Reciever Calibration, and wire gauge

[Dunderbeck]

Hi,
I'm finally getting my system to a point where it will be up soon, just ordered 2 subs, my receiver is out of the box (haven't connected everything yet), have a bunch of cords hdmi and speaker wire, TV's on the wall, and the room is still a little messy, but less so (still stuff in moving boxes). I have some basic questions before I crack open the reciever instruction manual, start stripping wire, and pinning it to the wall.

Here's what I have:
Onkyo tx nr808 (it was recommended on this forum)
Mirage M-290 fronts on stands
Mirage OM-C3 center
Atlantic Technologies 254 SR
ordered: 2 PSB 5i subs

Eventually I'll want to put two speakers in the kitchen that I can turn on and off, but that's for tomorrow.

MY QUESTIONS:
1. The guy who sold me the speakers told me that 12 gauge was the best, but I didn't need to use it for everything, but I've met many who like smaller gauges more. I got 200ft of 12 from a monoprice is it OK to use it for my speakers, or is another size really better, and if so why?

2. I know I have to put the Receiver microphone on a tripod in the middle of the room, once the speakers are set up, and do the calibration. If the speakers move or I replace something I must recalibrate. The room still has some filled boxes from a move, and clutter in it. Must I recalibrate each time I clean some stuff up or unpack some boxes (there are still quite a few)? Also, must the tripod mounted mic be in the center of the room or the center of the 5.1 set up? There is some extra room space to the right of the surround set up area. Do I put it in room center or the middle of the speaker circle? Also if my chair is in the center can I move it for calibration, or is it better to move the mic a bit?

3. Pins: I have metal pins where a straw like middle unscrews, and you place the speaker wire in the straw, and screw the pin cap back over it. I got it at Monoprice, and it's straight not banana shaped. Must the copper wires just touch the top of the cap under the pin, or must they be wound around the screw like straw part? I hope I'm describing this right. I don't have a smart phone right now, and don't know how to get photo's on here.

4. Any placement advice? Should the towers face the middle, and be further front than the center? How high the center? How far apart should the subs be? Anything else?

5. Before calibration my 290s seem quieter than the center. I know that will change after calibration, but there is a part of me that wants towers instead of bookshelves on stands. I know these are very good speakers though. Do they have any advantage over towers? If I got Mirage towers I might use these for the kitchen. What should I look for in a replacement Mirage tower if I see it on craigslist or something, something that won't need an amp. I don't want too much base, but I do want that theater feeling, but still, more crisp than reverb.

Thanks

 

[fuzz092888]

1. 12 gauge is the best for longer runs, and it will work fine for shorter runs, but isn't necessary. Thinner wire is generally easier to manipulate and handle which is why some guys like it, but if your run is long (usually >40-50 ft) then 12 gauge is needed.

2. The microphone doesn't go in the middle of the room, it goes at ear height of the "sweet spot" listening position (which is usually the center seat of your setup front row) and then gets moved to additional seating positions from there, always at ear height. Basically whoever your ears will be is where the mic should go, sweet spot first. I would say get the room cleared out of clutter before running it, they will certainly affect the way the sound bounces around.

3. I think I'm understanding you, when you unscrew the cap the top of the "straw" should have a little bit of a flared top. what you want to do is spread the wire out a little so that it touches all of the flared part. Monoprice has a video right on their website on how to install banana plugs. You should go back there and watch the video.

4. The towers should be equidistant from each other and equidistant from the center. You will have to experiment for yourself with toe in and distance from the front wall. The center can go above the tv, below the tv, it doesn't really matter. Either way you'll probably have to angle up or down thats personal preference.

5. I think you're mistaking bass for BASS. Real authentic bass is tight and felt more than boomy and what most people think of as bass. If you get good speakers the bass will sound more like what you're describing. Towers should have more bass, but other than that I'm not familiar with mirage speakers enough to say definitively how they will differ. More frequency range extension is usually more of a tower thing than a bookshelf thing.

 

[agarwalro]

Audyssey recommended microphone placement locations,

Here is an AH article on optimal speake placement.

 

[Scumfrog]

I like auto cal devices on modern AVRs. After using that function, relax and enjoy some movies and music. In other words, live with it as is for a bit. After clearing out more boxes, recalibrate and do the same. If you have the time and inclination, use a Radio Shack sound presssure meter to fine tune the levels. I did just that and remain quite happy with the result. Trust me I am not an audio engineer. If I can do it, you can do it-probably better! Please trust your ears and enjoy.
Good listening!
Mike

 

[Dunderbeck]

Thanks, It may take a week or two to get stuff together, and I think I'll have to set stuff up, and then clean up more, and recalibrate again. I will keep you aprised.

Do you think bipolar front tower speakers are better than regular book shelfs? I might get some cheap ones I found that match the brand and time period.

 

[Scumfrog]

Ive heard both types and tend to enjoy direct radiators over bipolars But thats just me. Many people love their bipolars or bipolar rears. They sound great and good for them. My suggestion is to visit your favorite audio shop and listen the their very best system. Maybe you can't afford it, but after listening, you will have a better idea of your gears weaknesses and strenghths. This will lead to better and possibly less spending as oppsed to just guessing. I do this myself and my favorite retailer is just fine with it-encouraging me to take my time. I suggest you do the same. Demos and close-outs may make great economic sense too. I hope this helps.
Good listening,
Mike

 

[Grador]

To emphasize Mike's point I've had both bipolar's and direct radiating rears in various setups and found the bipolar's to sound better. I've found direct radiators to be to localizable. That said I've heard various direct radiating speakers that were fantastic, and bipolars that were terrible with respect to sound field. You really need to go and listen for yourself.

 

[CaliMon]

I agree with the above about bipolars, but with the exception that there seems to be something about the overall quality of the speakers and the drivers that plays a larger role in overall sound. Bipolars are going to charge the room with more volume capacity (all other things being equal) and that definently helps them to appear to 'sound' better. But when you get into high quality units it seems to be less of a factor.

Think about high end systems, they are almost all monopole speakers with only a few exceptions. They must know something, or all their speakers would be bipolar wouldn't they. High sound quality is the final goal after all.

That being said; I do like the sound of bipoles very much and they do add something to the sound. Or maybe they project more of the recorded sound. Whatever the case it really just comes down to the tastes of the listener doesn't it?