Small subwoofer design

[robot]

I'm trying to design a small subwoofer for under my computer desk.

I'm thinking about using the Dayton RSS210HF-4 8" Reference driver and a 200w plate amp. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-456&ctab=1#Tabs

Any thoughts about this driver?

I've been trying to do some modeling with WinISD and WinISD Pro but that hasn't been going so well. WinISD suggests a port 4 inches wide by 400 inches long and Pro flat out refuses to accept my parameters. Can't view the help files because I have Windows 7.

Any help and comments would be appreciated. thanks.

 

[annunaki]

I would not consider that a "small enclosure" driver. It does best in upwards of 2.0ft^3 or more vented.

Look to the JL Audio 8w1v2 if you want a small enclosure vented woofer. Once can go as small as around 1.0ft^3 vented there. It depends upon what you want this system to do as well.

What do you expect from the sub?

How deep should it play to meet your expectations?

What type of output levels are you expecting here?

What is the budget you are looking at as well?

 

[MStrickland1988]

Those drivers are great for the money. I have the 15" and I like it a lot. 2 cubic feet isn't considered small? Since when?

 

[annunaki]

Most people do not consider 2.0ft^3 small. DIY'ers do but that it is about it.

 

[robot]

2 cubic feet is doable for me. I don't know if I would want to go a whole lot larger than that though. The sub will be going under my computer desk in my room. It will be paired with the "Overnight Sensations" currently in progress and will mostly be used for music, but I do watch movies on my computer as well. I would like really nice, tight, musical, and controlled bass and super low extension is not as important. I don't really want to spend more than $300 but I have been known to get carried away.

annunaki which TS parameter indicates that a driver will need a big enclosure?

 

[annunaki]

2 cubic feet is doable for me. I don't know if I would want to go a whole lot larger than that though. The sub will be going under my computer desk in my room. It will be paired with the "Overnight Sensations" currently in progress and will mostly be used for music, but I do watch movies on my computer as well. I would like really nice, tight, musical, and controlled bass and super low extension is not as important. I don't really want to spend more than $300 but I have been known to get carried away.

annunaki which TS parameter indicates that a driver will need a big enclosure?

Typically if the VAS is real high it will require a bit more volume. However, the Q of the driver plays an important part as do others. The best bet is to find a few quality, linear drivers that may suit your needs (and budget) and simply model few to see how they will do with the constraints that you have.

I know that the 10w1v2 can be done vented under 2.0ft^3 while tuning to 24hz-27hz or so.

 

[robot]

The JL line definitely seems really good. I think I'm going to end up trying the Dayton though.

I'm able to use a Windows XP computer so I got WinISD Pro working. It seems to be recommending 3.26 cubic foot box with a tuning frequency of 20 Hz. That seems very low. Did I screw something up?

Here is a screenshot:

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/8288/1265167618101.jpg

 

[WmAx]

The best 8" driver for your purpose will be the CSS TRIO 8". It is the most robust 8 before you get to the serious end of things (W7 8" or Sound Splinter RL-i 8[TC Sounds TC9 based]).

I would not bother with the lower end JLs under the W7 ; they are not even similar in performance to the W7. The CSS is technically the best thing for your purposes; It has more linear excursion and good thermal handling as compared to anything else around it's price range($85).

http://www.creativesound.ca/products.php?make=CSS

-Chris

 

[lsiberian]

The best 8" driver for your purpose will be the CSS TRIO 8". It is the most robust 8 before you get to the serious end of things (W7 8" or Sound Splinter RL-i 8[TC Sounds TC9 based]).

I would not bother with the lower end JLs under the W7 ; they are not even similar in performance to the W7. The CSS is technically the best thing for your purposes; It has more linear excursion and good thermal handling as compared to anything else around it's price range($85).

http://www.creativesound.ca/products.php?make=CSS

-Chris

On that note I suggest

http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/Quartet8_Subwoofer_Kit.pdf

It comes with everything and has many satisfied customers. Just line the backwall with 4" rockwool and you are golden.

 

[robot]

The best 8" driver for your purpose will be the CSS TRIO 8". It is the most robust 8 before you get to the serious end of things (W7 8" or Sound Splinter RL-i 8[TC Sounds TC9 based]).

That's a really nice 8"!! Seems like an incredible deal at only $85. I would definitely use that if I hadn't already ordered the Dayton. For the Trio WinISD suggests to me a 1.045 ft.^3 box with a tuning frequency of 28 Hz. Which is pretty much exactly what I had in mind to start with but oh well. Looks like I'll be getting 20 Hz instead (assuming I didn't screw up the calculations).

 

[robot]

So I just realized that WinISD says I will be way past xmax starting at about 40 watts. Bassbox Pro says the same thing.

Here is a plot with 210 watts input:

What is wrong?

 

[annunaki]

So I just realized that WinISD says I will be way past xmax starting at about 40 watts. Bassbox Pro says the same thing.

Here is a plot with 210 watts input:

What is wrong?

Up your tuning frequency, add an infrasonic filter, and make the enclosure smaller. You should be able to tame this within the xmax + 10% range.