How To Install an Immersive Surround Speaker Setup

[gene]

This installation guide illustrates how to retrofit a home theater system to support the latest Dolby Atmos / DTS:X / Auro 3D immersive surround formats using Beale Street in-ceiling speakers for the height channels and SVS Ultra series speakers for the ear level channels; all powered by a Denon X7200WA Atmos/DTS:X AV Receiver. We look at some of the prep work, challenges, and lessons learned from our installation of the audio technologies that will shape the future of music and home theater.

Read: How To Install a Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, and Auro-3D Speaker Setup

 

[gene]

Weird, Theo did all the grunt work on this installation and article and now I think Beale Street may be out of business? I haven't been able to access their website for at least 2 days. In any event, I guess just apply the lessons learned in this article for any of your favorite in-wall speaker companies currently in business.

 

[Gonzaga_1]

I have always been curious but in installing in-ceiling speakers, does permitting with the local jurisdiction ever come into play and if so how has that been a negative or positive experience? I assume it would considering the local jurisdiction would require a CL2 “permitted wire” and other requirements I am unaware of. Is there any other “required” elements to such an installation other than a CL2 rated wire? Thank you.

 

[kumar307]

I was interested in those speakers also looks like the closed up shop

 

[gene]

We just found out, they are still open but under new management.

gobeale.com

 

[Gabino Grande]

What's a motorized tool?

 

[Bizarro_Stormy]

What's a motorized tool?

I'm assuming it's a tool that's motorized...

But don't quote me...





Ok, you can quote me...

 

[kumar307]

We just found out, they are still open but under new management.

gobeale.com

Good to know! How do they sound!?

 

[cvillevideo]

What exactly was the 24-foot channel for? Is that were all the cable went?

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

Why go with All In-Ceiling??? Isn't that the worst possible option for speakers location???

 

[utopianemo]

What exactly was the 24-foot channel for? Is that were all the cable went?

Yes. I just did the same thing. Based on the article, his room is similar to mine in that the joists run left to right. So you cut a trench from the front(where the gear is) to the back, and drill holes in each joist to pass the cabling back to the row where each cable will travel laterally to its respective speaker.

 

[utopianemo]

Nice article. I JUST finished running cable in my room to upgrade my HT to 4 Atmos/DTS:X in-ceiling speakers and 2 in-wall surrounds. I ended up doing almost the same thing, and ran into similar problems as Theo.

I am using Epos Epic 2's for my LCR channels, and I don't have the budget for Auro, so my original intent was just to do in-ceiling/in-walls for surrounds only. I picked Aperion L6-IC's for the 4 in-ceiling speakers and Emotiva UAW-6.2's for the in-walls. I was also installing 6 can lights and expanding the switch box to accommodate an extra dimmer.

My gear's also on the right side of the room, so I cut a channel from front to back along the right side in the ceiling. I drilled holes in each joist, two for speaker cable and one for can light power.

Just like Theo, I ran into the issue of blocking halfway through the room. However, I decided to cut squares out of the ceiling just before the blocking, and drilled holes from there. Since I was already patching the ceiling, I figured it wouldn't matter much to do a little bit more. It also helped that my ceiling had a rough trowel finish, so it helped hide my wanting patching skills.

I also had two major unforseen issues: Firstly, I had to give up on the middle row of can lights. The joist in which they were to be placed happened to house an important air duct. HVAC work was beyond the scope of the project, so I had to let them go.

Secondly, I had to give up on the back surrounds. As much as I wanted 7.2.4, it was nearly impossible to get the normal surrounds in, and I had underestimated how much needed anyway. I consoled myself by reminding me that I'd have to buy an amp for them, since my Elite SC-95 only has enough amplification for 5.2.4 or 7.2.2(not including the .2 LFE, but you know what I'm saying).

All in all, though, I'm extremely happy with the results. You can stream all the Atmos demo clips from Vudu for free, and the Dolby Surround upmixer sounds great.

 

[SmartInstallation]

I'm pretty excited to get the Beal Street Audio speakers into a home. My distributor started carrying them recently and they seemed promising even though their website didn't seem to be finished when I tried looking them up. I installed the express 70v versions at a restaurant last week and was pretty impressed with the sound for the price. These might be my go-to speakers on future installations.
As for having enough HDMI cables behind drywall, my rule of thumb is never install HDMI without a plan for its replacement. Or I guess in your case a plan to install more after the fact.
Thanks for the great article. I've been reading for a while but never commented.

