Onkyo TX-SR703 and passive sub?

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I've been using an old Sony Receiver, STR-D611, with two micro satellites and a Micro 11 Sub, and have recently bought Infinity Beta 40 mains and a Beta C250 center. These I connected with the existing satellites and passive sub to the Sony. Yesterday I ordered a refurbished Onkyo TX-SR703 Receiver from Ubid and wonder if I can use the Micro 11 sub with it all. From reading the forum I gather that my old sub that takes bare wire or bannana connectors and isn't powered, can't work with the Onkyo. Is this true or is it a bad idea to use it even if it does work?

 

[wafflebird]

Not to laugh but welcome to my boat.

You have the reverse problem as me. I have a Kenwood receiver that only has a speaker wire output for the sub. I am trying to buy a powered sub to replace my existing passive sub while keeping my receiver. The Onkyo will have an LFE (Low Frequency Effects) RCA style output that your current sub will not take as it is passive. I am trying to do the reverse and make an active powered sub work with speaker wire outputs which will be easier. The only real way to make the passive sub work would be to hook it up to one of your B channel outputs on the receiver but I really don't know how well it would work really. It would provide it with signal and it would play I am sure but how good it would sound is not known to me. Look at the Onix X-sub or look @ Vanns.com. They have an awesome little 8 inch sub from Mirage with a 400 watt dynamic rating that is a great deal for $199.00. You have to buy the platinum one but that is no big deal for the cost. Good luck and let me know how it works out.

 

[Buckeyefan 1]

I've been using an old Sony Receiver, STR-D611, with two micro satellites and a Micro 11 Sub, and have recently bought Infinity Beta 40 mains and a Beta C250 center. These I connected with the existing satellites and passive sub to the Sony. Yesterday I ordered a refurbished Onkyo TX-SR703 Receiver from Ubid and wonder if I can use the Micro 11 sub with it all. From reading the forum I gather that my old sub that takes bare wire or bannana connectors and isn't powered, can't work with the Onkyo. Is this true or is it a bad idea to use it even if it does work?

You should have speaker inputs and outputs on the rear of your passive sub. Take the speaker wires from the receiver for the front left and right, and run them to the passive subwoofer "in."

Next, take the speaker wires you would normally run from your front speakers to the receiver, and route them from the passive subwoofer "out" to the front left and right speakers.

The only other thing you'll need to do is run through your on screen setup display on your Onkyo, and select "no" for subwoofer or LFE channel. You need to disable the circuit for a powered subwoofer which tells the rest of your speakers to follow the receivers internal crossover.

Your passive subwoofer has the necessary crossovers to direct all bass to the sub driver, and the full signal should go to the front left and right speakers, as well as any other surround/center speakers you have connected.

 

[Buckeyefan 1]

You have the reverse problem as me. I have a Kenwood receiver that only has a speaker wire output for the sub. I am trying to buy a powered sub to replace my existing passive sub while keeping my receiver. The Onkyo will have an LFE (Low Frequency Effects) RCA style output that your current sub will not take as it is passive. I am trying to do the reverse and make an active powered sub work with speaker wire outputs which will be easier. The only real way to make the passive sub work would be to hook it up to one of your B channel outputs on the receiver but I really don't know how well it would work really. It would provide it with signal and it would play I am sure but how good it would sound is not known to me. Look at the Onix X-sub or look @ Vanns.com. They have an awesome little 8 inch sub from Mirage with a 400 watt dynamic rating that is a great deal for $199.00. You have to buy the platinum one but that is no big deal for the cost. Good luck and let me know how it works out.

It sounds like you need something like this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102959&cp=&origkw=rca+speaker+wire&kw=rca+speaker+wire&parentPage=search

 

[wafflebird]

Thanks Buck

A question though, my current receiver is rated @ 100 watts per channel including the sub output. Would that in any way hurt the (new) sub if I ran that set-up w/ the RCA connection to the LFE input on the new sub? Maybe a dumb question but I would like to know.

