Monster 3600 Power conditions questions

[ragged]

Anybody who has one, what reading is displayed? I saw 116 at a store, but I get 122/123 at home. Also, do you leave it on all the time or is it turned on by remote trigger?

Thanks!

 

[mtrycrafts]

Anybody who has one, what reading is displayed? I saw 116 at a store, but I get 122/123 at home. Also, do you leave it on all the time or is it turned on by remote trigger?

Thanks!

That must be the line voltage reading. The store is on a different grid than your residence, or you are better located to a step down power transformer, or less load on your line that the store's, so, it is normal.

I would leave it on as some components are in standby, need power for memory?

 

[Sheep]

That must be the line voltage reading. The store is on a different grid than your residence, or you are better located to a step down power transformer, or less load on your line that the store's, so, it is normal.

I would leave it on as some components are in standby, need power for memory?

Ok, I see these things at work all day, but are they any good? Cause soon I will get 60% off all monster stuff.

SheepStar

 

[The Chukker]

I have two, one of which is in use (game room). The other I dumped in favor of a Tripplite LCR 2400 power conditioner (for the HT). Keep in mind that the HTS 3600 will only show you current line voltage (normal is ~120V) but can only monitor it. The Tripplite unit (as well as other makes) will maintain a steady 120V +-3V no matter what the line voltage is. I can't remember off the top of my head, but I believe the HTS 3600 has 4 unswitched, 2 switched outlets, and 2 timed outlets (for amps, subs, and/or powered speakers). I would leave it on -- there is no need to turn it on and off. If you do get it, take advantage of the dimmer switch for the front panel; the default setting is too high. Also, keep in mind that the unit has a really annoying blue LED on the front ("Clean Power On" or some sh1t like that) that is extremely distracting. Lastly, the HTS 3600 has a very high joule rating (more even than my Tripplite) but the deal breaker for me was that it did not regulate incoming voltage.

 

[gmoneyreece]

i currently have the hts5100 mk2 and the avs2000 units from monster. as the post above mentioned the 5100 (just a step up from the 3600) only monitors the voltage, that is where the avs2000 comes into play. some may argue that these units "clean" up your picture and sound but in all reality there true function should be to protect your equipment. at 60% off on the monster you are getting to a price point that the stuff should actually cost, so it is not a bad deal.

my take would be, if your equipment is $10,000+ then spending $1000 on voltage, surge, and current protection makes sense. if you equipment is <$4000 or so then it's overkill. just get a nice surge suppressor.

also, as mentioned above you are looking at the voltage reading which does vary from grid to grid (even house to house). as long as the voltage stays within a +-10% you probably are ok. anything outside of these parameters can damage your equipment. i think to avs2000 can maintain 120v down to about 90v in or 75%.

 

[ragged]

Yeah I see what you're saying about stabilizing the current. But the tripp lite is 400 bucks, the avs200 is 1500 bucks. The avs200 probably does a better job than the tripp lite, and it does look a lot prettier too! So maybe that's the price difference, or maybe it's that monstor gives up to 500k protection while the tripplite only gives 25k.

They both do the same thing, why such a huge price difference?

 

[gmoneyreece]

the monster retail prices are a real rip off. one case in point...my local bestbuy has an open box avs2000 for $700 (or more than 1/2 off) when typically bestbuy only gives you 10-15% off open box items. why? because the retail/retailer mark up on monster way is out of line. that being said, if you can get the avs2000 for $600 (or 60% off as noted above) it is a good piece of equipment for the price. fyi...i paid $579 for mine. it does look nice my only beef would be that you cannot dim the dispay very far like you can on 5100.

 

[Audioholics]

So far we have been amazed at how products from APC cost about 1/5 of these so-called 'high end' products and do far more. For example, the H10/H15 products ($299/$399) offer voltage regulation in addition to surge suppression and power filtering.

The APC units also do not have this on page 4 of their user manuals:

??? Must be some pretty hefty power protection if the first thing they do is tell you to unplug it during a storm...

And it's not more than just MC, nealry all the high end power conditioner companies are charging more and doing less. We'll get into this (with measurements) later this year.

 

[gmoneyreece]

So far we have been amazed at how products from APC cost about 1/5 of these so-called 'high end' products and do far more. For example, the H10/H15 products ($299/$399) offer voltage regulation in addition to surge suppression and power filtering.

The APC units also do not have this on page 4 of their user manuals:

??? Must be some pretty hefty power protection if the first thing they do is tell you to unplug it during a storm...

And it's not more than just MC, nealry all the high end power conditioner companies are charging more and doing less. We'll get into this (with measurements) later this year.

that is pretty shady, look foward to the benchmarks to come...

now i need to add a TVSS on panelboard and a lighting protection system on my house with grounding rods spaced every 5 feet!jk.

 

[~JC~]

I'm probably a little slow here, but I don't understand how they activate the on-off cycle of the various componants. The better units list that they have variable time delays that can be set, such that all peripherals are not powered on at the same time. So does the remote trigger the APC (which has been left on???) or when the remote triggers (for ex ) the receiver, does the APC insert the pre-programed delay?

 

[ragged]

I'm probably a little slow here, but I don't understand how they activate the on-off cycle of the various componants. The better units list that they have variable time delays that can be set, such that all peripherals are not powered on at the same time. So does the remote trigger the APC (which has been left on???) or when the remote triggers (for ex ) the receiver, does the APC insert the pre-programed delay?

Yeah I'm curious about that as well, as the manual is sorely lacking. I assume you plug your receiver into an unswitched outlet in the 3600, so it gets power even though the 3600 is switch off? Also plug the remote trigger from the receiver into the 3600 to turn it on/off with the receiver?

 

[~JC~]

Yeah I'm curious about that as well, as the manual is sorely lacking. I assume you plug your receiver into an unswitched outlet in the 3600, so it gets power even though the 3600 is switch off? Also plug the remote trigger from the receiver into the 3600 to turn it on/off with the receiver?

So, only devices that have a remote trigger can take advantage of the time delay startup? I'm sure that my sub doesn't, and that's the one that needs to be delayed. (lights dim if everything powers up at once. )

 

[ragged]

Well I'm thinking you then plug the sub into the switched outlet, so that it would be time delayed to power on. So push power on receiver, the receiver the 3600, and any components plugged into "unswitched" power on, then the sub and anything pluggged into the switched outlets are then time delayed and turn on shortly after.

We need someone who has done this to post in here

 

[~JC~]

So do these units have a remote? All of my equip is in another room. Things are turned on/off with an RF remote. I don't want to have to go into the equip room to turn part of the equip on/off.

 

[ragged]

No it's the trigger from the receiver that turns the 3600 on, that's what I think. Then if your sub is plugged into the time delayed "switched" outlet at the back, your sub will power up after the receiver turns on. I think.

Man the manuals do suck.