Installing In-wall speakers

L

Loudnhear

Audiophyte
Hi, we moved into a new home. The home is wired for 5.1 surround system. However, when I looked to install in wall speakers, I noticed the box (provided by the builder) is next to a stud (I believe). Picture is attached. A question I have is, to install the in-wall speaker, should I cut the drywall away from stud so that the speaker can hold on to the wall from all 4 sides? If so, I believe I need to patch the existing hole (as it is right next to the stud). Please advise.

this is the speaker I intend to install in the wall:
Micca M-6S 6.5 Inch 2-Way in-Wall Speaker for Home Theater, Whole House Audio, Indoor or Covered Outdoor Areas, 6.5" Poly Woofer, 1" Pivoting Silk Tweeter, White, Paintable, Each https://a.co/d/f9wEAG2

Attached is the picture of the outlet on the wall:
 

Attachments

Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
Hi, we moved into a new home. The home is wired for 5.1 surround system. However, when I looked to install in wall speakers, I noticed the box (provided by the builder) is next to a stud (I believe). Picture is attached. A question I have is, to install the in-wall speaker, should I cut the drywall away from stud so that the speaker can hold on to the wall from all 4 sides? If so, I believe I need to patch the existing hole (as it is right next to the stud). Please advise.

this is the speaker I intend to install in the wall:
Micca M-6S 6.5 Inch 2-Way in-Wall Speaker for Home Theater, Whole House Audio, Indoor or Covered Outdoor Areas, 6.5" Poly Woofer, 1" Pivoting Silk Tweeter, White, Paintable, Each https://a.co/d/f9wEAG2

Attached is the picture of the outlet on the wall:
That will depend on the mounting system. Those speakers have tabs that rotate in behind the drywall and the drywall gets clamped between the tab and the speaker frame. The tabs rotate clockwise, so the bottom right tab will rotate to the right side, but the bottom left tab will rotate downward, which will hit the stud if it is located below the box as you have indicated.

I can think of two options, assuming that the box will be removed. One is to patch the hole and move the speaker higher to allow room for the lower left tab to rotate downward (be sure that the tab is not behind the patch but behind solid drywall). The other option is cut the speaker opening right above the stud. That should leave a large enough opening that you could use a wood chisel to chisel away part of the stud and leave a space where the lower left tab would rotate into.
 
L

Loudnhear

Audiophyte
Thank you. That is what I was afraid of. It’s a new home and I was trying to avoid patching up a wall or cutting the stud. I think I’ll go with patching up the hole. Thanks again!
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
Remove the tab, drive a screw through the side plastic of the speaker into the stud. This holds the speaker COMPLETELY firmly in place and doesn't require you to patch or anything else. While I don't prefer to do things this way, there are tons of times when stud placement where I need to place a speaker isn't ideal and I am forced to do so. I've found it works great. Be aware that if you're using a speaker with a friction grill rather than a magnetic grill, you need to have the screw far enough away from the grill as to not interfere with it.

Proving once again that builders are clueless when it comes to AV... That box should not be there at all, so you can place the speaker between the studs as you choose.
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
Remove the tab, drive a screw through the side plastic of the speaker into the stud. This holds the speaker COMPLETELY firmly in place and doesn't require you to patch or anything else. While I don't prefer to do things this way, there are tons of times when stud placement where I need to place a speaker isn't ideal and I am forced to do so. I've found it works great. Be aware that if you're using a speaker with a friction grill rather than a magnetic grill, you need to have the screw far enough away from the grill as to not interfere with it.

Proving once again that builders are clueless when it comes to AV... That box should not be there at all, so you can place the speaker between the studs as you choose.
I know I am stating some of the obvious to an experienced installer but...

The speaker sits flush on the wall and the locking tabs protrude into the opening. There looks to be about 3/4 inch of the frame that overlaps the drywall all around. Are you suggesting to drive a screw through the front of the frame in the bottom left corner? The front grill leaves a 3/4 inch bezel all around so the part of the frame that covers the stud is not covered by the grill. How would you get a screw in sideways without removing the woofer and using the woofer opening? Sorry, but I can't envision your method so I am curious how you work around these situations.

 
Kingnoob

Kingnoob

Audioholic Samurai
Thank you. That is what I was afraid of. It’s a new home and I was trying to avoid patching up a wall or cutting the stud. I think I’ll go with patching up the hole. Thanks again!
Real shame they leave such holes in your walls for you to patch ,..
I really don’t know a lot about in wall speakers best of luck installing them.!!!
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
Are you suggesting to drive a screw through the front of the frame in the bottom left corner?
No, but close.

Pull the screws out of the holes where they are attached to the dog ears. Pull the dog ears off, since they aren't useful to you. Then, drive a screw through that hole at a 45 degree angle. Sometimes I find it easier to pre-drill a small pilot hold to get the screw started. This allows the screw to sit well under the edge of the speaker grill when you attach it and the screw could be removed easily enough in the future, if you have need.

Use the screw hole positions they've already given you. Do NOT go into the frame itself for sure. :D That would suck and there is no material in the plastic to make that the best option. Use the channels which are already provided. Three on the left side are there, three on the right. Use what is best for you and use long enough screws to grab into the stud cleanly.
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
No, but close.

Pull the screws out of the holes where they are attached to the dog ears. Pull the dog ears off, since they aren't useful to you. Then, drive a screw through that hole at a 45 degree angle. Sometimes I find it easier to pre-drill a small pilot hold to get the screw started. This allows the screw to sit well under the edge of the speaker grill when you attach it and the screw could be removed easily enough in the future, if you have need.

Use the screw hole positions they've already given you. Do NOT go into the frame itself for sure. :D That would suck and there is no material in the plastic to make that the best option. Use the channels which are already provided. Three on the left side are there, three on the right. Use what is best for you and use long enough screws to grab into the stud cleanly.
Ah, roger, makes sense now. That should work without issue.
 
Q

quattro_98

Audioholic Intern
Another option is the install the speaker in the wall far enough away from the box so the mounting tabs clear it (and the stud). Then you run the wire out of the box to the speaker. You can just cover the box with a blank faceplate (which isn't pretty, but provides easy access).
 
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