Is this an adequate way to run a dedicated 20 amp line for audio purposes(pics included)?

[mtrot]

I recently had two 20 amp 12 awg lines run to the wall where my audio system is. My intent and understanding was that they would run continuous wires from the breaker box to the two outlets in the wall.

Well, when I went up in the attic, I saw that they used some sort of junction boxes, one for each line. Maybe they already had some lengths of wire that they could connect together and not have to buy some new long length of wire. It looks like the hot wires are going through some sort of plastic connector. I'm not sure of the conducting capacity of those plastic connectors. The whole point of running the dedicated lines was to achieve the maximum current delivery that I can. I do use this big Krell power amp that Krell says needs to be connected to a 20 amp line. Thoughts?

If doing it the way they did CAN compromise my current delivery, short of starting over and running new lines, is there a better way to make the current wires connect without any current loss? Thanks much for any advice.

 

[TLS Guy]

I recently had two 20 amp 12 awg lines run to the wall where my audio system is. My intent and understanding was that they would run continuous wires from the breaker box to the two outlets in the wall.

Well, when I went up in the attic, I saw that they used some sort of junction boxes, one for each line. Maybe they already had some lengths of wire that they could connect together and not have to buy some new long length of wire. It looks like the hot wires are going through some sort of plastic connector. I'm not sure of the conducting capacity of those plastic connectors. The whole point of running the dedicated lines was to achieve the maximum current delivery that I can. I do use this big Krell power amp that Krell says needs to be connected to a 20 amp line. Thoughts?

If doing it the way they did CAN compromise my current delivery, short of starting over and running new lines, is there a better way to make the current wires connect without any current loss? Thanks much for any advice.

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View attachment 61616

The cable is yellow, so it is 20 amp cable. The problem is from those pictures I have no idea where those wires are going.

If you want two 20 amp circuits, then you need two yellow lines with no junction going back to individual 20 amp breakers. That is two wire runs, two breakers and two outlets.

There is no other way to do this.

 

[-Jim-]

I'm not so quick to condemn this install. They look like independent circuits, and not interconnected to each other, or anything else based on the photo. It's not the way I'd do it, but it looks close to being code (at least where I live) if the junction boxes (JBs) have covers on them and are somehow labeled. Those look like IDEAL Push-In Wire Connectors which meet current code and are UL Listed, CSA Certified, and rated to 600V; that are used to extend the conductors - hopefully directly to the outlet boxes.

The cables are loose and I'd make certain to secure them properly. The JBs appear to be installed just as a intermediate stage for installation convenience. Perhaps the cables were cut too short? Or?

The easiest way to check is to plug it a lamp into one of the new wall outlets (or a radio if you are alone and turn it up loud) go back to the Main Breaker Panel and toggle off the new 20 amp breaker. The light should go off. Then leave the breaker off, and try plugging in the lamp to the other new outlet. The lamp should light. That will mean the circuits are independent. Now I have no way to ascertain if there is a branch off either circuit without testing every light or plug in the house, but I doubt it, as it would be just extra work to do so. And no rationale for anyone to do so.

I hope this is helpful.

 

[mtrot]

The cable is yellow, so it is 20 amp cable. The problem is from those pictures I have no idea where those wires are going.

If you want two 20 amp circuits, then you need two yellow lines with no junction going back to individual 20 amp breakers. That is two wire runs, two breakers and two outlets.

There is no other way to do this.

The lines go in one direction to the breaker panel, and in the other direction to the outlets. My concern is about the adequacy of the little junction connectors they used.

 

[mtrot]

I'm not so quick to condemn this install. They look like independent circuits, and not interconnected to each other, or anything else based on the photo. It's not the way I'd do it, but it looks close to being code (at least where I live) if the junction boxes (JBs) have covers on them and are somehow labeled. Those look like IDEAL Push-In Wire Connectors which meet current code and are UL Listed, CSA Certified, and rated to 600V; that are used to extend the conductors - hopefully directly to the outlet boxes.

The cables are loose and I'd make certain to secure them properly. The JBs appear to be installed just as a intermediate stage for installation convenience. Perhaps the cables were cut too short? Or?

The easiest way to check is to plug it a lamp into one of the new wall outlets (or a radio if you are alone and turn it up loud) go back to the Main Breaker Panel and toggle off the new 20 amp breaker. The light should go off. Then leave the breaker off, and try plugging in the lamp to the other new outlet. The lamp should light. That will mean the circuits are independent. Now I have no way to ascertain if there is a branch off either circuit without testing every light or plug in the house, but I doubt it, as it would be just extra work to do so. And no rationale for anyone to do so.

I hope this is helpful.

Those junction boxes are located around 1/3 of the way from the breaker panel to the outlets. I do think the connectors I have are these from your link.

InSure PushIn Wire Connector Model 34 4Port Yel

In-Sure-Push-In-34: Ergonomic design for easy grip and comfortable installation Low insertion force for fast and easy connections Compact size makes installation easy Clear shell gives visual verification of connection Tough, UL 94V-2 flame-retardant shel

www.idealind.com

I also believe there are two lines because they showed me the two breakers in the panel that govern the the two lines.

 

[TLS Guy]

Those junction boxes are located around 1/3 of the way from the breaker panel to the outlets. I do think the connectors I have are these from your link.

InSure PushIn Wire Connector Model 34 4Port Yel

In-Sure-Push-In-34: Ergonomic design for easy grip and comfortable installation Low insertion force for fast and easy connections Compact size makes installation easy Clear shell gives visual verification of connection Tough, UL 94V-2 flame-retardant shel

www.idealind.com

I also believe there are two lines because they showed me the two breakers in the panel that govern the the two lines.

If you are certain there are two independent breakers you are fine. Verify and make sure. I could not tell that from the picture.

 

[-Jim-]

The lines go in one direction to the breaker panel, and in the other direction to the outlets. My concern is about the adequacy of the little junction connectors they used.

.
As I stated those connectors are rated for this duty and are UL Listed, CSA Certified, and rated to 600V. They are specified to handle solid conductors 12 to 20 AWG - which works for the cables in the photo.

(FYI - I am a licensed Electrician with Electronics Technician level training some time ago.)

I hope this is helpful.

 

[BMXTRIX]

My concern is about the adequacy of the little junction connectors they used.

This has definitely been addressed. There is no loss in capacity when using push in wire connectors like those shown and they meet code just fine.

I expect, with the attic work that was done, that they broke the wiring into two runs with a splice in the middle to allow them to more easily get the wiring in place without having to open up drywall, or to minimize the impact on your drywall, or maybe just to make it a faster job overall. I run of two wires to the main panel, then two individual runs to each dedicated outlet. Then splice them in the middle. There is a reason why installers sometimes do some things that seem nonsensical to those that don't do this type of work regularly.

Nothing to worry about at all here and you are good to go for years and years to come.