Looking for a 15" sub replacement

R

Reorx

Full Audioholic
I recently acuired a Ashly FTX 2001 amp for a passive sub ($100 at a garage sale. Mint condition).
FTX-2001 delivers a full 300 watts per channel at eight ohms, 475 watts into four, and 550 watts when confronted with a true two ohm load. All models may be mono-bridged, at a power rating of twice their four ohm per channel capability.
I have a Yammy htr5760, and 6 ElectroVoice 110rms loud speakers.

I have a blown 15" sub.
I'd like to keep the sub housing (downward firing similar looking to the svs pb12-ultra), and just replace the woofer.

My questions are:
1. Is there a sound difference between 2, 4, and 6ohm subs?
2. Car subs vs Home Theater subs?
3. What woofers would you recommend in these price ranges?
$0 < $100
$100 < $200

Thank you for your time.

Reorx
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
Well, there was one I was thinking of, the Bully 15, but it's out of your price range. Also, the box parameters might be a little bit off for the Bully. Anyway, here's a link.
 
Takeereasy

Takeereasy

Audioholic General
Here's my suggestion, try to win this guy, should go for under $100 MB Quart 15" .

Even buy it now price is good.

Edit: this thing retails for about $400 most places and it comes with the full man. warranty.
 
Last edited:
R

Reorx

Full Audioholic
Thx for the reply's. Those both look like nice speakers.

Is there a sound difference between 2, 4, and 6 ohm subs?

A difference between Car subs and Home Theater subs?

Reorx
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
No, there shouldn't be a difference in sound between the different impedance subs. However, the higher impedance ones (like 6 or 8 ohm) will be easier for your amplifier to drive and would probably be the best bet. Generally, a sub is a sub, though many car subs don't concentrate on sound quality and are much more about high output. A good car sub (like a JL Audio W7) sounds great no matter where it is. However, if you wanna try to be safe, a good HT sub will be a great bet. Another option is the Dayton Titantic 15" driver (or sub kit) from Parts Express. I can't post a link, but the url is just Parts Express with a .com on the end. Search for "Titanic Sub" or just look in the speaker building area.

The part number for the 15" sub driver is 295-420. The kit is 300-764. Happy hunting!
 
O

Ohmage

Audioholic Intern
Reorx said:
I recently acuired a Ashly FTX 2001 amp for a passive sub ($100 at a garage sale. Mint condition).

I have a Yammy htr5760, and 6 ElectroVoice 110rms loud speakers.

I have a blown 15" sub.
I'd like to keep the sub housing (downward firing similar looking to the svs pb12-ultra), and just replace the woofer.

My questions are:
1. Is there a sound difference between 2, 4, and 6ohm subs?
2. Car subs vs Home Theater subs?
3. What woofers would you recommend in these price ranges?
$0 < $100
$100 < $200

Thank you for your time.

Reorx

For the $100 to $200 price range, you could get the Adire Audio Shiva 15 inch, one of the best bang for the buck subs. Here is the link:

http://www.adireaudio.com/Mobile/ShivaSeries.htm

The resistance (ohms) of the subs does not determine it's sound quality (you won't be able to hear any sonic differences), but it will determine how difficult the load is and how much power your amp will put out; generally speaking, the lower the number, the more power your amp will release (provided that it is capable and stable down to those low numbers like 2 ohms).

Almost all mobile subs are passive, meaning you need an external amplifier to drive them. For my car, I have a single 12 inch in a sealed box wired to 4 ohms, with a JL Audio 500/1 sub-amp pumping approximately 700 continuous watts into it. Comparatively, almost all HT subs are active, with built in amplifiers.


Ohmage.
 
Buckeyefan 1

Buckeyefan 1

Audioholic Ninja
Takeereasy said:
Here's my suggestion, try to win this guy, should go for under $100 MB Quart 15" .

Even buy it now price is good.

Edit: this thing retails for about $400 most places and it comes with the full man. warranty.
That is a great deal if it goes for under $100. Here's a few more you can consider. Just keep in mind, anything less than 8 ohms will really test your amp. Better car subs seem to be made a little more "heavy duty" than home subs, due to the extreme temperature differences they have to sustain, as well as the new class D amps that don't overheat. I'd stay away from used subs. You just never know the extremes the last guy put them through.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18804&item=5780238095&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18804&item=5779637331&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18803&item=5780619447&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18804&item=5780730069&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18804&item=5781275642&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18804&item=5781394007&rd=1[/SIZE]
 

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