Paint on projector screens. How do they look?

[Jerod81]

I am finishing my basement, and putting in a theater area. I am planning on buying the epson 5010 projector (comment on that too, if you have seen one in action) and was looking into what type of screen to get for it, when I came across Screen paint. I was hoping somebody here has seen in use, and can tell me a little more about it. Since my basement is completely unfinished right now, I am gonna have the wall be completely untextured anyways. Is it as good as a mid-high end screen? If not, is it at least good for the money? Any thoughts or ideas on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

 

[FirstReflection]

Just my opinion, but unless you get an absolutely master level painter to do it, it's nigh impossible to get a perfect finish with a paint on screen. I can almost always spot a trace of roller marks or a "cloudy" patch where the paint went on thicker or thinner.

There was a time when these minor imperfections were worth the difference in price of paint vs a fabric screen, but not anymore. If you look at the VApex screens, Monoprice screens or Elite Screen screens, the prices for a proper screen can be so low now that I just don't think a painted screen is worth it.

 

[jinjuku]

I have used the 'Silver Fire' from AVSforum(don't) and Black Widow from Hometheatershack (thumbs up).

You will want to put it on with a turbine sprayer I used the Wagner Control sprayer. Make sure your surface prep is impeccable and practice, practice, practice.

In hind sight I may have just purchased a screen from HT Depot.

 

[BMXTRIX]

The issue I personally see with all DiY screens is that the time it takes to do it right far exceeds the price to buy a entry level screen and the quality may match that of an entry level screen, but does not offer ANY of the convenience or flexibility that goes along with it.

It doesn't touch a mid level screen.

The brands listed above, HTDepot (Focupix), Monoprice, Vapex, etc. all are solid entry level models and should deliver a 110" diagonal for just a few hundred bucks.

With that, you get a metal frame screen which can be put up and (more importantly!) removed from the wall. If there is damage to the screen fabric, you may be able to get replacement fabric without having to rebuy the screen.

If you scuff the paint on your wall, you start over!

The screens are pulled flat (typically) while your wall must be finished to a perfectly flat level, which is possible, but requires some seriouly good drywall skills. Most drywall is really not as flat as it looks.

Drywall nail pops.

My go to mid-level screen is Carada based upon years of use of their product and finding their quality higher than that of similar DaLite/Draper screens which cost more. Their build quality is higher than the cheaper companies for sure, but if care is taken, the cheaper companies still provide a very good product for the money.

I don't tell people they should not go the DiY route, but I do strongly believe that it is rarely worth the time and the effort and that there are so many downsides that it just doesn't make sense.

There are some DiY painting ideas which cost far less than the kits and perform pretty much equally, so you do save cash, but at the cost of your time. Certainly doesn't hurt anyone for you to try it out, but may cost more in the long run and will definitely take more time.

 

[jinjuku]

Agreed. The paint route is a very mixed proposition. To do over again for the size I have I would have purchased.

I guess if you are doing some insanely large screen paint would have the cost advantage.

 

[Jerod81]

Thanks for all the input. Had I gone with the paint, I would have had the contractor, that is finishing my basement, do the actual painting. However, after some research based on your suggestions, I have decided to go with a fixed screen. Now, my only question is..... For my Epson 5010, do I need two seperate screens for 2D/3D? Also, with a very high controll on ambient light (meaning I can make it to where little to no oustide light gets in) should I still be looking at a high contrast screen? I will have 3 rows of seating, all centered with the screen. Thanks again for all the advise so far.

 

[FirstReflection]

No need for two screens. Both 3D and regular 2D will work just fine on a standard screen. With good light control and an ultra high contrast, deep black projector like the Epson 5010, a standard white material is all you need as well. Gone are the days where a grey or "high contrast" screen were necessary. Good mid-level projectors these days don't need any help to produce deep blacks and high contrast.

One thing I will say, if you plan to watch a lot of 3D, the 5010 might not be your best choice. The reason is because the 5010 and 6010 turn off the dynamic iris in 3D mode. Doing so allows them to output more light, but you lose the super deep blacks and the high on/off contrast. You get back the deep blacks to some extent due to the 3D glasses, but the image in 3D just doesn't have quite the same pop and contrast as the regular 2D image without the dynamic iris.

So the best way to think of the 5010 is as a very very good 2D projector that can do 3D in a pinch. The best thing about the 5010 is that it can pump out a lot of light, making it a good choice for larger screen sizes or rooms with a bit of ambient light. If you want to watch a lot of 3D though, the Panasonic PT-AE7000 is the better choice, IMO. It's not quite as bright, but certainly bright enough for 110" in a light controlled room. And its dynamic iris stays active in 3D mode

Also, if you're getting a fixed frame or tensioned electric screen, consider spending a bit extra and getting an acoustically transparent screen. I always prefer to use an acoustically transparent screen whenever possible. For one thing, an AT screen allows you to get the best possible center speaker placement at ear level behind the screen, rather than the typical way down below or way up above the screen center speaker placement. You can also get better room acoustics by placing absorption panels behind the AT screen, rather than having that huge, flat, acoustically reflective surface at the front of the room.

Elite Screens has their AcousticPro1080 material, which is about the least expensive acoustically transparent material in the market. Well worth it, IMO

 

[BMXTRIX]

For light control in the room, if this is a dedicated theater, make sure to paint the room dark. This includes walls and ceiling. Also put in dark carpet and use dark furniture if at all possible.

I would think with 3 rows of seating that this is a dedicated space, so properly treating it is a must!

The screen should be a white minimal gain screen. There is no need for a grey screen.

I would stick with the Epson over the Panasonic. Dynamic Iris is a great tool for getting around a LCD limitation, but can be distracting when in actual use. I think the extra brightness for 3D far outweighs the minimal loss that the lack of a dynamic iris would give.

Differring opinions on things of course!

Wish the JVC had a few more lumens and a better 3D mode because I would be that we would all be in agreement on that one!

 

[Jerod81]

For light control in the room, if this is a dedicated theater, make sure to paint the room dark. This includes walls and ceiling. Also put in dark carpet and use dark furniture if at all possible.

I would think with 3 rows of seating that this is a dedicated space, so properly treating it is a must!.

It's only use will be HT, so I have planned on using a dark grey for the walls, maybe a dark red or Maroon for the poster niches or accents. Also had planned on a dark, thinner carpet.

I would stick with the Epson over the Panasonic.

I am gonna stay with the epson. I am not a HUGE fan of 3D, but like the idea of it ocassionally. I think I am gonna go with the Elite screens sable screen.

Also, if you're getting a fixed frame or tensioned electric screen, consider spending a bit extra and getting an acoustically transparent screen. I always prefer to use an acoustically transparent screen whenever possible. For one thing, an AT screen allows you to get the best possible center speaker placement at ear level behind the screen, rather than the typical way down below or way up above the screen center speaker placement.

I am considering this, however, is it a pain to get to the center speaker if it is behind a mounted fixed screen? I could easily have the contractors build a niche for it in the wall behind the screen, but am wondering about the inconvenience factor. Then again, how often do you really have to mess with a center speaker once it is set up properly?
Here is a picture of the plans for the basement. Construction hasn't even started and I am already so excited!