Musings on Loudspeakers, Part 4 (of 4): Tweaking the MC500’s Crossover with Pencils
If you aren’t laughing, shame on you. You do not yet know how I’m going to use a couple of pencils to improve the accuracy of my MC500 center channel, so you should definitely be laughing.
Even though the similarity of the sound of the MC500 and the HD-580 headphones was inescapable, the timbre of the MC500 did not match the Advents, and this was distracting when listening to anything with center channel content. That included the handful of Dolby Surround CDs that I bought before DVD and before Dolby Digital 5.1 appeared on Laser Discs. Those are still some of my favorite CDs, and while I liked listening to them using the MC500 for the center, it was apparent that the timbre of that speaker was excessively “bright”. After I performed the measurements, I had a precise understanding of what was going on. Being in the hunt for new speakers to replace the Advents, I would need to decide whether to replace the MC500 along with them, which I was considering even though I hadn’t had it very long. I decided to try tweaking the crossover before deciding whether to replace it.
To reduce the output of the tweeter, you merely have to place a resistor of appropriate value in series with the tweeter, but that increases the impedance of the tweeter circuit relative to the woofer circuit, which will shift the crossover point to a higher frequency. To compensate for that and maintain the crossover point at the same frequency, you have to place a second resistor in parallel with the tweeter and the first resistor, so that the resulting parallel resistance or impedance is the same as that of the tweeter alone. Ideally, you would measure the complex impedance of the tweeter and compute the resistance at the original crossover point, but not having an impedance bridge, I had to hope that calculations based on the tweeter’s DC resistance would suffice. Looking at the frequency plot, I determined that if I reduced the tweeter output by 3 dB, the peak would then be at +3 dB relative to the midrange response, and it would be preceded by a dip that would reach –3 dB, with the roll-off above 10 kHz occurring a little sooner.
To reduce the power by 3 dB, you have to reduce the square of the voltage across the tweeter by half. I ended up subtracting 1 from the square root of 2 and multiplying that by the resistance of the tweeter, which told me that the resistor that I would put in series with the tweeter would need to be 1.65 Ohms. To find the resistance for the parallel resistor, I added 2 to the square root of 2 and multiplied that by the resistance of the tweeter, and got 13.6 Ohms. I had long since forgotten the resistor color codes and the standard logarithmic sequencing of resistor values. I had taken the plate that has the tweeter and midrange off the MC500 in order to measure the resistance of the tweeter, and once I start something like this, I don’t like having to wait for a couple of small resistors to be delivered. You can try calling the local electronic supply houses, but these days they tell you that they only sell on-line and no longer even have counter service. Times have changed.
I wondered whether I might be able to make resistors from some wire that I had lying around, but even using 28-gauge copper wire, I would need 25’, and that was for the 1.65-Ohm resistor. I started looking around, and when I pulled open one of the drawers where I keep an assortment of tape and glue and small parts and such, I spotted a few pencils. Pencil lead is made of graphite of course. I cut off both ends to expose the graphite and measured the resistance for the entire length. I determined that while the length that would be needed for the small resistor would be too short to be able to achieve the desired accuracy, if I scrapped away about half of the “lead” over most of the length of that pencil, I could use it to make the 13.6 Ohm resistor. Then I remembered that I had a couple of those fat pencils for little kids, and after measuring its resistance, I determined that I could make the 1.65 Ohm resistor with a few inches of it, without scraping the lead. I’ve never previously heard of anyone using pencils to correct the exaggerated output of a tweeter, so this may well be a first.
Truth be told, it took me a couple of hours to make the resistors. I had to cut the wood very carefully to expose enough of the lead to insure reliable contact, but not so much that I would end up breaking the pencil. I had to be especially careful with the regular sized pencil, where I needed to scrape off a little more than half of the lead over most of the length. Wait, you are wondering how I made contact with the graphite, right? Using small alligator clips, of course. I pressed their little teeth into the soft wood on the opposite side from the exposed graphite, and then used some very fine elastic cord to secure each alligator clip and taped it all over carefully. After some soldering, and some heat shrinking and some more taping, I used paper package tape to secure both of them to the inner reaches of the sub-enclosure used for the midrange/tweeter assembly, then dropped the mounting plate in place and put the screws back in.
I thought that maybe I should test it before wiring it back up normally, but I went ahead and set it on top of the rear projection television and quickly found the Telarc CD “Switched on Bach 2000”, which is encoded in Dolby Surround. It definitely sounded much better, but I was surprised at how much of a difference it made. I switched on the white noise test tones for Dolby Surround, and whereas previously the difference in timbre between the MC500 and the Advents was like night and day, they were now much better matched in timbre, albeit hardly perfect. I repeated that with the 5.1 test tones generated by the DVD player just to check the level matching, and again was pleased at the timbre match evident in the white noise test tones.
In order to measure the change in frequency response, I had to take it back off the television and set in on the stool, connected to one of the main channels. By this time I was very proficient at running through the 31 test tones quickly using the fast-forward control and jotting down the numbers. I plotted the results, and it was exactly what I had anticipated. Whereas previously the response was essentially flat nearly to 5 kHz, now there was a visible drop starting at about 2 kHz but very gradual to about 3.5 kHz, where it became a little steeper but not reaching –3dB until 5 kHz. Then it turned sharply up and reached a +3dB peak at 8 kHz. Just as I had planned, the area under the negative deviation is nearly an exact match for the area under the positive deviation. The level at 16 kHz was reduced by about 2 dB.
I had to increase the level slightly for both the Dolby Surround, which is set at the receiver, and for Dolby Digital, which I set at the DVD player due to my using the decoder in the player. With the treble reduced and the level increased, the smooth middle bass and midrange of this speaker comes forth like it never did before. I had no idea that it could sound as good as it now sounds. I was always puzzled why a center channel speaker this large didn’t make any more bass that it did. I wouldn’t have thought that such a simple change could make such a big difference, but the difference is enormous. Whereas previously I did not like listening to regular stereo with the Dolby Surround decoder engaged, I now prefer that, especially for television programming. (I have HD cable but only use a stereo audio connection, which will be changing as soon as the Denon AVR-2807 finds its way to the store shelves.) If there were a way to effect a similar change to the sound of the HD-580 headphones, I would do it in a heartbeat.
I started out thinking that I was going to replace my Advent 5012 speakers with new speakers that would match the timbre of the MC500 center channel speaker and the HD580 headphones. I ended up turning the Advent speakers upside down and installing a couple of pencils inside the MC500. It just goes to show you: you never know where you’re going ‘till you get there.
- Kaiser Soze