Home Theater - How many dedicated Circuits?

[MrMezz]

The electrician is scheduled to wire my dedicated home theater this week. I currently have planned three dedicated circuits. One for room outlets and lighting, one for the front projector and one for AV equipment closet.

Would there be any benefit to wiring two circuits to the AV equipment? I already have amp/reciever, HD satellite TV reciever, 2 buttkicker amps, DVD player, DVDO scaler equipment planned for the equipment room.

I am a power neophyte, but it seems like I've read that running too much through one circuit could effect the power reaching your speakers?

Any help appreciated!

 

[majorloser]

For my equipment closet I have two 20 amp 220V services. Each one is split between two outlets in a quad box (one hot to each duplex outlet and the neutral is shared). Way more power than I need. One of these circuits also feed an outlet on the ceiling for my projector. I have another 20A 120V circuit for the subwoofer outlets, another for room lighting and another for the powered chair floor outlets.

I also installed a "whole house" surge supressor at the breaker box on it's own 30A 220V breaker. Power conditioning is handled in the closet.

Depending on the electrical code where you live, they may only be required to run 14 gauge wire for residential service. If possible, run 12 gauge from the breaker box for each 20A service.

There has been a change in the 2005 NEC that calls for arc fault protectors in bedrooms. My theater is shown as a "bedroom" on the prints but was built before the code change.

 

[mtrycrafts]

If possible, run 12 gauge from the breaker box for each 20A service.

20A breakers require 12ga wire

There has been a change in the 2005 NEC that calls for arc fault protectors in bedrooms. My theater is shown as a "bedroom" on the prints but was built before the code change.


What is that?

 

[majorloser]

If possible, run 12 gauge from the breaker box for each 20A service.

20A breakers require 12ga wire

There has been a change in the 2005 NEC that calls for arc fault protectors in bedrooms. My theater is shown as a "bedroom" on the prints but was built before the code change.


What is that?

It's a device that prevents arc related fires in the bedroom (http://www.ul.com/regulators/afci/. You know when you pull out a plug fast and you get that spark? It's like a GFI.

What I meant about the 20A is to make sure you get 20A breakers, outlets and 12 gauge wire. Here (Florida) we are allowed 15A breakers, 14 gauge wire and 15A outlets for bedrooms. Too wimpy for a real amp!

 

[philh]

For my equipment closet I have two 20 amp 220V services. Each one is split between two outlets in a quad box (one hot to each duplex outlet and the neutral is shared). Way more power than I need. One of these circuits also feed an outlet on the ceiling for my projector. I have another 20A 120V circuit for the subwoofer outlets, another for room lighting and another for the powered chair floor outlets.

I also installed a "whole house" surge supressor at the breaker box on it's own 30A 220V breaker. Power conditioning is handled in the closet.

Depending on the electrical code where you live, they may only be required to run 14 gauge wire for residential service. If possible, run 12 gauge from the breaker box for each 20A service.

There has been a change in the 2005 NEC that calls for arc fault protectors in bedrooms. My theater is shown as a "bedroom" on the prints but was built before the code change.

I just heard this weekend that whole house surge protectors do NOT protect neutral line. Haven't looked into it yet, but plan too.

That's a LOT of available amperage! I have a LOT of equipment on a single 15a line, and never noticed a problem. Seriously thinking about wiring a commercial size power conditioner, but trying to figure out where to put it, as it has a serious whiny buzz, and has a 150w overhead load.

 

[majorloser]

I just heard this weekend that whole house surge protectors do NOT protect neutral line. Haven't looked into it yet, but plan too.

That's a LOT of available amperage! I have a LOT of equipment on a single 15a line, and never noticed a problem. Seriously thinking about wiring a commercial size power conditioner, but trying to figure out where to put it, as it has a serious whiny buzz, and has a 150w overhead load.

Depends on what you buy. In my case I did not buy a unit for residential service. I bought a commercial unit.

http://www.allteccorp.com

It protects L-N, L-G and N-G.

Whatever you buy, make sure it is UL 1449 listed for no higher than 330V.

 

[Rock&Roll Ninja]

Unless you're running several large monoblocks you should be fine with 15.

I did manage to shut a few down, but it almost always required using a Wolfgang Puck indoor grill at the same time (which consumes about 3000 watts!). So you may need a seperate line for a very large subwoofer or other oversized amp.

 

[majorloser]

Ok, so like everything else, I went over board!

I still wouldn't run ANYTHING less than a dedicated 20A service to the components. No lights, no other outlets, no nothing, just the equipment for the room. It's not the running amps it's the in-rush required for amplifiers. That's why they use slow-blow fuses. The power can exceed the normal operating rating during major peaks. The amplifiers alone can use 10 to 15 amps.

 

[Audioholics]

In hindsight I would:

• Wire up two 20A circuits to my equipment closet (plus Air Conditioning - go figure!)
• Keep lighting separate from outlets THROUGHOUT the home
• Run a dedicated 20A outlet for my projector (all outlets would be 12AWG/20A)

Of course I AM AN AUDIOHOLIC!