 

[TheoN]

@Gabino Grande i used a RotoZip RotoSaw with the Sheetrock cutting bit. That's what I meant by motorized tool. I could just as easily have used a Dremel with the same bit attachment. It made cutting the Sheetrock a piece of cake. We used the edge of the 1x6 board as the guide

 

[TheoN]

@BoredSysAdmin we went with all-in ceiling to do a real-world comparison of how it fared. You'll see in the next article. The all in-ceiling was a 1:1 overlap of the Auro-3D layout so it served both purposes. Needless to say it was the configuration that yielded the most compromises as you'll see in Part 2.

 

[John Rett]

FWIW, someone should let Beale Street Audio know that they are not going to sell many speakers if they don't have functioning web site and they don't reply to emails. Seriously, the only reason I care to follow up and dig is because of this high recommendation from Audioholics.

 

[cvillevideo]

Based on the article, his room is similar to mine in that the joists run left to right. So you cut a trench from the front(where the gear is) to the back, and drill holes in each joist to pass the cabling back to the row where each cable will travel laterally to its respective speaker.

@utopianemo Thanks! My joists run front to back. So I guess one approach to run wiring for ceiling speakers is to fish them through the ceiling parallel to the joists and then cut a channel perpendicular to the joists to run wire laterally in both directions for the left and right atmos ceiling speakers. Does that sound right?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but an alternative approach would be to run wires for the left and right ceiling speakers laterally through the front wall of the theater (maybe behind the baseboard) until they are each at the desired width and then run them separately parallel to the joists. I'd still have to cut into the ceiling to fish them, but I wouldn't have to cut a channel in the ceiling or drill through a bunch of joists. This sounds easier to me, but I've never done anything like this so I might be missing something.

Does it matter which approach I choose? Is one easier or recommended?

 

[Sipos88]

I'm pretty excited to get the Beal Street Audio speakers into a home. My distributor started carrying them recently and they seemed promising even though their website didn't seem to be finished when I tried looking them up. I installed the express 70v versions at a restaurant last week and was pretty impressed with the sound for the price. These might be my go-to speakers on future installations.
As for having enough HDMI cables behind drywall, my rule of thumb is never install HDMI without a plan for its replacement. Or I guess in your case a plan to install more after the fact.
Thanks for the great article. I've been reading for a while but never commented.

What is the price for them? Its not showing anything online. Ive seen they have tons of different ones.. Just so i know as a comparison..
Thanks

 

[Albert nguyen]

Beale Street website: https://www.gobeale.com/

 

[Bolts38]

Thanks for the very thorough article @TheoN ,

I am currently upgrading my Paradigm Reference Studio 100/60s 7.1 to a 7.2.4, and to keep the wife happy, I need to lose the rear bookshelf 60s, but will gain 2nd HSU VTF-15H MK2, Denon 6400 (my 4520 just died),and new projector Fair trade I think

Hence, I am looking at an all ceiling side / rear / top configuration, keeping the Studio 100/650 front 3 in tact.

I have a pair of in-box 'new' angled Paradigm In-Ceiling Reference Angled speakers I think would be best to replace rear bookshelves behind, at 6' behind main listening position lined up w front L/R.

Between your article, the Denon manual, I would then keep current sides (in ceiling DefTech UIWBP/A Bipolar),and then add 4 direct down firing JBL SP-8C amiable speakers in Atmos configuration (rear two outside and even w rear surround angled Paradigms, and front two symmetrical in front of side surrounds 6'.

My questions are: do you think the Atmos recommended symmetrical front top position (10' back from screen in 24' by 14'' room,) would be better than DTS front corners by screen for maximum future options (DD Surround, IMAX, DTS, and Auro3D)? Seating position is 16-18' back.

JBL speakers are 'new, never been used' in box, but have been stored in garage for 10 years as backup replacements for original whole house audio applications. Any worries on them wearing out as exposed to moderate to hot temperatures in Florida? Would I be able to see warning signs?

JBL Tweeters are amiable like your install, for top 4, did you aim straight down, or towards listener.

If not, what in ceilings would you recommend? I am thinking depth of Beale Streets are not workable as I have 3-4" of Roxul sound/fire insulation between floors.

I will run double HDMI, fiber optic, cat 6e, and also pre wire a God C speaker in middle of final top setup, and ceiling front center speaker; any other suggestions for future proofing?

2nd VTF sub will have to be front right of center inside FR, as current is front left center inside FL...would like to have behind seats, but WAF compromise.

Any suggestions / experience with/on Buttkickers?

Would moving Studio 60s to front height w external amp add much to this system? Would be behind curtains or screen which is not optimal.

Thanks for your help!
Best, Alec