My DIY speaker build.

[panteragstk]

So I've decided that I'm going to try my hand at an actual speaker project. I've already built some subs out of spare MDF and that went pretty well. Learned a lot about cabinet construction even though my build was so simple. However, I still have a lot of questions for those that have experience.

I've decided on the ER18's with a ribbon. I've always like ribbon tweeters and have read that near wall positioning is possible unlike the Mini Statements which was my other choice.

The room they will be placed in is pretty big, but the listening space isn't. The total space is around 25'x19'. I'll correct the measurements if I need to. The listening space is about 12'x19' so I'll be around 15' away from the front of the speaker.

The receiver I've chosen is the Marantz NR1504. It is one of their slim models and puts out 50wpc @ 8ohms and 70wpc @ 6ohms. For that space I think it will be enough. It will be used in stereo mode since this will be a 2.1 system. It has pre-outs so if down the road I decide on a new amp it will be a simple upgrade.

I have a ton of questions when it comes to the actual cabinet. I read through the entire ER18 thread (great info BTW) and have a pretty good idea of where to start.

My plan is to build out of veneer ply (birch) instead of MDF. MDF dust is annoying and I'd rather not have to iron on veneer. If that is a better way to go please tell me. I am going to attempt to stain them to match the furniture in the room for the WAF needed to make her happy as this will be one of the first things you would see upon entering our house.

I have a router, but the bits I got aren't all that high in quality. Any brand recommendations? Also, I've just got the blades that came with my miter, table, and circular saws. Any help there would also be appreciated. These are going to require much more of my attention than a simple sub box so I'd rather not make too many mistakes. I will make some with this being the first time, but I'm a perfectionist and want the best foundation you guys can give me.

My tool list is as follows: Bosch plunge/fixed base router. Ryobi bits. Ryobi table saw and miter saw. Ryobi cordless circular saw. I also have a band saw I got from my grandfather before he passed, so I may not need a saber saw. I have 4 clamps.

Tools I know I need: track system for the circular saw for the long cuts (table saw isn't the best for full sheets and wifey is pregnant). Lots more clamps.

What else should I look at to make this process as simple as possible? Any books or sites relating to stain matching?

I eagerly await your advice on anything you guys can think of. Thanks.

Tristan

 

[Nestor]

A couple of things right off the bat:

If you're going to finish in (Baltic) birch, get a representative piece first and try different finishes. Baltic birch has a wild grain pattern and can be blotchy if not treated. Better to determine ahead of time rather than on the end product.

Second, if you're in the market for new router bits, get the best router bits you can afford. Just buy the ones you need. Don't get tempted by the "50 bits for 50 bucks) packs. Make sure you have a 1/2" collet. 1/2" shank router bits make for a smoother cut.

 

[fuzz092888]

Forest Blades for the cicular saw and table saw if you can swing it. I've tried a bunch of different router bits from different companies and I find Freud to be quite good for the money.

How do you plan on putting everything together so no end grain shows? If you don't have a plan for that 45 degree angles on all the edges with the table saw will make it look good and also help when putting things together. I would also suggest you dado where the braces are going to go. With only 4 clamps everything you can do to make everything just slot together will help.

I would use the circular saw and track to cut down the full sheets into more manageable pieces, but make as few cuts as you can with it. I only say this, because I like making cuts with the table saw. This way I can plan out all that cuts that need to be the same size, set the fence once, then make the cuts. This way, if I end up being off a little bit, at least everything is consistent.

Also remember that rougher edges, as opposed to super smooth ones glue better.

Dado blades are expensive, dado bits aren't, but that also means you need be able to use the track with your router as well and will take extra careful setup to make sure they're straight and 90 degrees.

I don't know if any of that helped, but good luck

 

[panteragstk]

All good advice. Lots of things I didn't think of. I'll just use the table saw for the big cuts. I did with my MDF and it was OK, but I think I've learned from the mistakes I made then.

I guess birch won't be the best choice for a nice finish. I'll have to research veneer a bit more.

 

[Swerd]

Good choice for the ER18 MTM .

The most important wood cuts will the first ones where you cut all those 12" wide panels. If they are all the same width and have parallel edges, the rest will be easier.

Do you have the full pdf version of the write up for the ER18? If not, PM me with an email address, and I'll send it to you.

