Mounting my Panny PT-AE900U

[sfurules]

Not many of you will have read any of my earlier posts, but I have reached the point in the construction of my basement (and of course....dedicated theater ) that I need to decide on how to mount my projector. As the title suggests, I have a Panasonic PT-AE900u Projector that I need to mount on the ceiling. During the construction I mounted a large piece of MDF to the that is now covered by Drywall, but I can screw into. What would be the suggestions for a mount. THe projector (even with its wicked cool lense shift) will need to be about 9 inches from the ceiling in order to use it without keystoning (Which I refuse to do ). I would rather not spend huge bucks on a mount since the budget is pretty much exhausted on the rest of the freaking basement.

Dan

 

[mtrycrafts]

Not many of you will have read any of my earlier posts, but I have reached the point in the construction of my basement (and of course....dedicated theater ) that I need to decide on how to mount my projector. As the title suggests, I have a Panasonic PT-AE900u Projector that I need to mount on the ceiling. During the construction I mounted a large piece of MDF to the that is now covered by Drywall, but I can screw into. What would be the suggestions for a mount. THe projector (even with its wicked cool lense shift) will need to be about 9 inches from the ceiling in order to use it without keystoning (Which I refuse to do ). I would rather not spend huge bucks on a mount since the budget is pretty much exhausted on the rest of the freaking basement.

Dan

In that case, I think you need to build a 9 inch tower hanging from the ceiling. What kind of attaching points on that Panny? You need to match that. Or, a base plate over the Panny with matching mounting holes, a threaded 1 1/2" or 2" pipe flange maybe 7" of pipe, another pipe flange attached to the ceiling all painted.

 

[majorloser]

There are many manufacturers that make universal mounts that can handle high ceilings.

Here's a site with a bunch:

http://store.videomountstore.com/projectormounts.html

or

http://mountdirect.com/special

NOTE: The more axis of adjustments, the better when buying one.

EDIT: BTW, the title of the thread got me to chuckle (I know, dirty mind)

 

[BMXTRIX]

The Chief RPA-U universal mount or the one specific for the AE-700/900 projectors is top notch. It mounts using standard 1.5" steel pipe, which you can get at your local Home Depot/Lowes/etc. Because it uses standard steel tubing you can get a 1" extension, or a 10 foot extension and it'll work fine.

I did an install with a projector with zero lens shift, and needed a 67 inch long tube. Went to Home Depot and they custom cut (and threaded) it for me in the store.

Yes, about $150 or so online for the mount, but it is a killer mount!

 

[kkrambo]

Forget the mount, use a shelf

I noticed in one of your other posts that your room is 15.5 feet deep. I would adios the ceiling mount and just build a simple shelf on the back wall to place the projector on. Put the shelf up high so the projector is at the same height you were planning (but leave room for airflow above and around it). The shelf should be about 17-20 inches deep to allow room for cable connections behind the projector.

My room is 16'4" and I've placed my Sanyo-PLZ4 on a shelf like this. Good luck.

-- Kevin

 

[sfurules]

The problem with the shelf idea is that there is a window well right in the middle in the back of the room. It is a basement room and code requires the stupid window.

 

[majorloser]

Another small consideration:

The shorter the throw distance, the brighter the image. If you stay on the shorter side of the recommended distance range to the screen (lens zoom) the image will be a little brighter.

 

[theatreholic]

The problem with the shelf idea is that there is a window well right in the middle in the back of the room. It is a basement room and code requires the stupid window.

Newbee..

sfurules - dont mean to hijack the thread but could you please give some details on your DIY screen. I just got the fabric. Looking for Ideas to build it.
Thanks in advance.

 

[JonBaker99]

+1 for Chief RPA-U. Awesome mounts. It is the only thing I will sell to my customers.

 

[BMXTRIX]

Newbee..

sfurules - dont mean to hijack the thread but could you please give some details on your DIY screen. I just got the fabric. Looking for Ideas to build it.
Thanks in advance.

While I don't like to recommend that people go to AVS Forum for much of anything, they do have some links in the screens forum -> sub forum DIY screens that links to a bunch of different ways to make a screen yourself.

This thread specifically has all the links:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=646534

This is the method that I used when making a screen:
http://www.eldamar.net/house/ht/screenHowTo.html

Let me be very specific: DO NOT IGNORE THE CENTER STRUT! DO NOT IGNORE THE DIAGONAL STRUTS!

The size of fixed frame screens and the tendency of wood to bend means that when you stretch the screen material (like a canvas) onto the frame, the without proper support the frame will sag. In fact, even installing the fabric will allow you to feel how much flex is there.

I added corner brackets (steel L brackets) to make the joints stronger and less likely to contort, and I did not put on the riser piece that is shown in the above link. If I were to do it again, I would add that 1/4" riser to create a perfectly floating screen.

For a border, I used 3" or 4" baseboards from Home Depot. I wrapped them in velvet (not fake stuff) and then put them together will small L brackets and put that on TOP of the finished screen.

Total time for the project: About 8 hours or so and putting the fabric on was definitely the most difficult part. Especially the velvet.

 

[theatreholic]

Thanks BMXTRIX.

