There are several different configurations that all get lumped together under the category of bi-amping:
1. One amp per speaker. You need two external amps - one to drive the left speaker and one to drive the right speaker. The potential advantage is that you now have a separate amp for each of the left and right channels and each has its own power supply rather than sharing the power supply of the receiver. This is not bi-amping in the true sense because you can accomplish the same thing using only 1 2 channel amp instead of 2 monoblocks (1 channel amps).
2. True bi-amping is actually using a separate amp for the tweeter and woofer. If you are using a receiver with pre-outs, you would have to use a Y splitter to split the single (left or right) channel into two so you can feed the two independent amps. The flaw in this approach is that each amp channel will still get a full range signal and the speaker's xovers will still have to separate out the frequencies - so you haven't really accomplished the goal of separate power to each driver. The only way this can be beneficial is if you instead use an active xover before the speaker so that each driver gets only the frequencies it can reproduce.
Using A+B on a receiver does neither of the two approaches above. How would you wire it? You can't achieve the goal of separate amplification for the woofer and tweeter because you would have to choose which channel is the tweeter and which channel is the woofer. Say you choose A for the Left speaker, then you choose the Left channel fof A or the tweeter and the Right channel of A for the woofer. Then you use B in the same way for the right speaker. Besides the fact that you would only hear the highs from the left channel and the lows from the right channel, which is bad enough, you have the exact same case as bi-amping with separate amps - each driver still gets a full range signal and has to split it out with its own xover.
Don't even think about using both A and B for both speakers.
Now if you want to use 4 speakers for the front and wire them normally with one pair on A and one pair on B that's fine, but A+B puts them in parallel and cuts the impedance in half, making them much harder to drive.