PC Power Supply to Car Sub

H

Headfoot

Junior Audioholic
Hello everyone. I would like to first state that I have a lot to learn about everything involved with audio, but I have done some basic preliminary research.

I recently bought a Kenwood VR-505, pretty basic stuff (100x5 channels, Pre Sub Out). I found one for a nice deal from a local guy off of eBay. I have some hand-me-down speakers from a friend, and they are sorely lacking in the bass department. And the highs for that matter. They're pretty bad.

What I'm doing is slowly building up a better system one component at a time, at the cheapest possible price I can. Price is the main factor for me.

My current plan goes something like this: Im planning on buying a 12" sub off of a friend and a 200 watt amplifier (I'm living in an apartment and cant have too much power, I just want to have more bass), both of them for car audio. After I've done some research I found there is the possibility of using the power supplies out of computers as a cheap way to get AC to DC so I can use car audio in a home audio setting. I have another friend who has some extra computer power supplies (PSU's) laying around that he'll give me for free.

What I'm looking for is someone with actual experience with this to look over my (most likely totally incorrect) plan to implement this. Firstly I would take the green #14 PS_ON and wire it to #15 COM right below it to fool the PSU into thinking that it's connected to a motherboard.
http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/22

I figure since the PSU puts out 12v (at least similar to a car battery), all I would have to do is figure out how many amps I would need. If I have a ~2 ft long piece of wire total, with 12v going to a (lets assume) 50% effecient amplifier I would need ~30-35 amps. It is unlikely my buddy's PSU's 12v rails will put out more than 15a at most, and more likely 6 or 8. Thus that brings me to the next point.

I would then twist together all of the yellow wires (the 12v rails) comming out of each PSU, solder each one to a 35 amp diode and then have 10 AWG wire comming out of the back of each diode and then join all of them together. Then I would run this joined wire to the actual amp. I would do the same thing for the ground wires out of the PSU's (except without the diodes) and attach that to the negative pole on the amplifier. My questions about this part are: How would I go about joining the wires before I run them to the amplifier, would I just solder them together? Is there some sort of doodad I should join them with? Can I use a capacitor here to even out the peaks and valleys? And can I join the grounds the same way I join the 12v rails?

I know this is long and Im probably not describing it correctly due to my lack of electrical engineering knowledge. I've put together a mock-blueprint that just outlines the concept of what I want to do.


EDIT: Forgot to write what I wanted to say on the second circle over a yellow intersection :p. What I mean to say there is that I would not twist in one of the 12v rails and instead put it to the REM in.

Thanks for reading this beast of a post, and thanks a ton in advance for any reply!
 
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annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
It sounds to me like it is more effort than what it is worth. You can pick up a cheap 70 watt plate amplifier for $53.00 at parts express which will do everything you are looking for, be less of a fire hazard, and have less opportunity to screw things up. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-784

You are in luck. The 240 watt amplifier from parts express is on sale for just $99.00
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-804

I admire your efforts but using car amplifiers in the home is typically not the best way to do it. The simplest way to go is to use a car battery hooked up to a trickle charger. The batter supplies plenty of current and the charger will keep the voltage up. I would have concerns about the amperage draw/supply ability of the setup you suggest. Sometimes simplicity is the best option.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Assuming the amplifier is 50% efficient 200 watts rms would require a continuous 32 amps of current supply. Any peaks will require more.
 
H

Headfoot

Junior Audioholic
Good Suggestions

That 240 plate is a good deal, would I hook that up just with whatever sub driver I can find? So basically I am asking can I use the same car sub driver that my friend will sell me? (I always thought the only difference between them all was the amplification and power supply flucuations) I could just modify the box he has with it probably then. And btw that does sound a lot easier, but making the whole ghetto thing does have a certain charm to it ;)
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Make sure the subwoofer has a 4 ohm impedance or can be configured to a 4 ohm impedance (dual 2 ohm coils in series). Other than that it should be fine.
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
I dont know if you can run two power supplies in parallel like that, Im going to take an educated guess and say no.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I did not look at that as it seemed like a bad idea to begin with (computer power supply). I didn't realize that was the plan. In that case it is definitely out of the question.
 
H

Headfoot

Junior Audioholic
would a diode change the issue?

Would having a diode on each line before combining them rectify the problem?
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Would having a diode on each line before combining them rectify the problem?

No, not really. It can't pull fom one supply, then the other. Diodes are typically used for isolation of circuits or signals on a single wire. I am not aware of using two complete 15 amp power supplies in tandem to power a 30 amp drawing source. If one were wired to act as a negative and the other a positive (+/-15 amps), it would work much better but not possible based upon the power supplies in their current configuration as far as I am aware.

To do it you would need a single 12V+ dc source capable of 30+ amps of current draw.
 
H

Headfoot

Junior Audioholic
Alright thanks for the advice. After all this work I actually think im just going to get some better speakers off the bat first, waiting for Christmas time. :)
 
H

Headfoot

Junior Audioholic
Bleed my way to Audiophile sound

Hey!

I've decided (as previously stated) that im going to hold off first for better loudspeakers.

Just recently here I decided instead of going the super cheap but quick route I'm just going to wait up and build a high-quality sub, and start off that as the first piece of a good musical stereo setup. I'll just accumulate better pieces over time.

The purpose of the sub is going to be about 5% HT and 95% Music

I've decided to go with either a Peerless XXLS 10" or a Exodus Audio Shiva-X 12". Im leaning towards the Shiva-X though (27mm xmax!). http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/products/subwoofer_drivers/shivax

Then I was thinking either a 100L or 120L sealed enclosure with 100% fill
Finally I would finish the muther off with a 240 watter from Parts Express thats on special. :p. That may change depending on what the special is though. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-804.
The key is I just need to be able to flatten out my response on it, which most any decent sub plate should do.

And if you are wondering why I'm going to bleed my way to the sub, the funds are comming from plasma donation!
 
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