 

[www]

You should have speaker inputs and outputs on the rear of your passive sub. Take the speaker wires from the receiver for the front left and right, and run them to the passive subwoofer "in."

Next, take the speaker wires you would normally run from your front speakers to the receiver, and route them from the passive subwoofer "out" to the front left and right speakers.

The only other thing you'll need to do is run through your on screen setup display on your Onkyo, and select "no" for subwoofer or LFE channel. You need to disable the circuit for a powered subwoofer which tells the rest of your speakers to follow the receivers internal crossover.

Your passive subwoofer has the necessary crossovers to direct all bass to the sub driver, and the full signal should go to the front left and right speakers, as well as any other surround/center speakers you have connected.

Thanks Buckeye; Makes sense, but one more question. How much better bass would I have with a new powered sub?

 

[Nick250]

A dramatic improvement in bass would be my expectation for a powered sub for movies and most likely for music too. But audio is subjective so it is possible that for your ears it would not be an improvement with music. I think it would be well worth the effort to try a powered sub from a company that has a good return policy see how you like it.

Nick

 

[www]

Onkyo TX-SR 703 and passive sub

Nick, I guess I should get one. What I'm looking for is to feel the bass during a good movie. My room is about 16 x16, do you think an 8 inch sub would do?
Wafflebird suggested the Mirage for 200 bucks.

 

[wafflebird]

Hey WWW

Picked up a powered sub yesterday to put it in my room, and oh yeah what a difference. And I got out really cheap to. You can see the whole story on the AMPs/RECEIVERS forum (Whats the difference is the thread)I won't bore you with all of the details but I got an education for sure, read it and you will see. Anyway I picked up a Velodyne VX-10 for around $150.00 and OMG. It is a little too much for the bedroom but hey that is what gain knobs are for, but with a good quality (don't beat me up guys I know that this is Velodynes’ bargain basement sub but you can't tell it, it made a $1200 brand new JBL sound bad sitting right next to it yesterday) powered sub replacing a passive is a true night to day comparison. I am sure that the S8 would rock your world as well especially for the price but I am more than happy and loaded for bear in the bedroom now. Make the change you won't be disappointed I am sure. Let me know how it all works out for you. Good Luck.

 

[BC Dave]

I'm Passive Aggressive

I love powered subs but I have purchased a passive sub and just love the results. It's a VMPS Original sub from 1991, but recently updated with VMPS's brand new 12-inch carbon fiber Megawoofer and 15-inch passive radiator. I'm using the sub out on my Denon Dolby Digital receiver and feeding that into a Rotel power amp bridged to 300 watts, then into the VMPS. This thing rocks, fills a huge room and is tight, deep and so much more authoritative than any powered sub I've ever owned. I still own a Mirage BPS-150 bipolar sub with twin eights and as much as I love it, the VMPS simply blows it away. The only downside is its size --- as big as a 36-inch TV standing on its side.

 

[wafflebird]

You go BC Dave.

I am sure that sounds awesome, I have never really had the opportunity to hear a passive (but made for a good high watt amp) sub of that quality. That kind of reminds me of that Klipsch Ultra THX2 system that Audioholics recently reviewed. Did you see the motor structure on those 12" subs, WOW! I am really loving my latest addition, still playing around with the settings but really happy.

 

[www]

TX-SR703 and passive sub

Okay, I've researched subs 'till nearly blind and have narrowed my under 300 dollar search down to three. My room is about 16x16 and I'm running Beta 40's and have found Velodyne VRP at Circuit City for 249, HSU StF-1 for 299, and Acoustech-H100 for 249. I was all set to order the HSU, but realized it's only an eight inch sub. Any of you on this forum know more about subs than me, so will somebody suggest one? Thanks.

