JL Subs help to decide

[gercho]

Hi, I´m trying to build a DIY Sub (I was looking at a Velo CHT until I read this forum) and trying to follow the guidelines of Annunaki, Chris and TLS Guy but I live in Argentina so it´s hard to get some of the stuff you recomend.
I've found a dealer of JL with the following models: 12W0 U$S 126 - 12W1v2 U$S170 - 12W3v2 U$S292 - 12W6v2 U$S548.
The thing is I have a limited budget so I could build one w6, two w3 or four of the w1/w0.
I would like to know your opinion, so I can decide what to choose and how many.

Thanks in advance.
Germán.

Sorry, I've forgot a couple of things, the Subs are for a HT (2 old JBL N28II, center JBL EC25 and 2 JBL E10 as sorround). The room size is 17Ft W - 16Ft L and 8Ft tall.
The receiver is a Denon AVR-2808Ci.

 

[lsiberian]

Hi, I´m trying to build a DIY Sub (I was looking at a Velo CHT until I read this forum) and trying to follow the guidelines of Annunaki, Chris and TLS Guy but I live in Argentina so it´s hard to get some of the stuff you recomend.
I've found a dealer of JL with the following models: 12W0 U$S 126 - 12W1v2 U$S170 - 12W3v2 U$S292 - 12W6v2 U$S548.
The thing is I have a limited budget so I could build one w6, two w3 or four of the w1/w0.
I would like to know your opinion, so I can decide what to choose and how many.

Thanks in advance.
Germán.

Sorry, I've forgot a couple of things, the Subs are for a HT (2 old JBL N28II, center JBL EC25 and 2 JBL E10 as sorround). The room size is 17Ft W - 16Ft L and 8Ft tall.
The receiver is a Denon AVR-2808Ci.

I suggest getting the 12w6v2. It can be built in the Kappa box detailed in this section of the forum. It models very well in that box.

Always plan for the future. It's much easier to add another 12w6 down the line than upgrade to two.

1 great sub is better than 2 good ones IMO. Just remember to place it with the crawl test and you'll be golden.

On a side note I've always wanted to visit South America. It's on my last 2 continents to visit list along with Antartica.

 

[Warpdrv]

What is your limited budget...? What amp are you looking at or have at this point...

Seems that you could get a 12w7 driver for the same price as that w6 http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=203305362&listingid=42043811

That was a quick search, I'm sure you could find them cheaper then that even...

Personally, I would buy this driver over all those.... http://cgi.ebay.com/Audiopulse-TC-Sounds-AXIS-Aluminum-12-SUB-Subwoofer_W0QQitemZ170339124894QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item27a900c69e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

 

[TLS Guy]

I suggest getting the 12w6v2. It can be built in the Kappa box detailed in this section of the forum. It models very well in that box.

Always plan for the future. It's much easier to add another 12w6 down the line than upgrade to two.

1 great sub is better than 2 good ones IMO. Just remember to place it with the crawl test and you'll be golden.

On a side note I've always wanted to visit South America. It's on my last 2 continents to visit list along with Antartica.

The right answer again Isiberian!

 

[gercho]

Thanks for your advice Isiberian, I was thinking that two w3 would be better than one w6, but as I'm no expert I was wrong. I've read several post in this forum and saw the perfect kappa post, but I can't get and Infinity Sub down here and the other driver mentioned was the W7 (I can get one of those but it's out of my budget U$S1070). I didn't see that the w6 was a good option for the kappa build. Could you post the link to that post? Is there any modifications to the original design? Thanks again.

 

[gercho]

Thanks for your reply Warpdrv. The problem with the drivers is that in Argentina you don't have many options to choose. It was very hard to find the JL's. There's plenty of Pionner, Alpine, Rockford Fastgate, etc. Not one of this brands is mentioned in this forum.
The w7 is an excelent diver, but it cost U$S1070 here, so it's not an option for me. For the moment I'm using an old receiver (Technics SA-AX7) to power two no brand subs (ten years old). But in the future I'm going to buy an ep1500.

 

[gercho]

Isiberian, I forgot to tell you, If you came down here, dont forget to visit Calafate (very beautiful place), Iguazu Falls and of course Ciudad de Buenos Aires (very good food (asado) and a lot of beautiful womens).

