Screen choice for Panasonic AX200U

crashkelly

crashkelly

Full Audioholic
Hey all,

Well I am pretty much convinced I will be picking up a Panasonic AX 200U projector but I am unsure what type of screen I should match it up with.

My HT space is about 11'W x 15'L x 7'9" H which is part of a full basement(11W x 38'L x 7'9"H). The viewing distance will be about 11'. I have to go with a 92" pulldown for reasons stated in my other posts. I would love bigger, but the space just will not accept a bigger screen. I have to do a pulldown as the TV must stay for regular viewing as it is our only TV space.

During the day there will be some ambient light, although I am going to do whatever I can to control it. The worst window is right beside where the screen will go and the second worst is directly opposite the screen but approximately 30' away.

I am wondering about the gain of screen I should go for, whether it be 1.0 matte white or a 1.8 Graywolf II, or something in between.

Thanks for the input
Michael
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
Hey all,

Well I am pretty much convinced I will be picking up a Panasonic AX 200U projector but I am unsure what type of screen I should match it up with.

My HT space is about 11'W x 15'L x 7'9" H which is part of a full basement(11W x 38'L x 7'9"H). The viewing distance will be about 11'. I have to go with a 92" pulldown for reasons stated in my other posts. I would love bigger, but the space just will not accept a bigger screen. I have to do a pulldown as the TV must stay for regular viewing as it is our only TV space.

During the day there will be some ambient light, although I am going to do whatever I can to control it. The worst window is right beside where the screen will go and the second worst is directly opposite the screen but approximately 30' away.

I am wondering about the gain of screen I should go for, whether it be 1.0 matte white or a 1.8 Graywolf II, or something in between.

Thanks for the input
Michael
Can you do motorized pull down? That would be best.
As to gain, that would depend or should on the capability of this projector or the next one perhaps, to place the required footLamberts on the screen.
The film standard is 16fL and 12 fL for digital projection. Need to see what yours will do at the projection distance and screen size and allow some lamp age. I would not over do the gain.

You may also want to read this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=773065
 
crashkelly

crashkelly

Full Audioholic
Hey mtrycrafts,

Thanks for the reply. I am most positively going for a motorized screen. Besides the coolness factor when connected to the projector via a 12 volt trigger line, I figure it will save some wear and tear on the screen allowing the motor to "push" the screen down rather than having to pull on it.

Here are a few of the specs on the projector
ANSI lumens: 2000

Contrast (full on/off): 6000:1 with auto-iris

Light Engine: 1280x720, native 16:9, 3x 0.7" PolySi LCD with a 220W UHM lamp.

Video Compatibility: HDTV 1080p/60, 1080p/50, 1080p/24, 1080i, 720p, 576p, 576i, 480p. NTSC/PAL/SECAM.

Data Compatibility: Computer resolutions up to SXGA.

Connection Panel: Two HDMI inputs, one VGA input, one set of component YPbPr inputs, one S-Video input, one composite input, one serial port, one Kensington lock point, hardwired power on/off switch.

Lens and Throw Distance: 2:1 manual zoom/focus lens with manual H/V lens shift. Throws a 100" diagonal 16:9 image from 9.9' to 20.3'
I will have to admit that I am a total noob when it comes to projectors and screens. I thought I would be doing this, purchasing a projector/screen, in about 18 months or so, but I got WAF for it now so I am on it and learning as I go.

I will have to say that you lost me with the footlamberts. I was my understanding that because of the ambient light I have during the day I would need a higher gain screen to counteract it.

As far as thinking about the next projector, it will not be for a few years, say at least 2 but probably more like three, and by that time, from what I understand about pull-down screens, even the motorized kind, by that time it will have started to develop "waves" so it will be time to replace it anyway.

Thanks for the link. I have quickly skimmed it but am going to go back and read it in depth after this post.

Need to see what yours will do at the projection distance and screen size and allow some lamp age.
Is tis something I can calculate or should it be available from the manufacturer?

