How can I make a DIY stand with a swiveling top plate?

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yonyz

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Jun 19, 2008
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Hi,

After "designing" a DIY stand (it's basically just two plywood plates with a 10x10cm leg or a round 12cm diameter leg in-between), I realized that having a swiveling top plate would be a really nice feature, because then the bottom plate would never look "crooked" with the speakers aimed at me.

Anyhow, I was thinking of using a metal thread insert that will connect the top plate to the leg, and basically if I wanted to swivel the plate, I'd just have to unscrew the bolt a little bit. It'd have to be a serious bolt, but even then, I wonder if it'd be enough to hold the plate tight.

By the way, the top plate would be exactly the dimensions of the speaker, in order to to make it "disappear".

I'd like to hear your thoughts on that, please.

Thank you.
 
Yes, I think that could work.

I would get a large (1/4" or 3/8" diameter) threaded insert with knife edges for soft wood, that you drive into the leg with a hex drive, looks like this:
images

In the top plate, use a hex head bolt with a washer. Counter sink the hole deep enough so the hex head bolt doesn't protrude above the platform, and wide enough to hold the washer. With the washer, you should be able to tighten the bolt enough to keep the platform from moving.

https://www.ezlok.com/cds_categories.php?cid=cba-hex-drives&filter=internal_thread:2:3/8-16:1/4-20
 
The metal swivel plate is a non elegant solution, I want everything to be made of wood.

Regarding weight distribution, the top plate is to rest on the 12cm diameter leg. Is one center screw still a bad idea?
 
The metal swivel plate is a non elegant solution, I want everything to be made of wood.

Regarding weight distribution, the top plate is to rest on the 12cm diameter leg. Is one center screw still a bad idea?

Yes, the single point is the non elegant solution from the engineering point of view.

You won't see that swivel plate, as it is very thin and be between two pieces of wood and be hidden from view.
 
Oh, so you're suggesting covering the swivel plate with wood. Good idea, but I'll never find a swivel plate at exactly the size I need...

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
A ball bearing swivel plate would make the speaker stand into a Lazy Susan, unless there's a way to lock it in place.

That 7" swivel is made for bar stools, and would support the weight of an adult.

How big are these speakers? And how heavy? Depending on the size of the speaker's footprint and the weight, the top plate of the stand can be smaller, allowing the speaker cabinet to overhang some. That may eliminate the need to swivel the top plate.
 
I hope you realize that you are trying to literally reinvent the wheel here. :D

You just need an axle that is firm on one end and allows the other end to rotate around it.
 
So those swivel thingies are not good, because they swivel freely like a chair?
The speakers are not very big, their base is just 26.5cm (depth) x 23.7cm (width) and they're 7kg each. I could probably do with a smaller top plate, I guess. What size would you recommend?

Isiberian, I'm not sure what that means (I'm not a native English speaker). Can you provide a link to such an axle?
 
So those swivel thingies are not good, because they swivel freely like a chair?
The speakers are not very big, their base is just 26.5cm (depth) x 23.7cm (width) and they're 7kg each. I could probably do with a smaller top plate, I guess. What size would you recommend?

Isiberian, I'm not sure what that means (I'm not a native English speaker). Can you provide a link to such an axle?

Techinically it's a swivel, but essentially you just need to attach round peg to your base and then make a slightly larger hole in the base.
 
Sorry, I still have a hard time imagining it.
 
I have swiveled and hinged so many things in my career that am somewhat known for it by now. Although this is aluminum, the principle would (and has) work for wood. For this situation I sandwiched a 6mm thick plastic disk between two pieces of aluminum plate. This contraption holds a large transducer that needs to swivel up out of the way for a special vehicle. If I can scratch build something like this out of aluminum, it should be no problem with wood. I use a through bolt with a smooth section for the friction point, and a nylock nut. A nylock nut is essentially infinitely adjustable with regard to the amount of friction you need on the plastic bearing. Just countersink the head in your plate that the speaker sits on.

The larger round disk in the center is what has the plastic disk for a bearing so that pipe will swivel.

72ZitFj.jpg


Found a better picture that shows what I am talking about with the black plastic bearing. Should give you some ideas. Of course a washer under both the head of the bolt and the nut as well. Just tighten it until it has the amount of resistance you want.
yCi3ydY.jpg
 
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