How loud do you listen to your system

How lud do you listen to your A/V system?

  • 25% volume up

    Votes: 8 27.6%
  • 50% volume up

    Votes: 10 34.5%
  • 75% volume up

    Votes: 9 31.0%
  • wish you had a 11 on the volume dial

    Votes: 2 6.9%

  • Total voters
    29
edwelly

edwelly

Full Audioholic
How loud to you listen to your HT? I have seen a few posts of people wanting to upgrade their equipment due to clipping and other issues. I have yet to go past -30 on my dial and that was just testing it (I assume it goes down to 0). I can't imagine listening to music or a movie at clipping volumes...

EDIT: Sorry for the spelling errors in the POLL - I can't figure out how to edit the POLL...
 
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Mr. Lamb Fries

Mr. Lamb Fries

Full Audioholic
Levels I listen at
Watching a movie with my fiance....-30
Watching a movie W/O my fiance....-20 to -15
Watching a DVD concert...-10 to -5

All are adjusted to the audio levels but these are the usual levels.
My receiver goes to +10
 
STRONGBADF1

STRONGBADF1

Audioholic Spartan
I have a piece of junk "100 watt per channel" Sony that has a scale of 0-40.

TV = 22-26
Movies = 24-28
DVD concerts = 20-27
Music = 25-30

If I remember correctly my main speakers sensitivity is 98db. in a 14' x 24' room thats pretty loud.

Now when I upgrade from my old stuff all bets are off!:D
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Mr. Lamb Fries said:
Levels I listen at
Watching a movie with my fiance....-30
Watching a movie W/O my fiance....-20 to -15
Watching a DVD concert...-10 to -5
That is funny, but hose numbers don't really mean anything to anyone else, because they correlate to a level in your room and not anyone else's. I listen at about -20 on my receiver also, but my room is quite large and I have a fair amount of power so that level would be a lot higher in a smaller room.

The real question would be: at what average SPL do you listen?
 
M

MDS

Audioholic Spartan
If everyone calibrates to dolby reference level and follows the convention that 0 dB on the volume dial is the setting that yields reference level, then we could all compare.

If you receiver uses the absolute scale instead, you can still compare because you know which absolute number yields reference level.

If Mr. Lamb Fries has his receiver calibrated to 85 dB at 0 and another has his receiver calibrated to 85 dB at 60, then -20 for MLF equals 40 for the other.

But, yeah it would be easier to just say what average SPL you listen at.
 
furrycute

furrycute

Banned
About 85db for music when my neighbors have gone to work.

But you should really listen to loud music for prolonged periods. I believe if you are exposed to 95db noise for about 30 minutes continuous, you start to sustain permanent hearing damage.
 

Buckle-meister

Audioholic Field Marshall
Around -20 for CDs, and around -15 for DVDs, but bear in mind that my receiver doesn't stop at zero; it goes all the way to around +25! :eek:

Yeah baby! :D

Regards
 
Mr. Lamb Fries

Mr. Lamb Fries

Full Audioholic
j_garcia said:
That is funny, but hose numbers don't really mean anything to anyone else, because they correlate to a level in your room and not anyone else's. I listen at about -20 on my receiver also, but my room is quite large and I have a fair amount of power so that level would be a lot higher in a smaller room.

The real question would be: at what average SPL do you listen?
I suppose a more ACCURATE question would be "at what average SPL do you listen". That would better compare listening levels to each individual within the setting that each individual listens. but I was answering the question edwelly was asking in the manner in which he has asked and answering given the example edwelly gives.

thinking about it, I see another flaw in just comparing volume dial levels. Not all recordings are recorded at the same levels. this would yeild different SPL's for different recordings if played at the same level on the volume dial.

i dont have a SPL meter just yet. I was waiting to get one when I move in a few weeks. then I can set up everything to the best of my ability(speaker distance, run wires, calabrate speakers, seating arrangement, etc...) Right now I am just going on my ears. I gotta say...It sounds GREAT! Ill chime back in when I can accuratly give a figure that can be compaired to others.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
If everyone calibrates to dolby reference level and follows the convention that 0 dB on the volume dial is the setting that yields reference level, then we could all compare.
My receiver doesn't let me decide at what dial volume I calibrate at - it just gives me 75dB tones regardless of the volume setting.