I saw the posting on AVS. Not sure if I could do the slanting lumber. I guess a flat lumber also works?
thx

While I don't like to recommend that people go to AVS Forum for much of anything, they do have some links in the screens forum -> sub forum DIY screens that links to a bunch of different ways to make a screen yourself.

This thread specifically has all the links:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=646534

This is the method that I used when making a screen:
http://www.eldamar.net/house/ht/screenHowTo.html

Let me be very specific: DO NOT IGNORE THE CENTER STRUT! DO NOT IGNORE THE DIAGONAL STRUTS!

The size of fixed frame screens and the tendency of wood to bend means that when you stretch the screen material (like a canvas) onto the frame, the without proper support the frame will sag. In fact, even installing the fabric will allow you to feel how much flex is there.

I added corner brackets (steel L brackets) to make the joints stronger and less likely to contort, and I did not put on the riser piece that is shown in the above link. If I were to do it again, I would add that 1/4" riser to create a perfectly floating screen.

For a border, I used 3" or 4" baseboards from Home Depot. I wrapped them in velvet (not fake stuff) and then put them together will small L brackets and put that on TOP of the finished screen.

Total time for the project: About 8 hours or so and putting the fabric on was definitely the most difficult part. Especially the velvet.

 

[BMXTRIX]

Thanks BMXTRIX.

I saw the posting on AVS. Not sure if I could do the slanting lumber. I guess a flat lumber also works?
thx

Slanting lumber?

I just used 1x3 poplar wood (nice straight pieces!) and cut them by hand. To cut the diagonal pieces, I laid the large rectangular frame on top of them, then marked them by hand and cut them by hand. I used screws and angle brackets to hold it all together.

The last thing he adds is a piece of corner moulding that may go on baseboards or in corners. It's just glued in place and helps to hold the screen up by the least amount of surface area available. In retrospect, I would have done that, and I will add it next time.

 

[kaabob]

The Chief RPA-U universal mount or the one specific for the AE-700/900 projectors is top notch. It mounts using standard 1.5" steel pipe, which you can get at your local Home Depot/Lowes/etc. Because it uses standard steel tubing you can get a 1" extension, or a 10 foot extension and it'll work fine.

I did an install with a projector with zero lens shift, and needed a 67 inch long tube. Went to Home Depot and they custom cut (and threaded) it for me in the store.

Yes, about $150 or so online for the mount, but it is a killer mount!

I'm planning on getting this too, but i think I'd need an extension. Since one end of the pipe screws into the RPA unit, then the other end of the steel pipe must be mounted on the ceiling... any tips on mounting the ceiling end of the
pipe?

 

[BMXTRIX]

I'm planning on getting this too, but i think I'd need an extension. Since one end of the pipe screws into the RPA unit, then the other end of the steel pipe must be mounted on the ceiling... any tips on mounting the ceiling end of the
pipe?

Chief mounts use standard 1.5" pipe which is threaded on the end. You get this in the plumbing department of your local Home Depot, Lowes, or other hardware store. They will also have a 1.5" flange in the same section...

Looks kind of like this:

When you put this into a ceiling joist, using at least two long lag bolts, this is the end result:

In reality, I now have the power outlet up behind the drywall and the wiring pulled down through the pipe so it is a nice clean final look.

 

[mtrycrafts]

it is a nice clean final look.

Except that uncovered 120 outlet

 

[BMXTRIX]

Except that uncovered 120 outlet

You missed it - I ditched the 120 outlet. It is now cleary against electrical code and up behind the drywall. No electrical outlet visible, no wires coming down. More like the pics attached. No new pics of my setup yet.

 

[kaabob]

Oh wow, very clean look there. How did you get the wiring done through the wall? Did u use fishing tape stuff or rip the drywall out and then string in the wire and patch it up? How did cover up the whole from the old power outlet too? Sorry I'm asking so many questions... I had to google up flange too =P

 

[BMXTRIX]

Oh wow, very clean look there. How did you get the wiring done through the wall? Did u use fishing tape stuff or rip the drywall out and then string in the wire and patch it up? How did cover up the whole from the old power outlet too? Sorry I'm asking so many questions... I had to google up flange too =P

The wiring was done by an electrician with minimal holes made in the wall, then was patched and painted. That's not MY home, which I still have a bit of work to do, but generally the same concept. Opened the ceiling, did some work, closed it up, patch, sand, repeat, then paint.

There are numerous articles online that can give you better details on fishing wires than what I can provide and in my person setup I did it all pre construction so I have conduit and a good bit of mini-high resolution cable in the ceiling ready to use.

 

[raajgopal]

Can the projector be mounted to ceiling joist using only 2 lag screws? The porjector is PT-Ax100U, about 11lbs.

 

[BMXTRIX]

Can the projector be mounted to ceiling joist using only 2 lag screws? The porjector is PT-Ax100U, about 11lbs.

If you only use 2 lag screws and your projector weighs 11 pounds then you want to be careful that you don't hang a swing from the projector and sit in it for more than about 10 years.



Or... Yes, a single lag screw in a ceiling joist can pretty easily support 200 pounds or more of weight. 2 lag screws just evens the weight distribution and stabilizes the projector. You will not have issues.