Thanks again for the info. I have some reading to do. ;)
Cheers
Michael
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
Michael - If you are going to use a motorized screen, you 100% want that motorized screen to be tab-tensioned. Otherwise you are just paying more to get the same screen wrikles that you could get from a manual screen for hundreds of dollars less.

For screen material, a positive gain, non-retroreflective, grey screen is one of the best in a room with varying conditions. Most quality manufacturers off this type of material for motorized tab-tesnioned screens.

Da-Lite: http://www.dalite.com/products/selecting.php
delivers high contrast cinema vision

Draper: http://www.draperinc.com/Screen_Pages/Screen_surface_definitions.htm
does not offer a positive gain grey screen...

If given those choice between grey (negative gain) and white (positive gain) I would recommend the white, positive gain screen. The grey screens really enhance projectors that are sorely lacking in contrast, color punch, and black levels. With today's LCD/DLP/LCoS projectors, it simply isn't an issue really. They can be slightly enhanced, but it is far more important to get a boost in overall light output through positive gain which then reflects in broader usability of the room in ambient light conditions.

One thing that is SERIOUSLY done poorly by builders and homeowners is that they ignore the lighting in the room.

The actual lights you put in the room is what determines how usable the projector and screen will be under varied conditions. You want to go with lots of smaller direction lights instead of one or two bright, full coverage lights.

http://www.avintegrated.com/lighting.html shows some examples of what halfway decently designed lighting can allow for in a room... Hundreds of watts of lighting to live by, while still having excellent image quality.

So, in order, I would use:
1. Positive gain, grey screen - NOT retroreflective (ala Greywolf)
2. Positive gain screen (1.3-1.5 gain, no more)
3. Grey screen

I personally have a .8 gain grey screen and, yes, it's at the bottom of my list. I would trade it for a 1.3 gain screen in a second, but there's a certain price involved in the type of screen I've got which makes it a bit cost prohibitive. :)
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
And, if you are handy:D you can make a nice box for it:

 
crashkelly

crashkelly

Full Audioholic
mtrycrafts: Very nice. I am handy so something like that might just be on the project list, after I am done the work on my HT space and basement. I am already starting to get "the look" from the wife :eek:

BMXTRIX: Thanks for the input. I am still reading and digesting the wealth of info you provided. I will respond soon.

Thanks again
Michael
 
majorloser

majorloser

Moderator
You definitely want a grey screen. You seem to have lighting under control which is one of the biggest issues. The grey screen will give you a little better black levels and contrast. These are worth far more to a better quality picture then lumens or brightness.
 
crashkelly

crashkelly

Full Audioholic
You definitely want a grey screen. You seem to have lighting under control which is one of the biggest issues. The grey screen will give you a little better black levels and contrast. These are worth far more to a better quality picture then lumens or brightness.
Thanks for the input majorloser.

When you speak of grey screen you are refering to the same type as BMXTRIX correct? Not something like the GrayWolf II (1.8 gain) I previously mentioned.

I have been looking at the tab-tensioned positive gain non-retroreflective greay screens and they are quite a bit out of my price range, even at 92". Prices were/are $2K - $3K which is double my original budget for both projector and screen. Of course my budget has changed and I would like to get both for $2K or under (I have set aside $1300US for the Panny AX200U)

I do understand/know of the issues with pull-downs and waves developing, but the price of a tab-tensioned screen will have me at 92" for a number years (thinking about if I move in the next couple of years and I already have WAF to pick a house with dedicated HT space :D)

I can pick up the above, 92" motorized GrayWolf II, for about $400CDN delivered. Would this screen be that bad in the interim?

Thanks
Michael
 
majorloser

majorloser

Moderator
I'm using a fixed Stewart Luxus Deluxe Screenwall with Firehawk material. My projector is an older Optoma HD78-DC3 which is a DLP projector. The Firehawk material is a 1.25 gain screen. It's great for areas where you may want a little controlled ambient light, which most people want when they're watching sports or HD television. During movies you would obviously want all the lights out for that "movie theater feel". They also offer a Greyhawk material that is like the Greywolf you mentioned.

