Need Help with Driver&Plate Amp Selection

[cheapskate40]

Hi All,
I recently purchased a powered sub to upgrade from an old passive sub I picked up in '93. What do you do with a old piece of equipment? Take it apart and see what makes it tick, of course! When I took out the speaker and crossover I was impressed with the build quality of the cabinet- 3/4" MDF for the sides, top, and bottom and 1 1/8" for the front baffle. The cabinet has cross bracing in the front and back and a brace running vertically through the middle of the cabinet. I would like to put a new driver and plate amp in this cabinet if it is worth my time and money. I tried various free box software programs, but most of them work with inputing the driver and spitting out box dimensions instead of the other way around. The internal volume of the cabinet is 1.65 cubic feet (taking into account the bracing) and the port is 4.25 inches in diameter and 13 inches long. The recessed cutout is 10.25 inches and the driver cutout is 9 1/8 inches. The baffle is 11 inches wide, so I'll have to stick with a 10" driver. I was looking at the Dayton Quattro 10". Thoughts?

Also- The original driver is foam surround and there are no parameters printed on the speaker.

 

[WmAx]

It sounds like you will be doing a sealed alignment? Of course, with normal drivers(and the Quattro is quite average, I assure you), you will have not much LF output below 40Hz or so. Even with drivers suited to high output at LF in sealed alignments, you usually need to incorporate active EQ correction to boost LF to a flat response.

If this sub is just for music, then the Quattro might be okay. But you should consider a sub like the Shiva-X ( http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=653 ) for your sealed application. It has potential for significant LF output in a sealed system. You will need high power and an appropriate EQ(parametric) to pull off this with optimum results. Please consider pro amps over plate amps. Only low power plate amps are wise, so far as cost. But you need high power to use EQ to get a deep bass extension with substantial SPL.

-Chris

Hi All,
I recently purchased a powered sub to upgrade from an old passive sub I picked up in '93. What do you do with a old piece of equipment? Take it apart and see what makes it tick, of course! When I took out the speaker and crossover I was impressed with the build quality of the cabinet- 3/4" MDF for the sides, top, and bottom and 1 1/8" for the front baffle. The cabinet has cross bracing in the front and back and a brace running vertically through the middle of the cabinet. I would like to put a new driver and plate amp in this cabinet if it is worth my time and money. I tried various free box software programs, but most of them work with inputing the driver and spitting out box dimensions instead of the other way around. The internal volume of the cabinet is 1.65 cubic feet (taking into account the bracing) and the port is 4.25 inches in diameter and 13 inches long. The recessed cutout is 10.25 inches and the driver cutout is 9 1/8 inches. The baffle is 11 inches wide, so I'll have to stick with a 10" driver. I was looking at the Dayton Quattro 10". Thoughts?

Also- The original driver is foam surround and there are no parameters printed on the speaker.

 

[Haoleb]

Its not sealed, It has a port 13" long and 4.25" diameter

 

[cheapskate40]

Thanks for responding-

As stated, The volume is 1.65 cu. ft. and the port is 4.25" diameter and 13" long. Looking at the port, it is glued from the inside so it would take some 'gentle persuasion' to get it out. It doesn't look like I could cut the port to a shorter length while it is in the cabinet. If I can remove the port I could replace with a flared port of a smaller diameter.

 

[TLS Guy]

Thanks for responding-

As stated, The volume is 1.65 cu. ft. and the port is 4.25" diameter and 13" long. Looking at the port, it is glued from the inside so it would take some 'gentle persuasion' to get it out. It doesn't look like I could cut the port to a shorter length while it is in the cabinet. If I can remove the port I could replace with a flared port of a smaller diameter.

In that case you are stuck. Your only hope is to seal the port and find a driver that will work as a sealed unit in that cabinet.

 

[unreal.freak]

Can you post up some pics of what you are up against? It may help with a solution for the port.

Peace,
Tommy