Question Re Perlisten On Wall Frame Kits for In-Wall Speakers

M

Mr._Clark

Audioholic Samurai
In his video discussion of Perlisten in-wall speakers, Mathew Poes mentions that the Perlisten in-wall speakers have a different crossover design in part because there is no baffle step when the in-wall speakers are installed in-wall.


Perlisten sells on-wall frame kits:


The question is how much of a baffle step does the on wall frame kit create? In other words, should the crossovers be tweaked to account for the on-wall mount vs in-wall mount?

The reason I ask is that I'm considering replacing the in-wall speakers in my living room system:

1727568694681.png


The upright structures on either side of the fireplace and TV are about 18 inches wide, which creates a baffle step, at least to some extent.

The upright structures have a layer of drywall on several layers of plywood (probably 4 inches of plywood). Thus, the upright structures appear to be structural and I'm reluctant to cut large openings for large in-wall speakers (e.g. Perlisten S7i-LR).

On-walls will not look great, but I can live with it if the sound is good enough.

Worst case scenario I can cut openings and reinforce the upright structures, so in-walls are not out of the question.

Personally, I think a pair of Perlisten S7t towers look great in front of the upright structures, but I doubt I can talk the wife into it (that was tongue-in-cheek, I'm not wild about the appearance of towers in this location)

And, if anyone is wondering, I've tested the temperature in the cabinet by the TV when using the fireplace and it's never gone above 93 degrees. Not ideal, but so far all of my TVs have become obsolete before they failed.
 
M

Mr._Clark

Audioholic Samurai
FWIW, here's the other side of my living room:

1727570919911.png


The only thing that is perhaps notable is the lack of "real" surround speakers. The ceiling speakers are wired as surrounds, but they are not effective (this was how the house was set up when I bought it)

I just ordered a pair of Philharmonic ceramic mini monitors that I'm planning to use for the rear surrounds. I'm anxious to hear these speakers. I bought a pair of SVS Ultra bookshelves a couple years ago, but the sound was not quite right, at least to my ear. They seem to test reasonably well, and I'm not sure exactly what is "off" in the sound (I'll refrain from using bizarre audiospeak terms to hide the fact that I can't pinpoint the issue).
 
DigitalDawn

DigitalDawn

Senior Audioholic
Triad also changes the crossover for many of their InWall and InCeiling speakers vs their InRoom models. Triad designs their InRoom, InWall, OnWall and InCeiling speakers within a series, to sound the same.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
In his video discussion of Perlisten in-wall speakers, Mathew Poes mentions that the Perlisten in-wall speakers have a different crossover design in part because there is no baffle step when the in-wall speakers are installed in-wall.


Perlisten sells on-wall frame kits:


The question is how much of a baffle step does the on wall frame kit create? In other words, should the crossovers be tweaked to account for the on-wall mount vs in-wall mount?

The reason I ask is that I'm considering replacing the in-wall speakers in my living room system:

View attachment 69711

The upright structures on either side of the fireplace and TV are about 18 inches wide, which creates a baffle step, at least to some extent.

The upright structures have a layer of drywall on several layers of plywood (probably 4 inches of plywood). Thus, the upright structures appear to be structural and I'm reluctant to cut large openings for large in-wall speakers (e.g. Perlisten S7i-LR).

On-walls will not look great, but I can live with it if the sound is good enough.

Worst case scenario I can cut openings and reinforce the upright structures, so in-walls are not out of the question.

Personally, I think a pair of Perlisten S7t towers look great in front of the upright structures, but I doubt I can talk the wife into it (that was tongue-in-cheek, I'm not wild about the appearance of towers in this location)

And, if anyone is wondering, I've tested the temperature in the cabinet by the TV when using the fireplace and it's never gone above 93 degrees. Not ideal, but so far all of my TVs have become obsolete before they failed.
Yes, you have changed the transition frequency. However your arrangement is not a flat wall, so you may have to do measurements.

A flat wall does not require BSC as there is only forward sound radiation, and so no transition to half/full space radiation, only forward radiation.

This is the simple formula to calculate the transition frequency.

f3 = 115 / WB(where WB is the baffle width in meters)

f3 = 380 / WB(where WB is the baffle width in feet)
 
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