HELP

[Cheema]

So I went to a place to get my Kicker l7 with a Hifonics amp and my four aftermarket BSA speakers wired to an 4 channel amp. After i got the car back from the place, there was constant feedback so i was told to remove my microphones that have noise cancellation, in which i did. The problem didnt stop so he tested the amps and he said the 4 channel amp is no good (american pro) so i bought a new AutoTek amp. After wiring it all up, there was still noise coming from the front door speakers. The noise sounds really weird like star wars lightsavers moving around... And it only happens when my driver door is shut, as soon as i open it, it stops and it happens when my RPM is under 1500. Can someone please help? The guy who installed it whats the car back to rip everything out and do it again but I dont wanna keep going back and forth as ive gone already several times. Ive already spent a ton of money and I just want it done.

 

[slipperybidness]

If you paid someone to do the work, then you have every right to expect them to complete the work to your satisfaction, and in a timely manner.

If you are still having problems, it is time to speak to this person about the $ and time that you have already invested and make it clear that you are not happy with his work up to this point. As a customer, you need to ask "how can we fix this and make me a satisfied customer". Also, if the 2nd amp did not fix the problem, it may be time to ask for your $ back on that.

Now, on to your questions. Does the noise change as you accelerate? Gets to be a higher pitch as you go faster? If the answer to those questions is "yes", then you are dealing with a classic symptom of a poor ground! Plain and simple, seen it many times!


The first time I ever installed a stereo, I tied the "remote" line on the stereo into my switched cigarette lighter, and had a similar problem. I then moved the remote line to the proper "accessory" circuit, and that solved the problem. So, my first guess is that the ground is not in a good location or is not attached very well to bare metal, or the remote line is tied into a poor choice of circuits.

Now, you have 1 other piece of evidence. If the problem changes whether or not the driver side door is open, then you may have a problem with that light switch on the door. Or, something is tied into that same circuit that should not be.

 

[Cheema]

It turned out that door wiring had built in capacitors and so the guy hooked up the speakers with new wiring and the noise is less quiet now. However, it is still there. He believes its from the engine frequencies and the alternator noise. He told me to invest in a line limiter to terminate the annoying noise. So I have another appointment with him this week. The noise stops if you open any door, press the windows up or down or lock the doors and then continues to make the noise. We tried different grounding, different RCA's modules and nothing worked. So lets see how it goes and if he stops the noise, but thank you for your help!

 

[TLS Guy]

So I went to a place to get my Kicker l7 with a Hifonics amp and my four aftermarket BSA speakers wired to an 4 channel amp. After i got the car back from the place, there was constant feedback so i was told to remove my microphones that have noise cancellation, in which i did. The problem didnt stop so he tested the amps and he said the 4 channel amp is no good (american pro) so i bought a new AutoTek amp. After wiring it all up, there was still noise coming from the front door speakers. The noise sounds really weird like star wars lightsavers moving around... And it only happens when my driver door is shut, as soon as i open it, it stops and it happens when my RPM is under 1500. Can someone please help? The guy who installed it whats the car back to rip everything out and do it again but I dont wanna keep going back and forth as ive gone already several times. Ive already spent a ton of money and I just want it done.

First this is not a car audio forum. However it would be impossible to diagnose a problem like that at long range.

It sounds like electrical inference. What is the car? Modern cars a full of electronics. My rule for newer cars is to NEVER change the stock audio system. Basically car installers have a line of work with no future.

 

[Cheema]

Sorry, just trying to find some answers, but I have a Honda Accord 2011 EX-L Sedan V6

 

[TLS Guy]

Sorry, just trying to find some answers, but I have a Honda Accord 2011 EX-L Sedan V6

I was afraid of that. The car is new enough it can be a nightmare. There are sensors now that transmit by RF on many vehicles.

The thought of a ground problem is a good one, but it may not be a ground your installer made. There could be a problem ground anywhere in the vehicle.

I'm afraid from here on out installing after market audio is high risk venture as you are finding out. If this guy does not solve it soon, I would get you money back and go back to the stock system.

I have encountered horror stories round here were serious damage had been done to the car trying to get these installations to work.

I strongly advise never trying to instal aftermarket audio past around 2009 model years, and absolutely never if there is a head unit.

On my 2011 vehicle the warranty is expressly void if aftermarket audio is installed.

 

[Cheema]

The warranty was only for three years so it as already expired, thus i installed these speakers. I just need a way to stop the amp from picking up the alternator and engine frequencies. The installer is going to try running the power wire from the 4 channel amp straight to the battery and install a line limiter.

 

[TLS Guy]

The warranty was only for three years so it as already expired, thus i installed these speakers. I just need a way to stop the amp from picking up the alternator and engine frequencies. The installer is going to try running the power wire from the 4 channel amp straight to the battery and install a line limiter.

That was the next thing I was going to suggest. You had better make sure the guy does this very well, as it will by pass a bunch of safety features. Your worst case is a fire on the road.

I really don't know why people want to mess with this anymore. The auto industry has invested more money in car audio than home audio and HT put together and by far. My vehicle has a Pioneer system. Pioneer stole the best engineers away from KEF to do this. It is superb and high power with its own inverters. Everything is active crossover, not passive. There are multiple amps. It sounds wonderful, and I could never best it with a different system. I would never want to risk expensive electrical trouble in the vehicle.

Both of our vehicles have inverters all over the place. These units can create a lot of RF of their own. In the modern car there are multiple features that would upset an aftermarket installation right down to the RF sensors and transmitters in the wheels telling you your tire pressure. There are just about two sensors for everything that turns on a modern vehicle. So much so, I keep a fault code book and scanner in the glove compartment. The code book is pages and pages long. In a modern vehicle there are a lot more sources of RF than the alternator and the engine. In fact that is probably the least of it. Your door opening issue is in fact a strong hint that it is not any of those traditional time honored causes.

From what you say, I suspect there is some type of RF device that has to do with security locking in the door, or something of that nature that is causing you a problem.

If this is not solved after the next round, I would quit less your car become only scrap value. Major wiring damage in a modern vehicle is not fixable, because you can't get at it. That is why mice in the wrong place can total a vehicle, as Click and Clack used to warn. So you need to take care.

In the end I'm not optimistic that going straight to the battery will solve this.

 

[slipperybidness]

I was afraid of that. The car is new enough it can be a nightmare. There are sensors now that transmit by RF on many vehicles.

The thought of a ground problem is a good one, but it may not be a ground your installer made. There could be a problem ground anywhere in the vehicle.

I'm afraid from here on out installing after market audio is high risk venture as you are finding out. If this guy does not solve it soon, I would get you money back and go back to the stock system.

I have encountered horror stories round here were serious damage had been done to the car trying to get these installations to work.

I strongly advise never trying to instal aftermarket audio past around 2009 model years, and absolutely never if there is a head unit.

On my 2011 vehicle the warranty is expressly void if aftermarket audio is installed.

Yup, you pretty much nailed it.

Gone are the days of a quick and easy head-unit swap. And, the need for it is just about gone too.

It's just not worth the hassle anymore, and there's a good chance you already have a good system in there anyway.

And, of course, the days of the shade-tree mechanic are going right along with it!

 

[Cheema]

Yeah thanks for the help guys