Power consumption vs App Wattage rating

T

TLCole425

Enthusiast
OK What gives? How can an App using a power consumption of 490 Watts put out 140 Watts per channel X7?

I am getting either the Yahmaha RX-A3010 or the Marantz SR7005. Both claim descrete apps per channel, this is a must for me. Also both have the other features I am looking for. However both seem to be playing with numbers a bit.
Looking into the Owners manuals I find the following information.

App Power watage comsumption / Channels = watts per channel.

Yamaha RX-A3010 490 /7 = 70 rated at 140 watts?

Marantz SR7005 700 /7 = 100 Rated at 125 watts?

So, will I get 140 Watts? Using the same speakers which will be louder? Even though the Marantz is rated at 125 it seems it would be louder based on power consumption.

I wish companie would just be honest.
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
This has come up before, but I haven't found the link that I want. Here's another article on power rating from AH.

I think that it's because the power consumption value is an average based upon typical usage. I didn't download the manuals, so I'm assuming that they don't state that as a maximum power consumption and that they state the speaker ratings as "RMS" power.

Most people don't play their systems loud enough to use an average of 110+ W per channel. You might hit that level during explosions or cymbals crashing, but I believe that capacitors handle quick transients like cymbals. Most of the time, people are using tenths or hundreths of a watt per speaker. Seriously. If a speaker is rated with a sensitivity of 90 dB, that often means that it will output a sound that will be 90 dB at one meter away from the speaker when you apply 1 W to it. A change in 10 dB equates to a change in power of ten times. So, 100 dB would require 10 W, and 80 dB would require 0.1 W. As you move farther away from the speaker, the sound level drops off, so to hit 90 dB at ten feet away, you're using more than 1 W (sorry, I'm too lazy to look the equation up :eek:).

Anyway, it comes down to the two ratings not being apples to apples. While the receiver is stated to be able to play at X Watts per speaker, the power consumption value is for a more typical power draw.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
OK What gives? How can an App using a power consumption of 490 Watts put out 140 Watts per channel X7?

I am getting either the Yahmaha RX-A3010 or the Marantz SR7005. Both claim descrete apps per channel, this is a must for me. Also both have the other features I am looking for. However both seem to be playing with numbers a bit.
Looking into the Owners manuals I find the following information.

App Power watage comsumption / Channels = watts per channel.

Yamaha RX-A3010 490 /7 = 70 rated at 140 watts?

Marantz SR7005 700 /7 = 100 Rated at 125 watts?

So, will I get 140 Watts? Using the same speakers which will be louder? Even though the Marantz is rated at 125 it seems it would be louder based on power consumption.

I wish companie would just be honest.
Similar questions have been asked many times. I beleive Gene had cited an existing standard that required (probably on voluntary basis?) the stated power consumptions to be based on something like 2 channel driven at rated + 1/8 or rated power for the remaining channels but please don't quote me on this. Until manufacturers are required to follow some clearly specified standards, I see at least, but not limited to the following issues for consumers.

1. Manufacturers could pick and choose how to specify their power consumption figures. For example, some (such as HK) will specify "maximum power consumption" without defining what that means, so it could well mean at 10% THD.

2. Some will specify two numbers (such as Yamaha), one undefined but you can assume that they follow a standard, while the other "maximum", like HK. Yamaha products often, but not always, specify the THD, such as 10% THD.

3. Some would specify VA instead of watts, the average public do not know the difference. Even for a competent EE, it is hard to compare VA to watt when comparing different amps. A good rule of thumb is probably to discount the VA by approx. 20%, say Watts=0.8XVA but this is just an approximation as the p.f. seen by the P/S at the input varies with many factors.

4. Some of us would resort to rely on lab measurements from reviews such as those by HTM, S&V, HCC etc., but there is also a huge problem due to the advanced of the "protective" circuit built in to most modern AVRs. I can think of the following examples:

a)Some of those system tend to work more aggressively than others. For example, the much heavier Denon AVR-4810 would give very respectful 5 channel driven output but in the HTM 7 channel driven tests the protective circuit would kick in when output exceed a little under 40W (something like that but I am going by memory) while the $1000 cheaper and much lighter 4310 managed over 100W before the protective circuit shut it down.

b)Different lab measurements use different methods and without knowing the details of their test methodologies it is not possible to do a fair comparison. For example, some lab measurements based their "continuous" output tests on a 1 minute of 10 minute tests while some of them don't even specify the duration, so something like "100W all channel driven continuously...." could mean a 10 second tests while others could mean 1 minute.

