plasma break in!

[clouso]

my local dealer told me that break in's are no more needed with most recent plasmas and that i could play games and set it on vivid if i want and that the 2009 panasonic models will not suffer from burn in or IR and if it ever happen the pixel orbiter will do the work!...can i trust him or should i keep the display on low contrast and brightness still..my guess is that i have at least 100 hours done now!..thx.

 

[AVRat]

Are you planning to do any sort of calibration? If so, the phosphors should have some break-in time before doing so. 200 hours of regular viewing should do it. Adam and I provided info in your other thread. Those procedures offer a more uniform break-in. If you're not doing a critical calibration, just minimize static images for the first few hundred hours with settings set at normal viewing settings, NOT VIVID!

 

[FirstReflection]

"Break in" is unnecessary with current plasmas. Like all displays, they will gradually dim over time. And during the first few hundred hours, they will dim proportionally the most (as in, they will drop several lumens in brightness during the first few hundred hours and then be quite stable and slow to dim after that). So if you are paying for a professional calibration, it is worth your while to wait for a few hundred hours of use so that the settings will not need to be changed.

But the whole "break in" process of keeping the set dim and displaying nothing but uniform "break in patterns" is unnecessary. Burn-in virtually never happens anymore. Image retention, on the other hand, is still entirely possible. But the "after-image" disappears on its own after just a few minutes.

So feel free to go ahead and watch movies, TV and play games I wouldn't recommend Vivid Mode, simply because it is an awful picture mode! Just do a simple THX Optimizer calibration to start. And then, after a few hundred hours of use, go ahead and do a more in-depth calibration or bring in the ISF technician

 

[clouso]

"Break in" is unnecessary with current plasmas. Like all displays, they will gradually dim over time. And during the first few hundred hours, they will dim proportionally the most (as in, they will drop several lumens in brightness during the first few hundred hours and then be quite stable and slow to dim after that). So if you are paying for a professional calibration, it is worth your while to wait for a few hundred hours of use so that the settings will not need to be changed.

But the whole "break in" process of keeping the set dim and displaying nothing but uniform "break in patterns" is unnecessary. Burn-in virtually never happens anymore. Image retention, on the other hand, is still entirely possible. But the "after-image" disappears on its own after just a few minutes.

So feel free to go ahead and watch movies, TV and play games I wouldn't recommend Vivid Mode, simply because it is an awful picture mode! Just do a simple THX Optimizer calibration to start. And then, after a few hundred hours of use, go ahead and do a more in-depth calibration or bring in the ISF technician

thx..and do you think i can also play video games already??....the display must have 120 hours now.

 

[clouso]

sorry just noticed you said about video games..thx again now its time to enjoy the plasma!..lol

 

[bandphan]

But the whole "break in" process of keeping the set dim and displaying nothing but uniform "break in patterns" is unnecessary. Burn-in virtually never happens anymore. Image retention, on the other hand, is still entirely possible. But the "after-image" disappears on its own after just a few minutes.

While some may not care, the best ISF techs still recommend the break in dvds for reasons other than "burin in prevention".

 

[FirstReflection]

While some may not care, the best ISF techs still recommend the break in dvds for reasons other than "burin in prevention".

If you're a professional, and you rely upon 100% accurate colour and greyscale reproduction across the entire screen surface for your livelihood, then yes, this is still the case But if your concern is watching movies, TV shows and playing videogames, it really just isn't necessary. If you're not even going to bring in an ISF technician and, instead, are just going to perform your own calibration with something like CalMan or SpyderTV or not even using a light meter and just adjusting settings with Digital Video Essential HD Basic and colour filters, then it REALLY isn't necessary

I'm just taking the pragmatic approach here because if you're just looking at the plasma with your eyes, you're never going to notice the miniscule technical flaws. Like I say, if you're a professional and your job depends upon 100% accuracy...but at the same time, that person isn't going to be here on a message board asking about it, so...