Sealing a speaker box.

[lsiberian]

Sealing gaps and filling holes.

I know Bondo is used to fill holes. I've not seen a product called Bondo at our local hardware store, but I assume it's the same as wood filer.

I was thinking of using a vinyl or acrylic caulk to seal the seams. It's my first ever box and it's not exactly perfect. I was hoping that would provide a more air tight seal. I plan to treat the back with polyfill and then the backhalf of the sides and top bottom. I can change it out once I get rock wook for my subs. though i probably won't.

If you guys have better suggestions let me know. I must say that an orbital sander is a very nice tool for the gluing phase. And the speaker jig does a nice job. Though it does have quirks.

 

[Swerd]

Yes, use caulk to seal any gaps along the seams of the cabinet. If your wood cuts are precise enough , wood glue and clamps are enough. Some people use polyurethane glue (like Gorilla glue) to fill gaps because it expands as it sets.

Look for Bondo at an auto supply store. It is a polyester resin putty, and is not exactly the same as wood filler. Its easy to use and when it dries, it is easily sanded.

 

[alexwakelin]

I use DAP acrylic caulk to seal the inside of the box. Wal-mart sells it in an aerosol can, which is nice, you don't need to mess around with a caulking gun. Bondo, wood filler and even spackle all work for filling gaps on the outside. I find wood filler a bit difficult to work with.

The can looks like this:

 

[annunaki]

Properly designed/executed enclosures should not need to be sealed up. They should be sealed during the construction process at all of the joints.

If the cuts are not extremely straight and you are worried, Liquid Nails works very well as it helps to fill gaps being a bit thicker of a substance. It bonds about as well as wood glue. It begins to dry quickly so you will want to with wood glue, but it does not cause one to rush.

 

[ErinH]

honestly, if your cuts are good, all you need is silicone. furthermore, just about anything you can buy at lowe's as a caulk/sealant will do the job.

 

[j_garcia]

I like Liquid Nails. That stuff is great. I still RTV around all of the inside corners.

 

[highfigh]

Sealing gaps and filling holes.

I know Bondo is used to fill holes. I've not seen a product called Bondo at our local hardware store, but I assume it's the same as wood filer.

I was thinking of using a vinyl or acrylic caulk to seal the seams. It's my first ever box and it's not exactly perfect. I was hoping that would provide a more air tight seal. I plan to treat the back with polyfill and then the backhalf of the sides and top bottom. I can change it out once I get rock wool for my subs. though i probably won't.

If you guys have better suggestions let me know. I must say that an orbital sander is a very nice tool for the gluing phase. And the speaker jig does a nice job. Though it does have quirks.

Home Depot and other big box stores sell Bondo in gallons because it is such a great wood filler. It's with the rest of teh glues and usually across from the caulk.

The DAP caulk works well. I usually use PolySeamseal but have used a lot of both with good results as long as the glue joints are good, preferably with some kind of mechanical fastener like screws, nails or staples.

 

[highfigh]

Properly designed/executed enclosures should not need to be sealed up. They should be sealed during the construction process at all of the joints.

If the cuts are not extremely straight and you are worried, Liquid Nails works very well as it helps to fill gaps being a bit thicker of a substance. It bonds about as well as wood glue. It begins to dry quickly so you will want to with wood glue, but it does not cause one to rush.

Even CNC cut boxes are sealed. Whose equipment is so accurate that sealing is unnecessary? Let's be practical here.

 

[lsiberian]

Properly designed/executed enclosures should not need to be sealed up. They should be sealed during the construction process at all of the joints.

If the cuts are not extremely straight and you are worried, Liquid Nails works very well as it helps to fill gaps being a bit thicker of a substance. It bonds about as well as wood glue. It begins to dry quickly so you will want to with wood glue, but it does not cause one to rush.

These are my first speaker boxes. I'm learning the value of many things. But my corners are a bit messed up on the box. So I'm needed to seal and bondo them.

I used titebond for the glue, but I want to make sure air won't get out

 

[lsiberian]

honestly, if your cuts are good, all you need is silicone. furthermore, just about anything you can buy at lowe's as a caulk/sealant will do the job.

I've had to chisel and sand a little bit. I used a circular saw for the cuts and a couple of them were messed up. I wouldn't call my cutting good. But maybe after doing enough wood working I will get to be good at it. We all start somewhere.