Zero on the dial also does not work because that Zero essentially means nothing also. 0 is NOT what ref should be calibrated to IMHO, 75dB (or 85dB on some discs) should be at zero adjustment for one reference speaker, usually the front left and all other speakers are calibrated to match that level. Wherever that falls on your volume dial is your reference level point. If you use 0 in a larger room, you may need to turn all the speakers to +9 or +10 to hit ref level and conversely, you may need to put them at -9 or -10 in a smaller room to use 0 on the volume dial; in either case, you have no flexibility (theoretically, YMMV).
 
Hi Ho

Hi Ho

Audioholic Samurai
When watching movies or listening to music I usually have the receiver turned up to -35 to -25db.
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
Varies on mood, content and situation

Considering that the Yamaha volume goes from -80dB to +15dB,

Movies: -25 to -20dB, sometimes I run sections at -15dB just to feel the effects, but my better half has me turn it down immediately. We live in a condo and in parts like Episode 3 opening scene, I can have the whole structure shaking if I wanted to :D.

Stereo music: -30 to -20dB sometimes when I am needing a boost, -15dB for short time.

That would put me in the 50% to 75% range. Of course, for the neighbours benifit, it if is later than 8pm, all levels go down considerably.
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
.....you got four listening levels.....sweet-spot CD, sweet-spot DVD, tv watching, and background....did I miss one?....
 
M

MDS

Audioholic Spartan
I really don't follow you at all and I understand this stuff very well. I've explained it a few dozen times.

j_garcia said:
My receiver doesn't let me decide at what dial volume I calibrate at - it just gives me 75dB tones regardless of the volume setting.
Actually it gives you a -30 dB pink noise tone with the volume automatically set to 0 dB on the volume dial (regardless of the position of the physical knob). The receiver doesn't know anything about SPL and cannot automatically generate a tone that will produce 75 dB output at your listening position as that depends on distance, room acoustics and the sensitivity of your speakers. 0 dB on the dial relates to some percentage of the receiver's rail voltage.

j_garcia said:
0 is NOT what ref should be calibrated to IMHO, 75dB (or 85dB on some discs) should be at zero adjustment for one reference speaker, usually the front left and all other speakers are calibrated to match that level. Wherever that falls on your volume dial is your reference level point.
You can certainly do that if you wish and in the past you had no choice because the front channels had no adjustment. You were always making the other channels relative to the front channels.

But with a receiver that automatically sets the volume to 0 dB (THX certified receivers), as you said you don't get to choose your point on the dial, so this cannot be done.

j_garcia said:
If you use 0 in a larger room, you may need to turn all the speakers to +9 or +10 to hit ref level and conversely, you may need to put them at -9 or -10 in a smaller room to use 0 on the volume dial; in either case, you have no flexibility (theoretically, YMMV).
That is only true if you insist on setting the channel trim for the front channels to 0. It is not related to using 0 as the reference volume point on the dial.

The proper way to calibrate to reference level is to start the test tones and adjust every channel so the spl meter reads your target level. Whether the channel trims end up all positive or all negative or a combination of positive and negative is irrelevant.

If you receiver doesn't automatically choose a reference volume number, then you do have more flexibility over the channel trims and the number you choose for your reference on the dial. If 85 dB pink noise is too annoying for your ears, you can turn the dial down to -10 and calibrate to 75 dB and you will still have 85 dB at 0.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
MDS said:
I really don't follow you at all and I understand this stuff very well. I've explained it a few dozen times.


Actually it gives you a -30 dB pink noise tone with the volume automatically set to 0 dB on the volume dial (regardless of the position of the physical knob). The receiver doesn't know anything about SPL and cannot automatically generate a tone that will produce 75 dB output at your listening position as that depends on distance, room acoustics and the sensitivity of your speakers. 0 dB on the dial relates to some percentage of the receiver's rail voltage.
I didn't realize that was what it was doing, but basically that means it IS giving me what is effectively a 75dB reference test tone is it not? Yes, the 8300 is a THX select unit so it uses this scheme. First THX receiver I've owned, but when I ran the tones and fired up the SPL meter on 80dB, I was getting a ~75dB level.

What I was getting at though, for receivers that do not select a zero point, starting at the point at which the volume knob gives you zero for the first speaker means that for your room, that indicator on the dial now represents zero and the rest of the speakers are relative to that, allowing the most + and - flexibility (if needed). If you use -30 on the volume dial and turn every speaker up to +9, isn't that the same thing as just making all of them zero and turning the volume up by 9?

