Looking to buy new receiver- not home theatre setup just for cd, radio and records

R

Reader123

Audiophyte
Hi
I am currently looking to buy a new receiver- my setup is basic- not connected to tv, just for listening to cds, radio, and records, possibly connect my tape deck.
I had a B & O receiver that is not working anymore. I have a budget, would like to pay no more than 350 USD.
I was looking at a Yamaha RN303- i do have 2 pairs of speakers- 2 upstairs and 2 downstairs. I was told that the Yamaha Rn303 would not be able to handle that, is that correct? Any suggestions on a good solid unit that would be able to run my setup?? Thanks for your help!
 
davidscott

davidscott

Audioholic Spartan
Should be fine if you only run one pair of speakers at a time.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
I would get the $650 Yamaha RX-V683 on sale for $350 brand new on Amazon.

2-ZONE, 7.2 Atmos/DTSX/4K.

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V683BL-7-2-Channel-MusicCast-Bluetooth/dp/B06XY1YTMJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1551015102&sr=8-3&keywords=Yamaha+AVR

Dynamic Power output is 190W into 4 ohms and 235W into 2 ohms x 2 CH.

Should be able to handle both sets of speakers as long as the volume is not crazy.

https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/rx-v683_u/specs.html#product-tabs
 
R

Reader123

Audiophyte
I was looking at this model
Yamaha R-S500

would this be able to take 4 speakers?
 
GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
Do you really need a tuner? If not, consider an integrated amp.

Also, look for lightly used. $350 will go much further on the used market.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Unless you get a 2 zone avr, as mentioned, no integrated is really designed to play 2 pairs of speakers at the same time and at anything other than background levels.
 
GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
Unless you get a 2 zone avr, as mentioned, no integrated is really designed to play 2 pairs of speakers at the same time and at anything other than background levels.
Depends on the speakers, amp and spl. Sticking with 8 ohm speakers certainly helps. An amp with reasonable overhead helps too, which is why going lightly-used has greater chance of success in making the most of $350.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Do you really need a tuner? If not, consider an integrated amp.

Also, look for lightly used. $350 will go much further on the used market.
Any Integrated Amp in this price range (used or new ) you know of that can output 190W into 4 ohms and 235W into 2 ohms x 2 CH Dynamic Power?
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Depends on the speakers, amp and spl. Sticking with 8 ohm speakers certainly helps. An amp with reasonable overhead helps too, which is why going lightly-used has greater chance of success in making the most of $350.
Yup, if one can find a speakers that remain 8ohms thru their entire FR.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
i can't believe you're talking dynamic power.
Because you think real music need CONTINUOUS POWER of 200W?

Or that your speakers can handle this continuous power?

And you think that when Gene/Audioholics measures the Dynamic Power, that he's wasting his time because you know better?
 
GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
Yup, if one can find a speakers that remain 8ohms thru their entire FR.
Or get an amp with decent headroom, instead of going for big dynamic power numbers (chuckle..., I can't believe AcuDef said that).
 
GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
Because you think real music need CONTINUOUS POWER of 200W?
Nope. But continuous power is measured to a definitive standard. Continuous power measuring procedures vary.

If you really want to know how an amp will react to dynamic loads, look at WRMS, rise time, slew rate, and head room.
 
Last edited:
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Or get an amp with decent headroom, instead of going for big dynamic power numbers (chuckle..., I can't believe AcuDef said that).
I'd say your getting into $$ at that point. Unless he is using horn loaded high sensitivity speakers, its tuff. B&W 6 series is an example of what they consider 8ohm speakers even though they Dip below 4 ohms in critical regions. So not many amps like to see a 2 ohm load.
 
GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
I'd say your getting into $$ at that point. Unless he is using horn loaded high sensitivity speakers, its tuff. B&W 6 series is an example of what they consider 8ohm speakers even though they Dip below 4 ohms in critical regions. So not many amps like to see a 2 ohm load.
I own a set of DM601s. They don't go any lower than 4.7 ohms and a lot of time are well over 8 ohms. Not difficult to drive.

On the $$s issue, I did suggest going used.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
I own a set of DM601s. They don't go any lower than 4.7 ohms and a lot of time are well over 8 ohms. Not difficult to drive.

On the $$s issue, I did suggest going used.
So that would be 2.4 ohms , which is no fun. Not sure what series you have but I measured the driver from series 2 and it was 3.x around 100hz IIRC.
 
GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
At one spot. And it's at 200 Hz. But does the OP have 601s? I don't think he mentioned any speaker in particular.

But again, I did suggest going used. A good receiver/integrated can carry such loads. A not-so-good one can't.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
At one spot. And it's at 200 Hz. But does the OP have 601s? I don't think he mentioned any speaker in particular.

But again, I did suggest going used. A good receiver/integrated can carry such loads. A not-so-good one can't.
Just used them as example. Have no clue what the OP has as not a lot of useful info was supplied yet. The speaker A B was never intended to drive two pairs simultaneously. A mid level avr with zone 2 would be the ideal solution.
 
GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
Just used them as example. Have no clue what the OP has as not a lot of useful info was supplied yet. The speaker A B was never intended to drive two pairs simultaneously. A mid level avr with zone 2 would be the ideal solution.
Some times they are. I've seen lots of A, B, A+B rotary switches on decent integrated amps.

If you want something to sound sonically superior regardless of price, you must place it into an amp chassis (not AVR) and you must remove the Tuner at all cost! :D
 
GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
I don't really care one way or another. Not here to build a social media following...
 

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