 

[lsiberian]

Thanks for your reply Warpdrv. The problem with the drivers is that in Argentina you don't have many options to choose. It was very hard to find the JL's. There's plenty of Pionner, Alpine, Rockford Fastgate, etc. Not one of this brands is mentioned in this forum.
The w7 is an excelent diver, but it cost U$S1070 here, so it's not an option for me. For the moment I'm using an old receiver (Technics SA-AX7) to power two no brand subs (ten years old). But in the future I'm going to buy an ep1500.

You don't want to experiment on this build. Go with proven research.

I like the 4 cu ft around 22 hz tune for the 12w6v2. Which is close enough to the Kappa that you won't have much of a difference. The only tweak I might make is to raise the tuning a tad, but I don't see a truly audible difference and believe your efforts are better placed in build a quality nice looking enclosure.

Suprisingly the Kappa box is not only limited to the Kappa. It can be used with a bunch of different drivers. I plan to use it with a TC Sounds drivers myself.

The improvements from the w3 to w6v2 are significant.
Even from w6v1 to w6v2 is huge.

the JL Audio w6v2s are on par with the Infinity Kappa Perfect drivers. The w7's have more output potential, but at for home applications you'll be fine with the w6v2's

You will want to find your local pro audio store. You'll need a couple of item there to get this thing working. I'm sure the tools and materials will be much easier to come by.

Please start a thread for your build and give good documentation for other folks.

 

[gercho]

Great advice Isiberian. I think I'm going to build the Kappa box because of the wife. 4 cu ft is too much for her, the original kappa design is 25" tall by 22,5" and that's the limit size for her. I was considering a sealed box (to save space and have room for more subs) but the limited selection of drives make me stay away (you need a very good one to work properly). As soon as I start the proyect I will create a thread and post many pictures for you. Thanks again.

 

[annunaki]

I thought I responded to this thread before??

Guess not.

If you have access to the W3v3 drivers, you could do two of those as opposed to just 1 W6v2. They are of great quality and solid linearity. I doubt many people would ever notice a difference between a W3v3 & a W6v2 if both were within their linear range. The W6v2 will offer a tad more output.

Do they have the 13W6v2 available within your budget??

 

[gercho]

Thanks Annunaki. I was looking to know just that. I've read the specification of both and was a bit confused of what to do. That's why I started this trhead. On one hand you have one 12" with an Xmax of 16,5mm or two 12" with an Xmax of 13mm. Isiberian sent me the way of one powerfull over two less powerfull subs. The problem with the selection is budget, I'm trying to stay below U$S600 for the drivers. Here one W6 cost U$S548 and every W3 cost U$S292. Besides that is the size of the box, the wife don't want anything bigger than a 25" square. I know I'm giving many restrictions but I was trying to build something to last a few years. That's why I'm bodering you guys, not to make mistakes. Thanks again to all of you for your help.
I'll keep reading your your advices.
I almost forgot, the 13w6 is U$S700. If I strech my budget it's really worth the price difference? and in wich box? and wich box for the W3s?

 

[lsiberian]

Thanks Annunaki. I was looking to know just that. I've read the specification of both and was a bit confused of what to do. That's why I started this trhead. On one hand you have one 12" with an Xmax of 16,5mm or two 12" with an Xmax of 13mm. Isiberian sent me the way of one powerfull over two less powerfull subs. The problem with the selection is budget, I'm trying to stay below U$S600 for the drivers. Here one W6 cost U$S548 and every W3 cost U$S292. Besides that is the size of the box, the wife don't want anything bigger than a 25" square. I know I'm giving many restrictions but I was trying to build something to last a few years. That's why I'm bodering you guys, not to make mistakes. Thanks again to all of you for your help.
I'll keep reading your your advices.
I almost forgot, the 13w6 is U$S700. If I strech my budget it's really worth the price difference? and in wich box? and wich box for the W3s?

A single 12w6v2 is enough for 99 percent of the population. Most folks on the this thread are in the other 1 percent. KISS IMO. Follow the build suggestions a single sub is easier to setup a less likely to anger the wife.

 

[annunaki]

The 13W6v2 is near equal to the 12W7 in terms of linear displacement. The only problem is that it requires a 6.0 fft^3 enclosure tuned to 20hz with a rather large 3.0" x 16" vent 43" long tuning at 20hz.