 

[wafflebird]

Choices, choices, choices

First off all would be great choices, I personally have 2 Velodynes and even the cheaper of the two is impressive, very impressive. If the Velodyne is the 12 incher it would be a great choice. If it (the VRP) is the 10" then the BIC may be the way to go as it is a 12" and it will probably outperform the Velodyne, although you would really have to push it to hear the difference, subs are basically all Velodyne does and they do it very well. Also consider the speakers you are going to be running with the sub. Your Beta 40's would blend in nicely with the VRP and the Acousta-tech. All three would be a great addition to your system. Look at the specs and make the choice. Get it home and set it up right and you will not be dissapointed with any of the 3. Make sure you have adequate floor space for any of the three and try to dedicate it to a corner if possible. Let me know what choice you make, and how you like it. You can send me a private message if you want.

 

[jcPanny]

Sub options

I wouldn't wory about the old passive sub. Your mains will probably sound better set to large than mains crossed over with the pasive sub.

Some of the subs on your <$300 list are little 8" models that will only play down to the 30 Hz range. If this is your budget, also consider the $200 Onix X-sub from AV123.com
You also might consider saving a little longer for a good 12" sub in the $500+ range. SVS and HSU are good options and occasionaly they have discounts on B-stock. For $400, two of the Onix X-subs would also work pretty well.

 

[www]

I ordered the Premier Acoustic 500 watt PA-12 Sub from Acoustic sound design. It was 299 plus 40 for shipping, but I got it for 289 complete. I looked at the Acoustech H100 and when talking to the sales guy he told me the premier wieghed more because of the twice as big magnet. Good purchase or bad?
Anyway I'd like some more info. What do I need for cable to run at least 15 feet between the receiver and sub?
Another question. Don't know if it belongs in this forum or not, but I''m looking at component video cables to run from DVD and my TV says I can use component cables (480i only). Isn't that what composite cables give? Should I buy the components or stay with my existing composites? Appreciate your help.

 

[wafflebird]

Sub sounds nice I am sure you will enjoy it

Looks like it will work out well (well is a serious understatement, do you have everything tied down in your listening room) for you, believe me if you are going from a passive to that you honestly will not believe the difference. As far as a cable goes you will see a lot of "Sub" cables and they charge you an arm and a leg for them. Any digital audio cable such as you hook up a DVD player with will work. I suggest www.monoprice.com for this their prices are unbeatable and they are reputable. I am sure you could buy the cable you need and have it express shipped for much less than a chain store will charge you. Also if that sub has both a R&L in put make sure you buy/order a Y splitter. You put the female end to the sub cable, then plug both males into the R&L of the sub. There are a lot of better ways to buy the cables that the chain store.

Now onto you component cable question. What type of TV do you have? If it is only a standard definition TV you may see a little improvement in picture quality but not that much. Look at monoprice for the cables as they are very cost effective there so it would not be a big expense anyway. If you have a high def TV then it will make a difference if you have a progressive scan DVD player. It will then broadcast in 480P, but it sounds like either your TV is standard definition or you do not have a Progressive scan DVD player. Let me know. Looking at your profile you are not to far south from me, I am just west of FTL.

 

[www]

Thanks for the info, Wafflebird. I didn't realize I'd need a Y splitter. On the component cable thing, I have a FD Triniton WEGA TV, not HD. I picked it up a couple years ago for cheap thinking I'd get an LCD flat when the prices came down. MY DVD is Pioneer DVD 225 progressive scan compatible and under general specs it says TV format-- NTSC. Yeah, you're not far from here, but FTL makes you a northerner in relation to Mia. Hurricane humor's warped.

 

[wafflebird]

Alright then!!!!!

Well it really would not make that big of a difference in the picture quality then. Your TV does have component in right? If it does then suffice it to say that if you went component in, you would have the best possible picture. I hope you are prepared for that sub. That thing is going to ROCK!!!! When do you expect it?

Oh and hey I used to live in Kendall myself!!!!!!!!