 

[mtrycrafts]

It's a device that prevents arc related fires in the bedroom (http://www.ul.com/regulators/afci/. You know when you pull out a plug fast and you get that spark? It's like a GFI.

What I meant about the 20A is to make sure you get 20A breakers, outlets and 12 gauge wire. Here (Florida) we are allowed 15A breakers, 14 gauge wire and 15A outlets for bedrooms. Too wimpy for a real amp!

Great, thanks. I wonder now why only in bedrooms? Arcing could cause fires elsewhere as well. What would happen if you unplug an iron without being turned off? breaker trips?

 

[Bryce_H]

Here is what I ran:
2 20amp 120volt (but 240 ready) circuits to the closet
All HT outlets on a dedicated circuit
All HT lighting on a dedicated circuit

My Panamx 5510 is connected to one of the dedicated 20 amp (the other is currently unused) and all my equipment is run off the Panamax. My projector is plugged into the 5510 through an in-wall kit from Panamax . This allows me to run my projector through the 5510 and retain all the warrenty stuff.
My powered subs in front are protected with these afterbuild units.

 

[majorloser]

Here is what I ran:
2 20amp 120volt (but 240 ready) circuits to the closet
All HT outlets on a dedicated circuit
All HT lighting on a dedicated circuit

My Panamx 5510 is connected to one of the dedicated 20 amp (the other is currently unused) and all my equipment is run off the Panamax. My projector is plugged into the 5510 through an in-wall kit from Panamax . This allows me to run my projector through the 5510 and retain all the warrenty stuff.
My powered subs in front are protected with these afterbuild units.

That should do it!

 

[majorloser]

Great, thanks. I wonder now why only in bedrooms? Arcing could cause fires elsewhere as well. What would happen if you unplug an iron without being turned off? breaker trips?

I have no idea how the NEC and UL think! I believe it has to do with the types of loads in a bedroom and the possibility of linens or curtains over an outlet. I do know that arc faults are VERY sensitive. Just the spark from the armature brushes of an old electric drill can trip them. That might be why they only want it in bedrooms.

DAMN SAFETY NAZIS!

 

[audiofox]

In hindsight I would:

• Wire up two 20A circuits to my equipment closet (plus Air Conditioning - go figure!)
• Keep lighting separate from outlets THROUGHOUT the home
• Run a dedicated 20A outlet for my projector (all outlets would be 12AWG/20A)

Of course I AM AN AUDIOHOLIC!

Clint, why the dedicated projector outlet? Do you have a high current projector, or do you just want it isolated from the other stuff?

 

[majorloser]

Clint, why the dedicated projector outlet? Do you have a high current projector, or do you just want it isolated from the other stuff?

If you ceiling mount your projector it's nice to have an outlet up there. I don't think he meant a dedicated circuit, just outlet. My projector only pulls 320 watts.

My projector: http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g278/majorloser_pics/?action=view&current=Crib040.jpg

 

[audiofox]

Yeah, that makes sense, since the alternative would be to snake an extension cord to the ceiling mounted projector, which sounds ugly. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[Craftsman]

Bought a house 3 years ago (Montgomery County, Maryland) that was built "per code." I've had major problems running equipment (computer, stereo, etc...) in various rooms because too many lights, plugs, etc... are on the same 15 Amp circuit. If I have a computer and printer powered on at the same time, the breaker will shut off. Had to run dedicated 20 AMP wires to the den and two other rooms to prevent this problem.

Now that I'm finishing my basement, I have two 20 AMP dedicated circuits for my stereo, HDTV, receiver, etc... equipment to prevent the above mentioned problems. Believe me, it is easier and cheaper to do it up front than to pay an electrician to cut holes in the ceiling/walls to run extra circuits, and then pay a painter to mud and paint.

 

[mtrycrafts]

Bought a house 3 years ago (Montgomery County, Maryland) that was built "per code." I've had major problems running equipment (computer, stereo, etc...) in various rooms because too many lights, plugs, etc... are on the same 15 Amp circuit. If I have a computer and printer powered on at the same time, the breaker will shut off. Had to run dedicated 20 AMP wires to the den and two other rooms to prevent this problem.

Now that I'm finishing my basement, I have two 20 AMP dedicated circuits for my stereo, HDTV, receiver, etc... equipment to prevent the above mentioned problems. Believe me, it is easier and cheaper to do it up front than to pay an electrician to cut holes in the ceiling/walls to run extra circuits, and then pay a painter to mud and paint.

But code requires a 20A circuit in the family room, dining room for extra stuff and perhaps the living room too, if I remember correctly.

 

[abboudc]

I have one 20A circuit for all my equipment, then a separate one for lighting. Haven't had a problem yet, but i may need to drop in another circuit when i get a bigger sub.