Thanks for the reply. As far as audio and video quality, I should rephrase that I want acceptable performance in each category for my situation and for what I am looking at spending. I am not expecting stellar performance, although any surprises would be nice. In other words, I am not super discerning when it comes to A/V equipment and just want a pleasing result without any surprises. Basically, other factors may trump performance in either of those area.
5k-10k? I've told my friends recently that I can build an HT that puts the local theater to shame in both video and audio, all equipment, rack, remote, cabling, for $6k all in. The extra possible $4k you have should go into HT seating, room treatments, and other possibilities, like outboard amp, etc.
So, feel free to be super discerning. The game here is allocating money in the right way to get you
discernable improvements per dollar. The receiver purchase is probably the easiest way to misallocate dollars, IMO.
Concerning video, I want the image to look nice and since I am going with a large screen I figure it is important to give the video capabilities a little attention. However, since all of my sources will be HD (720p and 1080p) with maybe a few SD DVDs thrown in I am hoping that most options will provide an adequate picture. I know it is a stance that is frowned upon by many on this board but as long as I get a decent/acceptable picture I really want to focus on equipment that will be versitile and easy to use. The idea of having a receiver and making one selection to tune in the video and audio and have everything ready to go is going to be a requirement for my wife. She is really into the KISS theory.
OK. So if its just a few SD DVDs, forget spending that extra $500-$5000 towards VP. Your bluray player will upconvert fine enough for now, at least for someone who is not an insane videophile. As for ease, as highly as Denon is respected, their manuals leave a lot to be desired. Onkyo is really the easiest I've ever seen. I recommend the remote that I use. It works on RF, and the system package with blaster and emitters is only $80. The RF-20 + blaster combo. Though a few others disagree, I think URC is better, easier, more reliable, less expensive, less of a headache than Logitech. And I've owned both, and programmed multiples of each. Get it. You can hide your components as well now.
For audio, I want something that is well rounded and assuming the receiver offers all of the features I am after and the video output is acceptable I want to put any extra funds into the audio side of the equation. Once again, I am not an audiophile but do appreciate something that sounds nice - especially when it is played loud. That is why I was interested in the Nad receiver. It has all of the features I am after and from what I have heard it is a step above the mainstream receivers when it comes to sound quality. I have never heard one myself though and don't know for sure how much better it might be. I have heard good things about Onkyo but I was a little put off by some reports about them overheating more than other lines. Not sure as to the validity of those claims though.
I own a 70lb NAD amp. I've also owned a pre/pro of theirs. I also own a Camridge Audio integrated, and an Onkyo receiver that replaced the NAD. This, in all honesty, should be the least of your concerns. The receiver choice for some reason attracts noobies like flies on you-know-what, but it has such little bearing on your AV experience, purely outside of (again) the MINIMUM features that you require. In fact, noobies love starting with the receiver so much they buy it before the speakers! You keep repeating yourself in wanting features, but you never mentioned a single one outside of 1080p, which IMO is a misallocation of money already. If you don't know what features you want, you probably don't need them.
All of the above were responses to your paragraphs. Now, its my turn . . . (good thing I had an early dinner, cuz this is going to be long, I might even have to break this up into multipe posts if I break the word count limit).
A few facts to lay down a bit of foundation:
- darker is better for PJ system. Look towards light control, and dark EVERYTHING, including walls.
- 38% or 62% of room length is the accepted starting point for listener positioning, or you can also think of odd dimension ratios like 1/3, 2/5, 3/7 . . .
- ear level is best for ALL speakers, and that includes your surrounds.
- having the setup lengthwise in the room, along the greatest dimension, is beneficial for audio.
Other little recs since I think of them now, and don't want to forget:
- Monoprice for all of your cabling needs. There, I just saved you hundreds.
- That URC remote
The All Important Front Soundstage:
Three identical towers for your fronts. By having the identical tower, you will be:
- perfectly matched as matched can be, in all speaker characteristics
- even plane of tweeters/drivers for perfect and even panning
- completely bypass horizontal lobing issues inherent in a horiz mtm design, which usually means a sweetspot at less than 20 degrees.
- horiz cabinet means vertical dispersion as opposed to horiz dispersion. Sound likes to travel along the path of least resistance (smallest dimension), so to speak.
- less stuff/mass/material in-between your speakers that would otherwise destroy stereo, or m-ch, imaging.
- better video immersion without all the lights up front
- best of all, money in the pocket
If it indeed must be horizontal, the best designs will be such as top mounted tweeter (ie B&W), WTMW (ie Revel, AV123), or coincidental (KEF).
Now, if you have only one loveseat, for 1-2 viewers, not as big of a deal, assuming you sit straight on. If you have more than one couch, my suggestions just only regarding center design will benefit you greatly.
Now, Let's Do This One Better:
Acoustically Transparent screen will allow you to have the dialogue perfectly centered and locked into display. Now, with the Pana 3000, you can go with 2.35/2.40 screen, and still be able to do 3 towers without the AT. But the AT is better.
Now, Let's Do This Two Better:
False Wall. Simple frame covered with acoustically transparent material such as GOM (guillford of maine). Now, you won't have any reflections off of your speakers or sub, and will be utterly immerssed in a sea of black.
How Big is Big?
THX recommends 36 deg viewing angle, SMPTE recommends 30 deg.
Bear in mind this is for 16:9 AR (aspect ratio). I use 42, and people with anamorphic setups often go 50 or even greater. However, the all important factor is personal preference. My suggestion is throw up the pic for a solid week before finalizing screen size. In any case, you can use this viewing angle calculator:
http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html
*The one issue of going VERY big is that your lumens will be spread out too much for a PJ that is not a light cannon. In this type of case (or also if there's too much ambient lighting), a high power screen can be nice. Its what I use, but I sacrifice narrower viewing cone, impossibility of AT, necessary PJ mounting as close to eye level as possible. OTOH, a pic with pop, resistant to waves, and very affordable.
I think all of the above is enough to chew on for now. Are we in the Beginner's Forum? ruh roh.
If I was in your shoes, I'd foresee myself going with:
- dual subs, both up front. Or possibly at opposing midwall points
- three towers for damn sure if screen allowed it to
- cheapest receiver with only the minimum features necessary
- an outboard amp
- room treatments for damn sure. Id budget at least 1k I think.
My, um, 2 cents. Feel free to click the "thanks" button on the lower right of my post . . .