If the W3's are actually W3v3's, that would be the route to go. Other wise the 13W6v2 would be a nice option.

The 12W3v3 models well in a 5.5ft^3 enclosure with a 2.5" x 16" vent 40" long. This tunes it to 21hz.

12W6v2 works very well in a 4.5 ft^3 enclosure with a 2.75" x 16" vent 54" long tuning to 21hz.


All of the above enclosures result in an f3 of 19hz anechoic. The 13w6v2 models about 2db higher in output across the entire usable range. Although using 2 of the 12W3v3 would give you more output as well as allow for better in-room response capabilities.

Thanks Annunaki. I was looking to know just that. I've read the specification of both and was a bit confused of what to do. That's why I started this trhead. On one hand you have one 12" with an Xmax of 16,5mm or two 12" with an Xmax of 13mm. Isiberian sent me the way of one powerfull over two less powerfull subs. The problem with the selection is budget, I'm trying to stay below U$S600 for the drivers. Here one W6 cost U$S548 and every W3 cost U$S292. Besides that is the size of the box, the wife don't want anything bigger than a 25" square. I know I'm giving many restrictions but I was trying to build something to last a few years. That's why I'm bodering you guys, not to make mistakes. Thanks again to all of you for your help.
I'll keep reading your your advices.
I almost forgot, the 13w6 is U$S700. If I strech my budget it's really worth the price difference? and in wich box? and wich box for the W3s?

 

[lsiberian]

The 13W6v2 is near equal to the 12W7 in terms of linear displacement. The only problem is that it requires a 6.0 fft^3 enclosure tuned to 20hz with a rather large 3.0" x 16" vent 43" long tuning at 20hz.

If the W3's are actually W3v3's, that would be the route to go. Other wise the 13W6v2 would be a nice option.

The 12W3v3 models well in a 5.5ft^3 enclosure with a 2.5" x 16" vent 40" long. This tunes it to 21hz.

12W6v2 works very well in a 4.5 ft^3 enclosure with a 2.75" x 16" vent 54" long tuning to 21hz.


All of the above enclosures result in an f3 of 19hz anechoic. The 13w6v2 models about 2db higher in output across the entire usable range. Although using 2 of the 12W3v3 would give you more output as well as allow for better in-room response capabilities.

Nice summary.

You can build 2 subs or 1. If you build 2 you do have some advantages, but ou might only get away with 1. I know at this time I can't have more than a single sub due to my room.

 

[gercho]

Thanks again Annunaki, very detailed answer. Maybe I can get away with two W3v3 if the wife let me use the space. Can I use the Kappa enclosure for the W3v3 ? If not, an enclosure of 25"x25"x25" with the port you mentioned would be enough?

 

[annunaki]

Thanks again Annunaki, very detailed answer. Maybe I can get away with two W3v3 if the wife let me use the space. Can I use the Kappa enclosure for the W3v3 ? If not, an enclosure of 25"x25"x25" with the port you mentioned would be enough?

A 25 x 25 x 25 enclosure would be 6.171 cubic feet after port displacement for the W3v3 enclosure. This would allow .671 ft^3 for driver & bracing displacement.

So to answer your question, yes.

 

[gercho]

A 25 x 25 x 25 enclosure would be 6.171 cubic feet after port displacement for the W3v3 enclosure. This would allow .671 ft^3 for driver & bracing displacement.

So to answer your question, yes.

Sorry to bother you again Annunaki, I'm thinking in buying the 12W6 because of the DVC design. I'm a little short of money and was about to use my Technics SA-AX7 to power the sub (support 4ohm speakers in stereo). The question is, I've read the JL site an they explain how to connect two channels to one DVC sub but when I downloaded the manual of the 12W6 it's not specified. I'm unsderstanding it right? I'm planing to buy an EP1500 down the road, but want to use the sub meanwhile. Thanks!!

 

[annunaki]

You can use one channel of an amplifier to each VC. Simply ensure they output the same voltage and you should have no issues. For instance you would run the left channel to voice coil 1 and the right channel to voice coil 2.

 

[gercho]

A couple of pics of the set up while waiting for driver

I was a bit bored so I took a couple of pics, and even manage to get the manual of the old woofers.

 

[lsiberian]

I was a bit bored so I took a couple of pics, and even manage to get the manual of the old woofers.

Boredom is a dangerous disease.