M

miggs29

Audioholic
Hi All,

I have a Samsung LNT5271F and I need some help with the calibration. Before I hear any comments please listen to my story. I went to the local BB because I wanted to get some information about the calibration. I was quoted $300 to do as many HDMI inputs as I wanted and that their calibrators were certified. Now my question is??? Should I trust the geek squad (BB) to calibrate my LCD or should I just find someone else? Has anyone used BB for this issue? Will I get the grayscale graphs and all of the paperwork with the BB calibration? Or is this another BB ploy to make money?
 
Jack Hammer

Jack Hammer

Audioholic Field Marshall
Hi All,

I have a Samsung LNT5271F and I need some help with the calibration. Before I hear any comments please listen to my story. I went to the local BB because I wanted to get some information about the calibration. I was quoted $300 to do as many HDMI inputs as I wanted and that their calibrators were certified. Now my question is??? Should I trust the geek squad (BB) to calibrate my LCD or should I just find someone else? Has anyone used BB for this issue? Will I get the grayscale graphs and all of the paperwork with the BB calibration? Or is this another BB ploy to make money?
For less money you could buy your own Spydertv stuff and do the basic calibration yourself. If professional calibration is your preference, then I would look into a specialty shop. I'll write down my settings and post them, each set may be a little different but it will get you in ballpark while your deciding.

Jack
 
E

EJ1

Audioholic Chief
Get you a calibration disc, an X-Rite Eye-One Display LT colorimeter, and read this: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

You'll save money and you'll be able to calibrate future displays with the knowledge you gain.

If you don't want to mess with that, find the calibration thread for your particular display at AVS Forums, pick one that most everyone likes, and use that as a baseline to configure it to your needs.
 
Jack Hammer

Jack Hammer

Audioholic Field Marshall
See if these help any.

Picture mode: Movie
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 44
Sharpness: 20
Color: 70
Tint: G45/R55
Backlight: 4
Color Tone: Warm1
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Detailed settings are all to Off

These were set using a SpyderTV colorometer and basic software.

Jack
 
bandphan

bandphan

Banned
and just a note: calibration typically isnt a one time thing, and will need to be done multiple times over the life of the display.
 
Last edited:
M

miggs29

Audioholic
Thanks for the settings. Do I need to do anything with the white balance? RGB offset and Gain? It seem that there are a lot of thing to change. However, I do think that I am going to buy the spyder2 express. I like fixing things!!!!
 
E

EJ1

Audioholic Chief
Thanks for the settings. Do I need to do anything with the white balance? RGB offset and Gain? It seem that there are a lot of thing to change. However, I do think that I am going to buy the spyder2 express. I like fixing things!!!!
I've read multiple threads stating that the Eye-One Display LT is far superior than the Spyder2, but please do some research before ordering.
 
Jack Hammer

Jack Hammer

Audioholic Field Marshall
I only have personal experience with the SpyderTV, since that's what I own. I can back up what Bandphan said about recalibrating every now and then. My settings changed somewhat after 3-4 months, and very little after that. Last time I ran it, around Halloween, the settings stayed the same.

I will point out that with the Spyder line there are different versions. I have the one made for TV's. I've also seen one made for computers, I really couldn't tell you or even guess what the difference is, when I got mine, I just went for the one made for a TV because that's what I planned on using it with. In retrospect though, I would have ponied up for the Pro version, as the one I have doesn't calibrate advanced settings. One thing that's nice is I can still upgrade the software for a fee.

Jack
 

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