Modified DT 600 - Question about a Passive Radiator

R

RedCharles

Full Audioholic
I'm limited on floorspace. I know the DT 600s fit my room. I also know the DT 600 sub is bad. I bought some Dayton reference 8 inch subwoofers, model RSS210HF-4 8. I also bought some Bash 300S amps. Much better already. There's a floppy passive radiator on the bottom of the sub. I ordered some Dayton passive radiators, model DSA215-PR 8. But I'm not really sure I've got the right passive radiator for my application.
Everything I've read says you need twice as much passive radiator, so I'm thinking I'll just cut a 7 1/8 hole in the top and slap another one in there.

How bad are my ideas so far?
 
S

shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
What you are doing will end up producing sound, although not at all accurately. If you are not picky about accurate sound reproduction, I say go for it.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
What's the software called. I'm game.
WinISD is one program but you need to understand that a passive radiator isn't as simple as "I'll slap it in and see how it goes".
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I'm limited on floorspace. I know the DT 600s fit my room. I also know the DT 600 sub is bad. I bought some Dayton reference 8 inch subwoofers, model RSS210HF-4 8. I also bought some Bash 300S amps. Much better already. There's a floppy passive radiator on the bottom of the sub. I ordered some Dayton passive radiators, model DSA215-PR 8. But I'm not really sure I've got the right passive radiator for my application.
Everything I've read says you need twice as much passive radiator, so I'm thinking I'll just cut a 7 1/8 hole in the top and slap another one in there.

How bad are my ideas so far?
To be honest, bottom of the class bad. A passive radiator design is just a variation of a ported box, with the ABR taking the place of the port.

So the driver, or drivers, need to be in the same sized box as the ported equivalent. There is little leeway in box size. Then the ABR needs the correct T/S parameters and weighting.

So just like a ported design, you start with the driver and that dictates box dimensions, and either port of ABR specification.

ABR designs are more difficult as there are more steps involved.

The bottom line is that it is usually next to impossible to match a driver to an existing box, as it presents a hugely difficult task of complex reverse engineering.

So what I'm telling you is that it will actually be far less work to start with a new box.
 

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