Which brings up another question or two - Do all receivers adjust via the volume dial in a linear fashion? Ithought I read somewhere that some receivers increase volume more rapidly as you move closer to the 100% gain. Do all receiver's volume knobs adjust in 1dB increments?
 
hifiman

hifiman

Audioholic
Well I used to turn the amp up to 10, but then I got an amp that went to 11. :D
 
krzywica

krzywica

Audioholic Samurai
Loud Noises

I usually listen to music from 95db to 110db, yea I know, hearing loss an dall that. And my knob (hee hee I said knob) is erelevant as previously stated, but for music -35 to -0 and HT -25 to -10. I do want to get a new reciever or amp with more power.
 
HookedOnSound

HookedOnSound

Full Audioholic
Music : -40 to -25
Movies: - 30 to -20

I seem to turn it louder when I am watching movies, probably because there is alot of quiet passages during the movies we watch at home and I like to hear the voices/dialog (probably due to my center channel being inefficient as well).

Doesn't it feel good to crank it up when you hear a good song though?
 
M

MDS

Audioholic Spartan
What I was getting at though, for receivers that do not select a zero point, starting at the point at which the volume knob gives you zero for the first speaker means that for your room, that indicator on the dial now represents zero and the rest of the speakers are relative to that, allowing the most + and - flexibility (if needed).
I think I see what you are getting at, but am perhaps confused by what you mean when you say 'represents zero'.

The channel trims are like faders. 0 dB means 'no change'. Just for an arbitrary example to illustrate the fact that the different scales all interact, let's say you start with all the channel trims at zero and the master volume is at 82 out of 100 [forget about the relative scale and '0 dB' for a moment - it's the same thing with a different nomenclature].

Let's say that the receiver is putting out 82% of its max voltage at that setting. Say the output SPL for the front channels is at 90 dB and is therefore too high. You turn the channel trim to -5 to bring the SPL for that channel down. What it does is reduce the power for that channel by 5 dB (by reducing the voltage).

If the channel trims end up positive, it reduces the range of the master volume control because the receiver cannot exceed its max rail voltage. For that example receiver, the master volume control will now top out at 95 instead of 100.

If you use -30 on the volume dial and turn every speaker up to +9, isn't that the same thing as just making all of them zero and turning the volume up by 9?
Yes. The catch is what you alluded to in the last post. Due to the range of the channel trims, you may not have enough range to adjust to a higher SPL at a lower volume setting. I assume that is why thx receivers automatically choose the level for you.

For a real world example, on my lowly Onkyo 502 I chose 60 for the reference volume position (it goes to 79). My trims ended up at +6 for the fronts and +10 for the center. If I wanted the front trims at zero, my reference volume position would go up to 66 (and the center would have to be +4). When I lived in an apt and the room was much smaller, the trims were all at zero and I could achieve the same reference level at 50 on the scale. When I get around to buying a 703 for this house, I'm sure the channel trims will be wildly different.

Which brings up another question or two - Do all receivers adjust via the volume dial in a linear fashion? Ithought I read somewhere that some receivers increase volume more rapidly as you move closer to the 100% gain. Do all receiver's volume knobs adjust in 1dB increments?
Older receivers with analog volume controls definitely increase the volume in a logarithmic fashion. It was called 'audio taper'. Now we have 'digitally controlled' analog volume controls - so the processor calculates the amount of gain needed to increase the power by 1 dB. I think there are some receivers (some Yamaha models?) that advertise .5 dB volume increments.

On the older receivers the volume knob definitely had an endpoint. Now, the volume control is infinitely variable. Spin the volume knob so the volume is high, say 0 dB (or 80 or whatever) and then turn it all the way down with the remote. You can then go back to the volume knob and keep turning it up - there is no endpoint because it is controlled digitally and not by the physical knob.

Onkyo tells us in their manual that 82 on the absolute scale is equivalent to 0 on the relative scale. What they don't tell us (nor does any other manufacturer) is what that means in terms of the receiver's rail voltage. I'm sure thx defines a specific voltage (or percentage of max) for '0 dB' and I've been trying for years to find out what it is.
 
Francious70

Francious70

Senior Audioholic
I'd say I listen a fairly high levels, all the time. About 100 dB I'd say.
 
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