Pictures of the meltdown!

[Bobby2x]

http://mordaunts.50megs.com/

Anyone know what therse resistors are? And where I can order new ones?

Pulled them off the Backing and the Blue Capasitor is a ALCAP 4 MFD / 50 VNP.
But the smaller CAP/RIST/? is unidentifiable!
Any help?

 

[Bobby2x]

I went to radio shack and they found a similar item to the Blue capasitor, they gave me Non-polarized Speeker Crossover 4kHz at 8 ohms
50 volt Max
Axial leads.
But the other Rez/Trans/CAp is unknown.....
Anyhelp...?

 

[Rip Van Woofer]

Without the markings being visible there's no way to tell, unless you can obtain and read a schematic of the crossover network showing the types and values of the components.

The brand(s) of the various components are not important.

Might it be better to see if a complete replacement crossover is available from the mfr.?

 

[Resident Loser]

Could they be...

...perhaps .50 megohm? Is the photo from the M-S website?

In fact, why not get the OEM parts from M-S? Certainly would eliminate the guesswork...do you know the X-over freq?...

Judging from that photo, I'd check all those stray(what looks like wire)strands...you're not mistaking the hot glue or epoxy for melting parts are you?


jimHJJ(...?...)

P.S. Just noticed the strands are probably 'glas fiber....

 

[Bobby2x]

your right the picture does reflect some fibers that were stuck.
But in the photo you see the Blue Capasitor? The one below it is
much smaller and burnt to a crips. no identifiable markings!
I'm sent in a email to the Mfg. and hope to get the spec's or
order some replacment parts!
I'll update this posting soon as I hear from them!
Thanks for the tips!
Does anyone think the Tweeter is blown out or could the Cap's
stop it from hitting the spaeker itself?

 

[MacManNM]

your right the picture does reflect some fibers that were stuck.
But in the photo you see the Blue Capasitor? The one below it is
much smaller and burnt to a crips. no identifiable markings!
I'm sent in a email to the Mfg. and hope to get the spec's or
order some replacment parts!
I'll update this posting soon as I hear from them!
Thanks for the tips!
Does anyone think the Tweeter is blown out or could the Cap's
stop it from hitting the spaeker itself?

Ring the tweeter out with an Ohm meter. Cant you open the other speaker up and measure the resistor in it?

 

[Bobby2x]

They are both blown....
I'm going to try hooking the CAp's from Radioshack
alone but I'm worried that if they arent already, they will blow out
without the un-identifiable Cap/fuse/resis (??)

Still no word from The MFG....

Also the new Cap's are close (not exact) in matching, but the new one is about 1/4 the size of the previous ones!

 

[Bobby2x]

The MFG told me today that the
Cap is 50V Non-Polar 4mfd
and the ajoining Resistor is:

47R 2w 5%

Anyone know where to buy these items from?

 

[bpape]

Try www.partsconnexion.com. They're not the cheapest and some of their stuff is pretty tweaky (don't forget to switch tabs across the bottom for different brands) but they'll likely have what you need.

Before you go there though, just try your local electrical / radio supply house. You'd be surprised what you can find there sometimes. The only issue might be getting non-polar caps - some have them, some don't.

 

[jeffsg4mac]

You will find your parts at madisound They have been in business a long time and are very reputable.

 

[Bobby2x]

Thanks Everyone for the Help!
I'm about done on this project.
One more thing, Anyone know
much about caps/resis?
I'm finding lottza different brands and
was wondering if any are better then other?
I've read that the magnitism on the compoments
makes somewhat of a difference. So wanted to see if there was any input...
I'll search through this awsome website somemore and see what I can find, but any recomendations would be appreciated!

 

[Rip Van Woofer]

Don't worry about brands.

Never heard of that "magnetism" stuff. Sounds like myth to me.

Any resistor of the appropriate value (Ohms), tolerance (in %), and wattage rating will do. Ditto for the capacitor (except the value is in microfarads, of course). Each should cost less than a buck...you'll spend more on shipping than for the components. For instance, a bipolar electrolytic cap like the one in your picture costs 40 cents from Parts Express (part #027-330). If you want to get fancy-shmancy you can get one of their house brand (Dayton) metallized film caps for $1.85 (part #027-421). There is no reason to spend more on so-called "audiophile" components.

Resistors of that tolerance and wattage rating are commonly available for about 20 cents apiece, although I didn't see any in the Parts Express catalog. They do have 5W 10% tolerance resistors, though. They should do although they'll be bigger than the one in your picture.

Meanwhile, I also second Jeff's recommendation of Madisound. Serious speaker building geeks know and love them!

 

[claudermilk]

If your can't find the parts you need at the places mentioned by Rip, check Digi-Key; they will certainly have what you're looking for. These kind of parts are basically commodity items & mfr makes no difference.

 

[Bobby2x]

Well after lotta work in locating the parts for this crossover, then sodering them together I still get no sound from the highs in these speakers!

I'm thinking the tweeters are blown out!

Talked to some guys at a speaker repair shop, told me to bring them in
and they'll tell me for $35 whats wrong!

and $50 hour for the repairs!

Sounds like what I need to do?

 

[3beanlimit]

No.....if the tweeters are blown, write to the speaker manufacture and ask for replacements.

Those are probably cheaper than what your speaker repair place is gonna end up charging you.

If you know for sure, they are blown......you might get them repaired but imho, I'm not sure it's worth it. You could also send them off to someplace like Orange County Speaker who make all kinds of repairs.

You do know you can semi test the tweeters if you use low volume and hook them up direct?

 

[Kiwi]

better still build yourself a better X over using good components , that looks to be a very low quality 1st order X over that sucks for speakers that are supposed to be good quality.

Dave