I had an Idea, Hope you can help.

Damn Noise!

Damn Noise!

Audioholic Intern
Hello all,
I have access to a bands subwoofer and the speaker cabinet is no good but the 15" sub looks ok, here's my thoughts:

Could I take the speaker out of the cabinet and build a home use sub?
Like I said this is profesional equipment and it would need an amp to power it but I wondered if it would work.

This is the sub:
Behringer
Eurolive B1500X Subwoofer
low Freq 300 rms
4 ohms
Crossover 150 Hz


Could I build a box, add the right amp and connect this to my home stereo?
Would it be any good?

Thanks for the help. Peace.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Hello all,
I have access to a bands subwoofer and the speaker cabinet is no good but the 15" sub looks ok, here's my thoughts:

Could I take the speaker out of the cabinet and build a home use sub?
Like I said this is profesional equipment and it would need an amp to power it but I wondered if it would work.

This is the sub:
Behringer
Eurolive B1500X Subwoofer
low Freq 300 rms
4 ohms
Crossover 150 Hz

Could I build a box, add the right amp and connect this to my home stereo?
Would it be any good?

Thanks for the help. Peace.
If you just build a box for it, it will be no good for certain.

The T/S parameters of that driver are not published. So you would need to buy a woofer tester from parts express and measure the T/S parameters of the driver. Let us know what they are, and then we can tell what type of box you have to build and its dimensions, and port dimensions, if a ported box is the best way to go.
 
Damn Noise!

Damn Noise!

Audioholic Intern
Thanks, I don't have the speaker in front of me and haven't taken it apart yet.
From what I seen it all looks intact, I wan't to know if this worth doing?
It has the connectors on the back that "twist-lock" instead of the banana style but I'm sure that can be changed.
And I'll certainly study the correct way to build a proper cabinet for it so it has form and function.

Is it worth putting money into?
Thanks for the reply. Rock on.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Thanks, I don't have the speaker in front of me and haven't taken it apart yet.
From what I seen it all looks intact, I wan't to know if this worth doing?
It has the connectors on the back that "twist-lock" instead of the banana style but I'm sure that can be changed.
And I'll certainly study the correct way to build a proper cabinet for it so it has form and function.

Is it worth putting money into?
Thanks for the reply. Rock on.
I have absolutely no idea. I can't begin to tell you without the Thiel/Small parameters of the driver.

Without them, it is absolutely not worth putting money into. You can't ask your question without those numbers.
 
generalkorrd

generalkorrd

Audioholic Intern
I'm going to assume that it was in a fairly large box? That is kind of normal for proaudio subs. Here's the deal: If you have the room to fit a very large box, then this project may be worth it to try, if you don't, I would try something else.

Pros and cons of using a proaudio sub:
Pro: very little power required to get loud as hell.
Pro: fairly cheap to get into a sub this way, yours is a perfect example.
Con: usually cannot get deep into the 20(or teen)hz region like you would want a home sub to do. They are built to get loud, and a byproduct of that is a somewhat limited low freq extension. It will get louder than a comparable home sub above 30-ish hz or so.
Con: bigol' box. Probably twice as large as a comparable home sub. If you put that driver in a small box, it will not perform very well.

Pro subs are great for filling large rooms with bass, they don't have to be small, the large box helps to make them very sensitive. I have not really seen a protype sub do very well in a home environment, especially if you want home theater performance out of it.
 
generalkorrd

generalkorrd

Audioholic Intern
If you just build a box for it, it will be no good for certain.
Unless you build an exact copy of the box it came from. But then you have the limitations I stated in my other post.
 
Damn Noise!

Damn Noise!

Audioholic Intern
Thanks guys, I guess I was hoping the box would be somewhat smaller (the one now is huge) and space is at a premium in my house.
Glad I asked :)
I'll think on it some more, you all have been great. Rock on
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Thanks guys, I guess I was hoping the box would be somewhat smaller (the one now is huge) and space is at a premium in my house.
Glad I asked :)
I'll think on it some more, you all have been great. Rock on
It might be able to be smaller, but you need to buy a woofer tester to measure its parameters.
 
generalkorrd

generalkorrd

Audioholic Intern
It might be able to be smaller, but you need to buy a woofer tester to measure its parameters.
Yes, it is definitely possible that sub may work in some other, smaller type of box. But in the end, especially since OP just said that space is at a premium, I honestly don't see that sub being able to work properly in a box that would even come close to your typical home sub.

Another alternative would be a sub designed for car audio. Space is at even more of a premium there, so that is what they are designed for. If you need a tiny box sub, you may want to start your search there. The tradeoff to a tiny box sub is reduced sensitivity which means you need a lot more power to get it loud. But, if you take a tiny box sub and put it in your typical home sub sized box(which is usually somewhat larger), then your low freq extension is wonderful. Downside there is reduced power handling. Notice that there is always a tradeoff? It's called Hoffman's Iron law. Here is a nice writeup on it which may help you decide how you want to proceed.

Sensitivity and Hoffman’s Iron Law, or “why you can’t have your cake and eat it too”
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
You'd be better served by building a proven commodity for a sub not this driver. Creative Sound Solutions, TC Sounds, and Dayton all make excellent drivers.
 
generalkorrd

generalkorrd

Audioholic Intern
You'd be better served by building a proven commodity for a sub not this driver. Creative Sound Solutions, TC Sounds, and Dayton all make excellent drivers.
Dayton TitanicMKIII would be a very nice high end/ mid-low price driver to use. TC is too dodgy for me, Thilo(owner) is always filing bankruptcy and abandoning his customers. Word is that his reputation is completely annihilated with his old suppliers as he stuck them with tens of thousands of dollars in unpaid bills. CSS may be a good way to go as well, they have good deals sometimes.

Look here for Dayton:
15" Subwoofers give you Huge Bass with Low Distortion making them great for Home A/V and Car Audio Subwoofer applications!
 

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