Infinity hps-250 not responding

J

James_Ngo

Audioholic Intern
I have had this sub since it was launched and never had any problem or issue.

Not sure when the issue started, since the power light indicator was always on. My floor speaker was playing so nice that I did not givet any thought. until bout 2-3 weeks ago that that I finally realized my sub was not producing any bass.

Replaced all the wires, tried different speaker sitting, played familiar audio/video with no luck.

End up buying another receiver and still no luck. Any thought an what it could be? And what are my option(s). Hate to trash it, since it is in fairly good condition with minimal use or over powered.

Recently purchased a rw-12 to replace. Now if the hps250 is repairable. Would love to have it as 2nd sub or use in another zone/room.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Typically it's amp failure. You can use another amp if that's the issue or have the current amp repaired. You could test the driver with another amp, even your receiver could be used for that but you'll need to do a little dismantling again....
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
As lovin said check the driver which you can do with a battery. Also confirm all speakers set to small and your not in a pure or direct mode. Which avr?
 
J

James_Ngo

Audioholic Intern
Wish I found this forum earlier, it would of save me some money from buying a replacement avr and subwoofer.

Found the problem with the issue that am having.

1. pre-out on my old receiver is dead or shorted causing the problem.
2. The built in x-over is also faulty or failed or maybe its just the knob in front is faulty.

End up using speaker level input to sub from avr. As long as I dont touch the x-over knob I should be good.

Now the I have an extra avr n sub, might just set it up as an independent system in another room or zone 2.

Any recommendation on a replacement amp? Cant find any specs on the hps250, besides that its a 250w amp.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Wish I found this forum earlier, it would of save me some money from buying a replacement avr and subwoofer.

Found the problem with the issue that am having.

1. pre-out on my old receiver is dead or shorted causing the problem.
2. The built in x-over is also faulty or failed or maybe its just the knob in front is faulty.

End up using speaker level input to sub from avr. As long as I dont touch the x-over knob I should be good.

Now the I have an extra avr n sub, might just set it up as an independent system in another room or zone 2.

Any recommendation on a replacement amp? Cant find any specs on the hps250, besides that its a 250w amp.
Could be in (1) that the rca input on the sub is faulty? Or did you narrow it down?

Built in crossover on the sub (and is it only a low pass filter or does that sub actually provide a crossover for the sub/speakers?).

ps Replacement plate amps at parts-express.com to see if there's a size match. Otherwise you can add many other types of amps by making appropriate wiring bypass of the sub's current plate amp.
 
J

James_Ngo

Audioholic Intern
Could be in (1) that the rca input on the sub is faulty? Or did you narrow it down?

Built in crossover on the sub (and is it only a low pass filter or does that sub actually provide a crossover for the sub/speakers?).

ps Replacement plate amps at parts-express.com to see if there's a size match. Otherwise you can add many other types of amps by making appropriate wiring bypass of the sub's current plate amp.
Narrowed it down to the pre-out on the avr. I used a 3.5/rca to sub and it responded with low freq sound test only after fiddling with x-over knob or maybe the knob is just a LPF.

Are those plate amps easy to wire? Seen videos where you have to solder and replace this and that. Bad enough as it is, with making a cut out for the replacement amp is enough work as it is.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Narrowed it down to the pre-out on the avr. I used a 3.5/rca to sub and it responded with low freq sound test only after fiddling with x-over knob or maybe the knob is just a LPF.

Are those plate amps easy to wire? Seen videos where you have to solder and replace this and that. Bad enough as it is, with making a cut out for the replacement amp is enough work as it is.
So sound was on/off depending on how that knob on the sub was handled? Is that the issue?

More likely the knob is a simple low pass filter altho some subs do have the capability of high passing speakers, some by line level some by speaker level. A sub driver is a fairly simple thing to wire and soldering may not be necessary depending on how you want to make connections (wire nuts or butt connectors for example), just have to make access for the wires like drilling a hole in the old amp/cabinet for access if using an external amp. Plate amp dims/cutout match of course would need to be a match and not always possible. Doubt there's any help via Infinity/Harman/Samsung.
 
