ISO Polk RM3000 Satellites or Equivalent

R

rastacat

Audiophyte
I purchased Polk RM3000 Satellite/Subwoofer system back in the early 90's. System has served me well, the subwoofer/midrange module is still pumping out great bass but my satellites are getting tired. One of the mids on the satellite has a small tear that makes it crackle at precisely the right frequency. Does anyone have a pair of these older satellites they would like to sell?

Also, I spoke to a local stereo shop and they suggested matching a set of Definitive satellites to my existing subwoofer. Was wondering how closely satellites from a different company can be matched frequency-wise, and if this would be a good solution to my issue.

I REALLY love this subwoofer - the bass is punchy and lively, and I actually have to keep my bass knob set at about 25% before it gets to be too much. I would love to either find a good match for new satellites or find some original satellites for sale in good condition. Thanks!
 
ski2xblack

ski2xblack

Audioholic Samurai
The original specs for the RM3000 claim they cross over at 100hz, 88db/w sensitivity, sats are sealed enclosures, 8 ohm impedance. Since you have no control of that sub's output relative to the mains (aside from placement nearer or further from walls/corners), you want to make sure whatever sats you choose are very close to those specs.

Something like this:

http://www.miragespeakers.com/na-en/products/nanosat-specifications/

Maybe an NHT super zero, but they dig down to 85hz, which would not be ideal.

http://www.nhthifi.com/Bookshelf-speaker-SuperZero-2-0

I don't think the DT monitors would be a good match. Even the lowest of the line goes down to below 60hz. Too much overlap with that passive sub.
 
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R

rastacat

Audiophyte
I don't think the DT monitors would be a good match. Even the lowest of the line goes down to below 60hz. Too much overlap with that passive sub.
Meaning too much bass gets fed to the satellites? I am a relative noob, but have a teachable mind!
 
ski2xblack

ski2xblack

Audioholic Samurai
Meaning too much bass gets fed to the satellites? I am a relative noob, but have a teachable mind!
Correct. Using the DT promonitor 800's, for example, the frequencies from 60-100hz would be produced by both the sats and the sub. You'll end up with overly thick, poorly defined, boomy bass. Your problem is to find something that matches up well enough to that passive sub.

The bass from that passive Polk bass module can tend to be pretty thick anyway, and it really doesn't dig too deep (-3db@42hz per the manual). Either of the two speakers I linked to would probably work well enough with it for now, and when you decide to ditch the Polk and replace it with a Dayton powered sub, you will have a nice 2.1 system that would smoke the original RM3000 for a very affordable price.
 
R

rastacat

Audiophyte
Well, the first ones you listed aren't really suitable for wall-mounting, the Super Zeros looked like a good fit except that they are only 75 watts where my amp is 100 watts per channel. I would hate to risk frying them at higher volume levels although I know that is unlikely.

Thanks a bunch for your info, though, the education is good. If you or anybody else has any other suggestions, I am all for it.

So is the high frequency response of the sats less important than the low frequency response? Basically it seems like you are saying I need to match the impedence and try to come as close as possible to the crossover on the low end of the frequency response, no? I think the reason the sub crosses over at 100 is that the sub actually contains 3 speakers - a woofer and two large-ish mids, I think around 7 or 8 inches. Then the cones on the sats are 3 1/2 inches with a dome tweeter.
 
ski2xblack

ski2xblack

Audioholic Samurai
Well, the first ones you listed aren't really suitable for wall-mounting, the Super Zeros looked like a good fit except that they are only 75 watts where my amp is 100 watts per channel. I would hate to risk frying them at higher volume levels although I know that is unlikely.
As long as you are not clipping your amp, those NHT's can handle the power. It's better to have more than you need than not enough, when it comes to amp power.

Thanks a bunch for your info, though, the education is good. If you or anybody else has any other suggestions, I am all for it.
There are other options out there. NHT super zero's fit the bill quite well, particularly if you're wall mounting them.

So is the high frequency response of the sats less important than the low frequency response? Basically it seems like you are saying I need to match the impedence and try to come as close as possible to the crossover on the low end of the frequency response, no? I think the reason the sub crosses over at 100 is that the sub actually contains 3 speakers - a woofer and two large-ish mids, I think around 7 or 8 inches. Then the cones on the sats are 3 1/2 inches with a dome tweeter.
Don't worry too much about the size of drivers and such. I'll try to explain this, but be warned, I don't know what the hell I'm talking about.

The sub's response covers 42-100hz. Frequencies over 100hz are not reproduced because it is a bandpass type enclosure (two active 6" drivers on a baffle bisecting the inside of the sub's enclosure; one side a sealed chamber, the other coupled to the 10" passive).

The original satellites inherent low frequency response rolls off at ~100hz. They are sealed, so they roll off more gently than a ported box would.

The important thing to consider is that since this is a passive 2.1 system, you're stuck with whatever loudness and bandwidth the Polk sub produces. The original satellites are designed to blend smoothly with the sub, so it is important to make sure any replacements are as similar as possible regarding their low end response and sensitivity.

The NHT's are close enough in these regards, and likely a big step up sonically speaking from the original Polk satellites. The originals had those cool, non-resonant composite enclosures, but the drivers themselves weren't great, particularly those mylar tweeters. They were better than the Bose systems they were designed to compete with, but not as good as what's in the NHTs.
 
R

rastacat

Audiophyte
Budget constraints are always a consideration!

I did look into the RM7s and RM8s, was wondering if either of you have an opinion on either of these two, since the specs match my original sats much more closely. I don't know if the RM8s are more of a marketing gimmick, but having two mids per satellite pointing in different directions seems like it would make for much more of a full listening experience.

Thanks to you both for treating a noob with such class - I belong to various cigar forums where your mileage may vary with regards to being treated with respect!
 
ski2xblack

ski2xblack

Audioholic Samurai
The RM7 or RM8 Polk satellites would both work well, as far as blending with your existing sub. The RM7's will be essentially similar to your old sats, but the RM8's will produce a more expansive effect you might find enjoyable.
 
R

rastacat

Audiophyte
Anybody have an opinion on the RM8's? Is my money better spent on the Super Zeros?
 
M

Michael Julian

Audiophyte
I purchased Polk RM3000 Satellite/Subwoofer system back in the early 90's. System has served me well, the subwoofer/midrange module is still pumping out great bass but my satellites are getting tired. One of the mids on the satellite has a small tear that makes it crackle at precisely the right frequency.
I am having the same issue. Did you get anything figured out? Thanks for any help...
 
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