Now, I'll be the first to admit that Stewart screens aren't cheap. But I think they're worth the extra money. They offer some nice tab-tensioned screens that would fit your bill, just don't get sticker shocked. You could probably buy four Panny projectors for the price of one screen. :(
 
crashkelly

crashkelly

Full Audioholic
I'm using a fixed Stewart Luxus Deluxe Screenwall with Firehawk material. My projector is an older Optoma HD78-DC3 which is a DLP projector. The Firehawk material is a 1.25 gain screen. It's great for areas where you may want a little controlled ambient light, which most people want when they're watching sports or HD television. During movies you would obviously want all the lights out for that "movie theater feel". They also offer a Greyhawk material that is like the Greywolf you mentioned.

Now, I'll be the first to admit that Stewart screens aren't cheap. But I think they're worth the extra money. They offer some nice tab-tensioned screens that would fit your bill, just don't get sticker shocked. You could probably buy four Panny projectors for the price of one screen. :(
Thanks for the info. Looked at their screens and they are very nice. Didn't get sticker shock as I have been looking at similarly priced screens for a couple of days now, but I can say that they are out of my price range, at least for now.

Really not sure where to go. I am still looking at some of the info BMXTRIX provided and looking at what will work and what probably won't. Unfortunately, what will work the best seems to be a little on the high side for price. Have to refill my HT bucket after this summer's basement and HT renos and the purchase of a 7.1 system.

Tough call as I have the WAF for the projector/screen but the looks are coming as I discuss with her why the $999 package from Costco won't work in our space. I even got the hand on the hip once :eek: I shut-up and went downstairs and did some renos work as quickly as possible.

Still looking........

Thanks
Michael
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
Michael, I can tell you that with my setup, I had a pull down 106" screen that dropped in front of my plasma on the wall. But, because I planned ahead, I had wired for an in-ceiling screen for 'some future date' as money allowed.

Low and behold - up on eBay popped a 106" in-ceiling tab-tensioned screen. It's Draper's top of the line, and for $700 I had it delivered to my front door!

There are some cheap options on eBay for tab-tensioned screens, but every now and then a Draper or DaLite will pop up which is a great value. Realistically, .8 grey, 1.0 matte white, or 1.4 gain white aren't going to be huge factors with a nice bright projector like the AX200. These screens really are very subtle overall when you have a better projector like this.
 
crashkelly

crashkelly

Full Audioholic
Michael, I can tell you that with my setup, I had a pull down 106" screen that dropped in front of my plasma on the wall. But, because I planned ahead, I had wired for an in-ceiling screen for 'some future date' as money allowed.

Low and behold - up on eBay popped a 106" in-ceiling tab-tensioned screen. It's Draper's top of the line, and for $700 I had it delivered to my front door!

There are some cheap options on eBay for tab-tensioned screens, but every now and then a Draper or DaLite will pop up which is a great value. Realistically, .8 grey, 1.0 matte white, or 1.4 gain white aren't going to be huge factors with a nice bright projector like the AX200. These screens really are very subtle overall when you have a better projector like this.
Thanks.

I have also prewired for a motorized screen, same circuit as the projector (dedicated for the 2 pieces of equipent) In-ceiling not really an option due to ceiling height and soon to be installed drop (T-bar) ceiling.

I think that I am going to go for a cheap pull-down for the interim and just start saving my pennies for a good positive gain, gray, tab-tensioned screen. I can pick up a 92" pulldown for about $200 and that will just have to do me for a bit, say a year, unless I find a sweet deal on e-bay as you did.

Projector will be ordered shortly, just waiting for a response from a fellow Canuck on duty, if any, and any other extra charges.

Thanks for all your help on this BMXTRIX. Your input, as well as the input from the other respondents, is greatly appriciated.

Cheers
Michael
 
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