Impact Acoustics Ultraflat Wire

gellor

gellor

Full Audioholic
Has anyone used the Impact Acoustics Ultraflat wire? I ordered it because it says you can hook it directly up to your components, but its a (approx.) 3/8" wide, flat, solid strip of copper. Not stranded wire. How would y'all recommend hooking this up to a speaker/receiver...just get some pliers and squish it, or is there a better way?

(The only instructions included were for joining the flat wire to round wire)
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
gellor said:
Has anyone used the Impact Acoustics Ultraflat wire? I ordered it because it says you can hook it directly up to your components, but its a (approx.) 3/8" wide, flat, solid strip of copper. Not stranded wire. How would y'all recommend hooking this up to a speaker/receiver...just get some pliers and squish it, or is there a better way?

(The only instructions included were for joining the flat wire to round wire)

I would just cramp it with pliers and use a banana plug or pin with solder.
 
gellor

gellor

Full Audioholic
mtrycrafts said:
I would just cramp it with pliers and use a banana plug or pin with solder.
Would something like a screw-on connector work instead of soldering? (I'm not very good with solder)
 

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
gellor said:
..its (approx.) 3/8" wide, flat, solid strip of copper. How would y'all recommend hooking this up to a speaker/receiver...just get some pliers and squish it, or is there a better way?
Just a suggestion (and maybe not a very good one), but if you were to pare back say a little more than 1/2" of sleeve and then take a chisel and gently create a score/indent at a point half the width of the flat and running from the cable end back along the cable, then doing this would probably cause a slightly v-shaped end from which you could then tidily bend with a pair of pliers and use with the speaker's/receiver's binding posts (as opposed to using connectors) to hold the cable in place.
 
hemiram

hemiram

Full Audioholic
gellor said:
Would something like a screw-on connector work instead of soldering? (I'm not very good with solder)

Screw on connectors sometime work ok, but I would, and normally do, crimp and solder. Soldering is very easy. Remember, heat THE JOINT, not the solder. That seems to be the thing that people mess up when starting out. Get a few pieces of wire and twist them together, and practice a little. I was doing it in the second grade without any problems, taught by my uncle one afternoon. As long as you have a big enough iron or gun to heat the joint, it's not hard at all. If the joint is shiny, and isn't "lumped" on the wire or connector, it's almost always a good joint.
 
sholling

sholling

Audioholic Ninja
I have a roll of Invisawire which appears to be the same thing. The instructions say to use it only on the walls and then use the included connectors to tie it into normal speaker cable for termination. Yours doesn't have the connectors?
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
gellor said:
Would something like a screw-on connector work instead of soldering? (I'm not very good with solder)

It might with flat wire, no way for them to split and move apart. But, you need to learn to solder. A worthwhile lifelong skill. After all, it is a guy thing:D

You do need a bit of flux solder on the iron to transfer the heat, then as you see the solder flow, add a bit more to cover the parts. Let cool. :)
 
gellor

gellor

Full Audioholic
mtrycrafts said:
It might with flat wire, no way for them to split and move apart. But, you need to learn to solder. A worthwhile lifelong skill. After all, it is a guy thing:D

You do need a bit of flux solder on the iron to transfer the heat, then as you see the solder flow, add a bit more to cover the parts. Let cool. :)
Yeah...its on my list of things to do. In fact, my boss is a former navy electrician...he keeps saying he'll teach me, and somehow never does.
 
hemiram

hemiram

Full Audioholic
Seriously, just get the following items and you can teach yourself in a very short time:

ROSIN core solder.
Iron
Damp rag or sponge (I prefer a tossable old rag) to clean the tip.
Some junk parts and wire cut into short pieces.

Get the iron hot.
Strip off some insulation at the ends of the pieces of wire.
Twist two of the ends together.
Clean the tip of the iron by quickly wiping it on the rag, so it's shiny.
Add a small amount of solder to the tip of the iron, just a little.
Put the tip of the iron near the bottom part of the twisted wire "Joint", and let it heat it up. touch the solder to the place where the iron and wires contact each other, and it should start melting. "Fill" the joint up (the solder will go between the strands of the wires, and you can easily tell when more solder isn't needed). When the joint is "done", remove the solder and iron, and let it cool off, don't touch it until it's cool. If you play around with where you touch the solder to the joint, you will notice that the molten solder gets "pulled" towards the heat source, like "magic".


If the solder on the joint is shiny and looks welded to the wires, congrats, you made a decent joint. If it's dull, or blobbed up, tsk tsk, you didn't get it hot enough, or moved it before it set up all the way.

Do this a couple dozen times and you will be able to solder decently. If you do it a lot, you will learn techniques that will let you make decent joints in about any kind of connection. The only really hard stuff to solder, except for aluminum, or zinc, and they don't really solder at all, is larger coax cable connectors. The key there is to use a really BIG IRON, not a gun, as a gun doesn't have the mass to hold the heat, and won't heat the connector up very well without cooking the cable inside it first.

A good tip: If possible, and sometimes it's not, try to make a decent mechanical connection, like twisting wires together, before you solder them together. Sometimes, I just tie them in knots, if it's not going to get pulled on, as the tightness of the connection makes the soldering almost unnecessary, except to "seal" the connection.

I have seen people really do a number on radios and police scanners due to not knowing how to solder, and it's really not that hard to do!

The most insane case of bad soldering from someone who supposedly knew better, was a friend of mine bought a scanner and had it "modded" by a local CB shop to get cell phone frequencies. When he got it back, it didn't work, it just scanned the same few channels and that was all. So he met me and I told him that I did mods and repairs for extra money, so he let me have it. I took it home and on top of a circuit board was a HUGE, quarter sized blob of solder! A 12 guage wire ( a tiny one was all you needed, and would have been a much better fit) was hooked to it, and connected to the wrong trace (the "wires" on the board are called traces) on the board about 4" away. I got my iron and "solder sucker" out (a plunger device with a teflon tip that is made to suck molten solder out of a joint so it can be taken apart), and started pulling solder off the huge blob. When I got it all off, it was a mess underneath it, as the traces were all broken and pulled off the board. I superglued the traces down and patched them, redid the mod correctly (it was totally screwed up even without the blob) and I couldn't believe it, it worked perfectly! My new friend was very happy, and gave me half what the new scanner he was about to order cost! :D :D
 
gellor

gellor

Full Audioholic
Cool. Thanks for the info, hemiram. I may have to give it a try. Since I think what I'll end up doing is modding the speaker with a new connector plate with binding posts instead of the spring-clips. That way, I can just crimp the wire and try the screw-on connectors.

RE: Sholling's post, the instructions say you can connect it directly to your equipment...just nothing about how.
 

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