My plan is to build out of veneer ply (birch) instead of MDF. MDF dust is annoying and I'd rather not have to iron on veneer. If that is a better way to go please tell me. I am going to attempt to stain them to match the furniture in the room for the WAF needed to make her happy as this will be one of the first things you would see upon entering our house.

If you're going to use finish grade ply, or veneered ply, consider taking the time and effort to learn to make miter cuts instead of butt joints. With miter cut edges at 45° angles, no panel edges show after cabinet assembly.

You seem to have the tools to do this, but there is a learning curve before you get it so the panels fit when assembled. There ought to be web sites, or even you tube videos that can introduce you to this subject. It isn't nearly so easy as making butt joints, where there's a will, there's a way. I know that TLS Guy here on AH has photos of builds he has done with this method.

I have a router, but the bits I got aren't all that high in quality. Any brand recommendations? Also, I've just got the blades that came with my miter, table, and circular saws. Any help there would also be appreciated. These are going to require much more of my attention than a simple sub box so I'd rather not make too many mistakes. I will make some with this being the first time, but I'm a perfectionist and want the best foundation you guys can give me.

If your router has a ½" collet, make sure to get the bits with ½" shanks. One exception, is a ¼" bit for cutting circles to mount drivers. Get only bits with carbide cutting edges.

I have found Freud router bits are well made and last a long time, but there are other good makers, such as Whiteside.

My tool list is as follows: Bosch plunge/fixed base router. Ryobi bits. Ryobi table saw and miter saw. Ryobi cordless circular saw. I also have a band saw I got from my grandfather before he passed, so I may not need a saber saw. I have 4 clamps.

Get a circle cutting jig for your router. You can also make your own, but if you are starting, buy one such as the Jasper Jig. I have the model 200 and 400 jigs.

Amazon.com: Jasper 200J Model 200 Circle Cutting Jig for Plunge Router: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Jasper 400J Model 400 Router Circle Cutting Jig: Home Improvement

It also helps when cutting circles, to use a ¼" spiral upcut router bit.
Freud 75-102 1/4-Inch Double-Flute Up Spiral Router Bit - Amazon.com

Tools I know I need: track system for the circular saw for the long cuts (table saw isn't the best for full sheets and wifey is pregnant). Lots more clamps.

When I buy sheet lumber at Lowes, I get them to make the first cuts in the store on their panel saw. That's why I tried to make everything the same 12" width on the cut list. It's much easier to carry those 12" strips home instead of the whole 4'×8' panel.

What else should I look at to make this process as simple as possible? Any books or sites relating to stain matching?

I highly recommend any number of books by Bob Flexner, such as
Wood Finishing 101: The Step-by-Step Guide
by Bob Flexner

Amazon.com: Wood Finishing 101: The Step-by-Step Guide (9781440308451): Bob Flexner: Books

I have an older edition, and everything I know on the subject comes from that book.

 

[panteragstk]

Thanks. I do have a jasper jig. Forgot to mention that. I have a 1/2" and 1/4" collet with my router so I'll be sure to get that size bit. I'll experiment with 45 degree angles on my table saw and see how things go. That will be a better way to finish unless I plan to veneer then I'll just use but joints like I did with my subs. I may rabbit the joints for extra glue surface, but I think that may be overkill.

 

[Swerd]

… (table saw isn't the best for full sheets and wifey is pregnant)

I forgot to add… congratulations !

Test all stains and finishes on pieces of scrap from cutting your ply wood. Jim Salk says he uses a coat or two of sealing lacquer, followed by dye (not stain) to achieve the desired color, followed by at least 4 more coats of clear lacquer. Many woods absorb stains irregularly across the surface, depending on the grain. Using dye on top of a sealer coat keeps it more uniform and predictable. Flexner's books go into much more detail about this. Testing your finishes with scrap wood allows you to make all your mistakes without messing up your cabinets.

Oh, and of course, you're going to need lots of clamps.

Good luck!

 

[panteragstk]

I forgot to add… congratulations !

Test all stains and finishes on pieces of scrap from cutting your ply wood. Jim Salk says he uses a coat or two of sealing lacquer, followed by dye (not stain) to achieve the desired color, followed by at least 4 more coats of clear lacquer. Many woods absorb stains irregularly across the surface, depending on the grain. Using dye on top of a sealer coat keeps it more uniform and predictable. Flexner's books go into much more detail about this. Testing your finishes with scrap wood allows you to make all your mistakes without messing up your cabinets.

