Need advice on audio system for computer/office $1k - $1.5k

WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I I have left/right preouts that I could use with a Y splitter to the LFE in of the sub but as soon as I remove the jumpers on the preouts, the NAD stops playing. I guess it disables the internal amp circuitry (sp?) in order to use outboard amplification.
This sounds like a good thing. Do the pre-outs that come out of that integrated have the volume control of the integrated applied to them?

If so, this means you can take those pre-outs - connect them to a proper active crossover - then run the high pass outputs from the active crossover back to the amp where the jumpers were connected and then send the low pass out of the active crossover to the sub(s). This will provide for better subwoofer integration with your mains.

The most powerful option would be a Behringer DCX2496; it's a DSP unit that you can even control via a serial cable using a very user friendly GUI from the computer. Or go with a much less powerful analog active unit from any number of manufacturers. Behringer also makes some of these under 100 bucks.

-Chris
 
mouettus

mouettus

Audioholic Chief
This sounds like a good thing. Do the pre-outs that come out of that integrated have the volume control of the integrated applied to them?

If so, this means you can take those pre-outs - connect them to a proper active crossover - then run the high pass outputs from the active crossover back to the amp where the jumpers were connected and then send the low pass out of the active crossover to the sub(s). This will provide for better subwoofer integration with your mains.

The most powerful option would be a Behringer DCX2496; it's a DSP unit that you can even control via a serial cable using a very user friendly GUI from the computer. Or go with a much less powerful analog active unit from any number of manufacturers. Behringer also makes some of these under 100 bucks.

-Chris
Wow. you lost me there lol. I said my mains won't play if I remove the jumper on the pre-outs. And if I use the pre-outs to go to the "active crossover", how can I use them back?

Please keep in mind that I don't have any plans on getting an A/V rack just for my computer audio stuff. I'd like to keep it simple. I guess that if I don't want to use the speaker level inputs on the subwoofer, I'll have to change from an integrated to a receiver.

First I was just asking if I lose a lot of audio quality if I use a subwoofer's speaker line inputs/outputs. If so, I'll just keep my 2.0 rig no problem. An ESW-V8 would've been great though.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Wow. you lost me there lol. I said my mains won't play if I remove the jumper on the pre-outs. And if I use the pre-outs to go to the "active crossover", how can I use them back?
The PRE-OUT jacks normally have small metal jumper connected to MAIN IN. The volume control/etc. from the pre-amp section is outputted externally, crosses the jumper and is sent back into the unit, directly to the amp via the MAIN IN jacks. This means you can insert an active crossover externally, and feed the filtered signal back to the MAIN IN. You should be happy - you can easily use the subwoofer you want to use, and with perfect integration, using an inexpensive active crossover and a couple of plug adapters. If you want details on connecting, just ask.

-Chris
 
mouettus

mouettus

Audioholic Chief
The PRE-OUT jacks normally have small metal jumper connected to MAIN IN. The volume control/etc. from the pre-amp section is outputted externally, crosses the jumper and is sent back into the unit, directly to the amp via the MAIN IN jacks. This means you can insert an active crossover externally, and feed the filtered signal back to the MAIN IN. You should be happy - you can easily use the subwoofer you want to use, and with perfect integration, using an inexpensive active crossover and a couple of plug adapters. If you want details on connecting, just ask.

-Chris
Bummer. I would've used the a y-splitter on the preouts to the LFE in of the sub an still use my mains. I don't have that kind of money to spend only for adding a subwoofer to my computer system. Those RC-10s are doing good as they are. I would've liked a little punch that's it.

That or buying 3 y-splitters! lollll:
From preout left to main in, other end hanging
From preout right to main in, other end hanging
Then take the two hanging wires and plug the other splitter backwards and plug it into the sub! haha what a mess!
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Bummer. I would've used the a y-splitter on the preouts to the LFE in of the sub an still use my mains. I don't have that kind of money to spend only for adding a subwoofer to my computer system. Those RC-10s are doing good as they are. I would've liked a little punch that's it.

That or buying 3 y-splitters! lollll:
From preout left to main in, other end hanging
From preout right to main in, other end hanging
Then take the two hanging wires and plug the other splitter backwards and plug it into the sub! haha what a mess!
Well, you can do it using splitters. It won't integrate ideally and you won't achieve extended dynamic ability that the xover affords by removing LF from the bookshelf speakers.

You can get a transparent, low noise crossover for $90(Behringer CX2310). Seems like a reasonable price to me.

-Chris
 
mouettus

mouettus

Audioholic Chief
Well, you can do it using splitters. It won't integrate ideally and you won't achieve extended dynamic ability that the xover affords by removing LF from the bookshelf speakers.

You can get a transparent, low noise crossover for $90(Behringer CX2310). Seems like a reasonable price to me.

-Chris
Have you ever seen Behringer stuff integrate well into a bedroom? lol I'll take a look at the device anyway.
 
T

trambach

Audioholic Intern
I recently went through the same thing, and started w/ powered speakers. TBH, the first thing I did was re-rip CDs into ALAC (I'm a Mac user), then I spent $500 on a Apogee Duet (DAC), then bought AudioEngine A5's (powered speakers) for $350. Well, after a month, I dcided to upgrade!! Sold my A5's on another forum for a minimal loss. I then bought a Music Hall A25.2 Integrated amp, Epos ELS-3 bookshelf speakers, and a Hsu VTF-1 powered sub. Given my room (~1500 cubic feet), and the fact most of my listening is nearfield, this setup is pretty darn good--sounds terrific, IMO.

If I were you, I'd consider first what you point out anyway--the actual music source your listening to. And, again, just my opinion, it might be worth your while to take a look at an external DAC (USB or optical) as well.... I can't even describe what a difference the Apogee Duet made in sound quality, and Macbook Pros are said to have decent native audio capabilities.

Not to sound snobbish, but your consideration of B&W speakers for this application indicates you have really good taste!! :) I'm a sucker for English speaker companies (heck, I bought Epos after all, even though they're the low end)... I'm just wondering if those would be the best speakers for nearfield listening?? Or am I assuming too much that's what your listening position would necessarily be?
I thought the Apogee Duet was an amp already... What difference can you hear with the Music Hall A25.2 Integrated amp? I want to have a similar setup. Did you use the monitor outputs on the Duet or the headphone output to the amp?
 

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