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turbo24003

Audiophyte
ok heres the deal im looking to build myself a new powered sub and here's what i have in mind......3 Peerless 830452 XLS 10" Subwoofers with one or 2 amps from parts express havent decided on the model yet (input) built into a cofee table enclosure. question 1 is a cofee table sub a very bad idea or a reasonable one. 2 will this sub be to over bearing im just starting with the whole high end home audio thing, but here's what i have so far Pioneer VSX-90TXV, and Mcintosh mc 2100, the 2100 is running a pair of bose 901 MK VI's the peioneer is running a pair if B&W books for the rears with a bose center channel. i know this is kind of a hodge podge of gear but i got most of it really cheap. this system get used for 2-3 hours of music with maybe 2 hours of movies a day"....... any input would be great
 
E

Exit

Audioholic Chief
I used to have a BIC 18" passive subwoofer that was downfiring and was the size of a coffet table. It was covered in a vynal wood look covering. Water from iced tee condensation ran down into the corner and warped the vynal covering. Also you may have the issue of things on top vibrating or rattling so that you really don't want it to function as a coffee table. My PB12+2 is big enough to be an end table, but I don't let anything or anyone sit on it.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
Uh, as long as the subwoofer cabinet is braced and dampened properly, it won't shake at all. Good subwoofers don't shake.

SheepStar
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Depending upon where the "coffee table" is placed within the room, it may or may not give you the performance you are after.

I will have to check that sub to see how it models for performance.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Upon modeling the Peerless, I would suggest the Audiopulse driver. At nearly twice the excursion with the same amount of surface area you could do two of them and equal what nearly four of the Peerless drivers would for output, not to mention the sound quality would be excellent.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
hey annunaki, let's do a sticky thread in the DIY section with links to where people can buy drivers, PR's, ports, etc. (everything DIYer's need)

i find that noobs like me have trouble actually locating "options" for drivers. we're limited to what people actually suggest.

e.g.

drivers:
www.parts express.com = audiopulse, dayton
www.diycable.com
www.soundsplinter.com
 
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turbo24003

Audiophyte
ill look into the audiopulse subs are they at partsexpress ? This thing will mainly be used for movies since im pretty happy with the sound for music without a sub but for those occasional parties im sure it will be used. the main question is will this thing be major over kill in comparison to the rest of my system ?
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
ill look into the audiopulse subs are they at partsexpress ? This thing will mainly be used for movies since im pretty happy with the sound for music without a sub but for those occasional parties im sure it will be used. the main question is will this thing be major over kill in comparison to the rest of my system ?
yes, at partsexpress.com ... here's the link

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?FILTER=audiopulse&FTR=audiopulse&search_type=main&WebPage_ID=3
 
A

allargon

Audioholic General
As much as I would love a Titanic, how is the Dayton C1500K ($270) for music (Blu-Ray/HD DVD, CD, DVD)? (hip-hop, r&b, soul, jazz, classical and some rock+folk) I have a large room, so I'm thinking 15" drivers minimum. I'm pairing the sub w/ two Infinity P362's as mains. My listening is 35% music, 25% movies and 40% TV. (No one ever mentions that high def/standard TV on audioholics even though I know I'm not the only one.)


http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-770

The SVS, Hsus and their variants (Dayton Titanic, Outlaw, etc.) aren't quite in my trying to keep it below $300 range right now.
 

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