Oh, and of course, you're going to need lots of clamps.

Good luck!

Thanks again. Yep first kid so pretty excited. I'll have to run to Harbor Freight and grab a bunch of clamps. Great price on them there.

Hopefully I'll convince the wife to let me start these before the little one gets here. We'll see.

 

[macddmac]

Love to see an see that cabinet with Revelators and Raal tweeters.I wonder if Dennis would entertain designing the X-overs for that one.
Cheers, Mac

 

[fuzz092888]

Love to see an see that cabinet with Revelators and Raal tweeters.I wonder if Dennis would entertain designing the X-overs for that one.
Cheers, Mac

I believe Jeff Bagby is currently working on a kit using the OEM RAAL and a revelator woofer for a bookshelf. Based on hearing some of his work first hand, I have little doubt it will be an amazing kit...........that may also make your pockets shrivel and die.

 

[fokakis1]

Subscribed. Good luck with your build, especially the stain matching. A good contrast is much better that a slight mismatch.

 

[lsiberian]

I use 13-ply birch from Home Depot they have 2' x 4' sheets which are easier to handle as a one man crew.

For cutting a I use a circular saw Bosch cs10 with a forrest woodworker blade and an emerson self-clamping straight edge.

For routing I use a Bosch 1617 plunge. I use a 1/4" Spiral upcut big with a jasper jig for circle cutting. The jasper jig is not the best option lining up the pins is a major PITA. I suggest the Router Buddy Circle Jig it seems to be more effective. Your knees will thank you.

For assembly I recommend 8 corner clamps and pl construction adhesive. You have to be dead accurate to use miters and doing that with plywood is very hard.

 

[GranteedEV]

I believe Jeff Bagby is currently working on a kit using the OEM RAAL and a revelator woofer for a bookshelf. Based on hearing some of his work first hand, I have little doubt it will be an amazing kit...........that may also make your pockets shrivel and die.

the woofer is an SB Satori fwiw.

 

[fuzz092888]

For assembly I recommend 8 corner clamps and pl construction adhesive. You have to be dead accurate to use miters and doing that with plywood is very hard.

Thought I'd give miters a shot. I only just started assembly so we'll see how accurate I was.

 

[Nestor]

Thought I'd give miters a shot. I only just started assembly so we'll see how accurate I was.

You could try adding spines after assembly to add strength to the miters.

Using a different colored wood for the splines can add a pleasing effect.

It's a little after the fact, but you can cut a groove down the length of each bevel and insert a single spline. This will add strength and hide the spline.

 

[lsiberian]

The other issue with Miters is you can't really round them over very much either.

 

[Nestor]

The other issue with Miters is you can't really round them over very much either.

I think Fuzz's goal with miters is to hide the plies, which rounding over would re-expose.

 

[fuzz092888]

You could try adding spines after assembly to add strength to the miters.

Using a different colored wood for the splines can add a pleasing effect.

It's a little after the fact, but you can cut a groove down the length of each bevel and insert a single spline. This will add strength and hide the spline.

I had thought about that, but I'll probably skip it for this build. In the future I'll plan for stuff like that, but for this one I just wanted to try to miter to see if I could do it with some measure of accuracy.

The other issue with Miters is you can't really round them over very much either.

This is sub (albeit a tiny one) so it'll have a double thick front baffle, which means hardwood trim which I'll be able to round. If it was a bookshelf build or something else, that would definitely be an issue.

 

[fuzz092888]

I think Fuzz's goal with miters is to hide the plies, which rounding over would re-expose.

I think he just meant that if you miter something to make assembly easy, to remember that rounding over can be a real problem. Not necessarily directed at me since I kind of hi-jacked the thread.

 

[lsiberian]

I had thought about that, but I'll probably skip it for this build. In the future I'll plan for stuff like that, but for this one I just wanted to try to miter to see if I could do it with some measure of accuracy.
This is sub (albeit a tiny one) so it'll have a double thick front baffle, which means hardwood trim which I'll be able to round. If it was a bookshelf build or something else, that would definitely be an issue.

Just be careful moving it sharp corners can cut. You can always rabbet out a 1/4" of the seam and add a quarter round in.