder to flow in by capillary action (called 'wicking'). If the wire has oil or something on it, it won't stick. If it's too hot, that's not good.

 

[j_garcia]

You need to be working at the correct temperature, the wire needs to be clean and the wire & terminal need to be hot enough for the solder to flow in by capillary action (called 'wicking'). If the wire has oil or something on it, it won't stick. If it's too hot, that's not good.

It is called "heating the work". If you can't heat each piece to the point where the solder flows onto it (too small a wattage of iron, large pieces), then it won't properly stick. If you heat the wire too much there is the chance of melting the jacket and it can also be tricky because the solder will continute to wick up the strands. If you insist on doing it, start by getting some solder started on the wire and on the connector individually first and then put them together and heat them until they attach, adding additional solder to create the connection.

 

[lsiberian]

What iron are you using 40 watts would be a good minimum?

 

[highfigh]

It is called "heating the work". If you can't heat each piece to the point where the solder flows onto it (too small a wattage of iron, large pieces), then it won't properly stick. If you heat the wire too much there is the chance of melting the jacket and it can also be tricky because the solder will continute to wick up the strands. If you insist on doing it, start by getting some solder started on the wire and on the connector individually first and then put them together and heat them until they attach, adding additional solder to create the connection.

Why are you replying to me and not the OP?

 

[j_garcia]

Why are you replying to me and not the OP?

Info was intended for the OP

 

[Loren42]

hi to everybody. Last week I tried to solder new spade lug on my speaker cable,I have done everything I could the soldering lead didn't want to stick to the wire... Do you have a tip for me ?

Radio Shack sells a Rosin Soldering Flux. Just dip the wire in a small amount of the flux and it should easily tin.

 

[highfigh]

Info was intended for the OP

Okey-dokey.

 

[j_garcia]

Radio Shack sells a Rosin Soldering Flux. Just dip the wire in a small amount of the flux and it should easily tin.

Flux is just a cleaner. It basically inhibits oxides from forming while soldering, but it won't necessarilly make the solder bond to the wire if insufficient heat is the problem. They also make rosin core solder that has the flux in it already. If the wire is dirty, flux will help, but if heat is the issue it won't make much difference.

 

[Loren42]

Flux is just a cleaner. It basically inhibits oxides from forming while soldering, but it won't necessarilly make the solder bond to the wire if insufficient heat is the problem. They also make rosin core solder that has the flux in it already. If the wire is dirty, flux will help, but if heat is the issue it won't make much difference.

True, but the original poster wanted a tip to solder wire to a spade lug. I guess we could go into minutia of detail on how to solder a joint, but generally, flux is a good crutch for novice, amateur, and pro alike.

There was already enough posts about heat anyway, so no need for me to repeat it.

And... actually, flux does make bonding a wire easier when heat is an issue. Rosin flux helps conduct heat from the iron tip to the joint much more effectively than simple mechanical contact between tip and joint alone.

 

[pixie4]

Loren42 is right, use flux to prepare and clean the two surfaces.
Then ensure your iron is good enough to generate the right amount of heat as lsiberian says. You could try a little sanding of the spot you are going to solder, but try not to overdo it as it removes the plating.

You can do damage to a connector when using excessive heat - if you are going to have to change the iron, get flux and possibly learn to solder - rather spend the money in buying a ready made cable, or buy the non-solder connectors.

 

[TLS Guy]

I have found a good pictorial guide for you.

Basically it is how I do it.

The pieces to be soldered must be clean. I like a hot iron, I use a 60 watt Weller.

I don't like lead free solder at all. You can still get leaded solder. Use the resin core variety. You should not use any added flux, other than what is in the resin core of the solder for electrical work, or you will get wire corrosion.

Now heat the first part to be soldered with a little solder on the tip of the iron. Then bring the solder to the part. It should be hot enough that it melts the solder right away and the solder should instantly flow over the part.

Repeat this with the other part to be soldered.

Now bring the parts together and apply the iron until the solder flows over both parts.

Remove the iron and hold still until the solder solidifies.

The solder union should be smooth and shiny.

 

[highfigh]

Another thing to consider is whether the heat will damage the component(s) closest to the new solder joint. Transistors, diodes and small caps/resistors can be, so it's a good idea to place an alligator clip from a test lead close to where the joint is being made so it can act as a heat sink.

A 60W iron is pretty hot for small components and since not all solder has the same melting point, it's best to find the solder that has a low melting point and if possible, eutectic solder may be preferable. The really thin solder can be melted with a 15W iron and the large diameter type should be avoided unless it's for soldering a large wire, shielding or the case on a multi-segment capacitor to an amp chassis- that's best done with a soldering gun or a large tinning iron for sheet metal work.

 

[Loren42]

You should not use any added flux, other than what is in the resin core of the solder for electrical work, or you will get wire corrosion.

I think I get what you meant to say, but it would have been more accurate to say never use acid based flux for electronics!

Adding additional rosin based flux is not a problem, other than the sticky mess it can leave. Acetone or alcohol removes rosin based flux easily.

Anyway, we have beat this one to death.

 

[Alex2507]

I found this really helpful for soldering instructions.

 

[pixie4]

Some good tips in this article, thanks @Alex2507.

He really takes time in explaining the method.