 

[lsiberian]

Thanks for the suggestions. I hadn't realized bondo was sold by the bucket. I don't know if i want to keep a bucket around. Also I prefer caulk since i'm trying to seal the joints. and I'm not a big fan of spraying anything if I can avoid it. I do my work out doors and wind can cause problems with sprayed materials.

Titebond is awesome FYI. I love that glue.

 

[sawzalot]

These are my first speaker boxes. I'm learning the value of many things. But my corners are a bit messed up on the box. So I'm needed to seal and bondo them.

I used titebond for the glue, but I want to make sure air won't get out

smaller cans of bondo w/hardner additive are available at all auto part stores,when using bondo only mix a little bit at a time unless you are going to work super fast cause it gets hard very fast.

 

[lsiberian]

smaller cans of bondo w/hardner additive are available at all auto part stores,when using bondo only mix a little bit at a time unless you are going to work super fast cause it gets hard very fast.

I found some spackle tonight so I think I will try that. I had hoped for bondo, but Target has none and that was were my night ended up spent. I figure it will be good enough.

 

[Haoleb]

Even CNC cut boxes are sealed. Whose equipment is so accurate that sealing is unnecessary? Let's be practical here.

Most of the time what your seeing isint a sealer its just the glue they use to put it together since everything is cut and then sort of just folded together.

Properly cut and glued seams will be sealed although its much easier to just add an extra layer of protection for the hell of it. If you have some crevices in your seams then bondo will probably be your best bet because it makes a permanent, non flexible bond with the material that can then be sanded and painted. There are two types, one thats made for wood and one that made for automotive uses. Either will work, the automotive is a little easier to work with though because the catalyst is red so its easier to see if youve mixed enough in vs the wood which is white

 

[lsiberian]

Most of the time what your seeing isint a sealer its just the glue they use to put it together since everything is cut and then sort of just folded together.

Properly cut and glued seams will be sealed although its much easier to just add an extra layer of protection for the hell of it. If you have some crevices in your seams then bondo will probably be your best bet because it makes a permanent, non flexible bond with the material that can then be sanded and painted. There are two types, one thats made for wood and one that made for automotive uses. Either will work, the automotive is a little easier to work with though because the catalyst is red so its easier to see if youve mixed enough in vs the wood which is white

The spackle I got turns white when dried.

I am really just airing on the side of caution and I need to patch up the plywood seams for painting anyway.

 

[annunaki]

If there are still gaps & such after the enclosure is assembled, one may want to try a new enclosure.

All of the panels should fit snugly together. This is where a liquid nails solution is suggested as the enclosure adhesive. Because it is a thicker substance it can fill in minor variations in the surfaces while maintaining the enclosure strength.

I would highly recommend any first timer (especially if cutting their own wood) use Liquid Nails.

Wood glue is for CNC & accurate cuts where slight variations in the joining surfaces are extremely rare. In my opinion anyway...

 

[Alex2507]

I found some spackle tonight so I think I will try that. I had hoped for bondo, but Target has none and that was were my night ended up spent. I figure it will be good enough.

I just caught this one post and wanted to caution against using Spackle in any speaker. I didn't do any laboratory testing but I suspect that it might turn to dust under vibration. Even under Formica, Bondo is used.

Just my 2 cents but you've been warned.

 

[alexwakelin]

I just caught this one post and wanted to caution against using Spackle in any speaker. I didn't do any laboratory testing but I suspect that it might turn to dust under vibration. Even under Formica, Bondo is used.

Just my 2 cents but you've been warned.

I recall seeing some builds at the PE forum that used spackle to fill gaps. I used some in my Kappa Perfect 12 build with no problems (yet). A properly built cabinet shouldn't vibrate much though, right?

 

[sawzalot]

I just caught this one post and wanted to caution against using Spackle in any speaker. I didn't do any laboratory testing but I suspect that it might turn to dust under vibration. Even under Formica, Bondo is used.

Just my 2 cents but you've been warned.

I agree I feel as though the spackle just won't hold up well under normal use the bondo would be better and if not that just smear in some caulk smooth it out and you can be sure it will stay put.

 

[Alex2507]

A properly built cabinet shouldn't vibrate much though, right?

I guess not.

That's what they say around here but my area of expertise is really Spackle related.

It goes on walls.