For real world enjoyment, none of the above may matter but I am commenting on some pitfalls in trying to compare amp specs based soley on their specified "power consumption" and/or trying to comment on their honesty.
 
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walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
490 watts seems a little low to be able to put out 140 watts X 7. My amp which is 350 watts X 6 into 8 ohms uses 2700 watts under nominal condition and 5550 watts under test conditon and it does show on my electric bill.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Adam, also pointed out by others before, "rms power" is really not an accurate/correct term though many manufacturers do use the term in their manuals. "Average" power is in fact the correct term. RMS is the correct term for voltage and current for AC waveforms to calculate the average power. Unlike common English usage, in engineering and science, just because a term gets used often does not make it correct and become acceptable in the science/engineering world.
 
cpp

cpp

Audioholic Ninja
I think it depends on what the amp manufacturer notes in their specs

My SunFire notes these measurements

Power Output (8 ohm, 1kHz)
Front 400W + 400W
Center 400W
Surround 400W
Surround Back 400W
Output at Clipping 800W / Ch at 4 ohms
Maximum Output Voltage 56.6Vrms
Maximum Output Current 120A p-p / Ch
THD < 0.5%
Damping Factor 150
Hum and Noise -118dB, A-weighted
Sensitivity Balanced(for rated output) 0.95Vrms
Sensitivity Unbalanced(for rated output) 1.9Vrms
Power Consumption (120VAC, 50-60Hz) 580W (1/8th power)
 
H

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Using power consumption to base a receiver buying decision is a bad way to try to get the best one. These need to be selected because of their sound quality, feature set/quality, reliability and price.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
... My amp which is 350 watts X 6 into 8 ohms uses 2700 watts under nominal condition and 5550 watts under test conditon and it does show on my electric bill.
WOW. I have everything, well, the audio portion not the projector, on a power box that shows current or voltage, and mine idles at 4A. I need to check when the 2 passive subs are going well, but at the levels I watch movies at I have yet to see many more amps on it; all on 15A and yet to trip. The center amp shows a few watts rarely, yet it is plenty loud.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
WOW. I have everything, well, the audio portion not the projector, on a power box that shows current or voltage, and mine idles at 4A. I need to check when the 2 passive subs are going well, but at the levels I watch movies at I have yet to see many more amps on it; all on 15A and yet to trip. The center amp shows a few watts rarely, yet it is plenty loud.
That's http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_5_1/cinepro3k6.html my amp. I am having problems on my home computer to post the owners manual. I am also running it of a 15 amp breaker. It'll hold to +5 db any more it will trip the breaker, but the amp is not clipping.
Go to amps http://www.cinepro.com/ and check the power consumption, like I said I can't post the link. Amps runs very hot, I would say after 45 minutes you could not put your hands and the heat sinks for more then 10 seconds.
 
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its phillip

its phillip

Audioholic Ninja
Shouldn't you only be able to get 1440W continuous from a 15A line? Either way, that amp looks super powerful :D
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
That's http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_5_1/cinepro3k6.html my amp. I am having problems on my home computer to post the owners manual. I am also running it of a 15 amp breaker. It'll hold to +5 db any more it will trip the breaker, but the amp is not clipping.
Go to amps http://www.cinepro.com/ and check the power consumption, like I said I can't post the link. Amps runs very hot, I would say after 45 minutes you could not put your hands and the heat sinks for more then 10 seconds.
Yes, that is a very impressive amp indeed. Do you have one of those Kill-A-Watt meters? It would be very interesting to see what it actually consumes under normal listening conditions and at idle.
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
Yes, that is a very impressive amp indeed. Do you have one of those Kill-A-Watt meters? It would be very interesting to see what it actually consumes under normal listening conditions and at idle.
Where can I buy one of those Kill-A-Watt meters. I would be very interested myself.
 
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