J

James_Ngo

Audioholic Intern
So sound was on/off depending on how that knob on the sub was handled? Is that the issue?

More likely the knob is a simple low pass filter altho some subs do have the capability of high passing speakers, some by line level some by speaker level. A sub driver is a fairly simple thing to wire and soldering may not be necessary depending on how you want to make connections (wire nuts or butt connectors for example), just have to make access for the wires like drilling a hole in the old amp/cabinet for access if using an external amp. Plate amp dims/cutout match of course would need to be a match and not always possible. Doubt there's any help via Infinity/Harman/Samsung.
Yes, knob was the culprit. However, now that I'm learning more with setup and Configuration. Since buying the sub back then, I always had it set to 90Hz, its sounded great with my floors. Arm with new knowledge (thank you everyone) I lowered the frequency to 80Hz then to 60Hz and wow what a huge difference in terms of response.

So the questions I have now is. If,
1. I have the sub set to 80 or 60Hz, what range should I set the x-over on the avr for the floors?
2. How high should I set the level on avr.?

Yeah, I doubt manufacturers will have any since the sub was released back sometime in 99.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Yes, knob was the culprit. However, now that I'm learning more with setup and Configuration. Since buying the sub back then, I always had it set to 90Hz, its sounded great with my floors. Arm with new knowledge (thank you everyone) I lowered the frequency to 80Hz then to 60Hz and wow what a huge difference in terms of response.

So the questions I have now is. If,
1. I have the sub set to 80 or 60Hz, what range should I set the x-over on the avr for the floors?
2. How high should I set the level on avr.?

Yeah, I doubt manufacturers will have any since the sub was released back sometime in 99.
1. You should use the maximum frequency setting on the low pass filter if using the avr for bass management, combining them is not generally recommended. Set the crossover in the avr. 80 is a good starting point but explore above and below as well.
2. What level? Sub level?
 
J

James_Ngo

Audioholic Intern
1. You should use the maximum frequency setting on the low pass filter if using the avr for bass management, combining them is not generally recommended. Set the crossover in the avr. 80 is a good starting point but explore above and below as well.
2. What level? Sub level?
Currently configure as follow:
Front large
X-over at 80hz
Fronts +7dB

Sub set as LFE/+main
Sub at 0 on avr
Lpf on sub set to 60hz
Gain at halfway mark.

Good starting point or no?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Currently configure as follow:
Front large
X-over at 80hz
Fronts +7dB

Sub set as LFE/+main
Sub at 0 on avr
Lpf on sub set to 60hz
Gain at halfway mark.

Good starting point or no?
All large setting means is don't use bass management for this channel (or globally if lower end unit)

Levels of fronts vs other speakers depend on differences in sensitivity and distance from the measured position.

LFE+Main somewhat duplicates response, so you overlap content of mains into the sub(s). Generally when using the bass management in the avr you set the low pass filter on the sub to "max" (and some subs with a specific LFE input disable it automatically). Gain depends on sub pre-out, I usually find on my commercial subs with plate amps that only 1/4 to 1/3 is needed....
 
J

James_Ngo

Audioholic Intern
All large setting means is don't use bass management for this channel (or globally if lower end unit)

Levels of fronts vs other speakers depend on differences in sensitivity and distance from the measured position.

LFE+Main somewhat duplicates response, so you overlap content of mains into the sub(s). Generally when using the bass management in the avr you set the low pass filter on the sub to "max" (and some subs with a specific LFE input disable it automatically). Gain depends on sub pre-out, I usually find on my commercial subs with plate amps that only 1/4 to 1/3 is needed....
When you say "max" as in when the sub respond or at the lowest Hz the sub will respond.?
At 100-80hz response is what I was listening to for the longest.
With more knowledge gain these last few weeks. Lowered it to 80-60hz, the response n feel was noticeably cleaner and tighter.

Although I do have to admitte. After a few hours of tinkering everysetting start to sound all the same.

This hobby is just as bad as owning and maintaining a coral reef tank. Both are money pit and time consuming.
 
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