M

MFPT

Enthusiast
Hi forum,

I'm new to the forum and doing an opportunity build. I have a set of 12" Realistic woofers that I've had around, and I'm going to use them in a powered sub system for home theater. They look like they're at least 10 years old- paper cones & surrounds. The serial number on the back is 40-1314B. I've searched this on google and haven't found anything. Does anyone have some means of determining their properties?

Thanks,
Michael
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Welcome to the forum!

I checked out Radio Shack's support page, made my way through to the speaker component list, and found information on that woofer. The page is linked here, and I've copied the information below:

12 Inch Speaker (400-1314) Specifications Faxback Doc. # 14751

Frequency Response.........................................67 Hz to 3.5 kHz
Sensitivity.....................................................89 SPL (db)
Impedance............................................................8 Ohms
Power Rating.....................................................50 W (RMS)
Diameter..........................................................12 Inches

Specifications are typical; individual units might vary. Specifications
are subject to change without notice.
 
M

MFPT

Enthusiast
thanks

Thanks, Adam. That's just what I was looking for.

It's very good you gave me the link, because I had been looking for a part to a Realistic amplifier that had blown spectacularly (I think a transistor, but I don't yet know enough about amplifier internals.) I was listening to Mannheim Steamroller and it was sounding great when the 20+ year-old amplifier quit and started spewing smoke. I don't know if I overloaded it or if it was time to go. Hopefully I'll be able to fix that, too.

Thanks,
Michael
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Thanks, Adam. That's just what I was looking for.

It's very good you gave me the link, because I had been looking for a part to a Realistic amplifier that had blown spectacularly (I think a transistor, but I don't yet know enough about amplifier internals.) I was listening to Mannheim Steamroller and it was sounding great when the 20+ year-old amplifier quit and started spewing smoke. I don't know if I overloaded it or if it was time to go. Hopefully I'll be able to fix that, too.

Thanks,
Michael
You won't build a sub with those drivers, not even close.
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
I have a set of 12" Realistic woofers that I've had around, and I'm going to use them in a powered sub system for home theater.
First, Welcome to AH !

What'cha have is a set of 12" Woofers, not SUBwoofers. There are Not the same thing. Like Mark said - you can't build sub with them, it's like using civic 4 cylinder engine on 40 ton truck
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Maybe they won't be as good as a "real" sub, but I bet that they sound a lot better than nothing. :) The first thread that I ever started was about using two Realistic speakers and an old receiver as a "sub." Not quite as good as the B&W sub that I had at the time, but not all that much worse. No where near as good as my Ultra, but significantly cheaper. ;)
 
M

MFPT

Enthusiast
I've been away for a while- didn't realize there were more responses. Thanks.

First, Welcome to AH !

What'cha have is a set of 12" Woofers, not SUBwoofers. There are Not the same thing. Like Mark said - you can't build sub with them, it's like using civic 4 cylinder engine on 40 ton truck
Is this because they're rated responsive only down to 67Hz? Honestly, this is a little higher than I expected. Physically, they look they they would be more impressive than that, perhaps partially due to the fact that they're shielded (and thus bulky in the magnet area.) I think I may go through with it anyway. I can always replace them with woofer drivers and use these for something else.

-Michael
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I've been away for a while- didn't realize there were more responses. Thanks.



Is this because they're rated responsive only down to 67Hz? Honestly, this is a little higher than I expected. Physically, they look they they would be more impressive than that, perhaps partially due to the fact that they're shielded (and thus bulky in the magnet area.) I think I may go through with it anyway. I can always replace them with woofer drivers and use these for something else.

-Michael
You can't look at a driver and know its application. You can however get an idea from the weight of the cone and the stiffness of the suspension.

In general sub drivers have heavy cones and compliant suspensions.

You don't want to build enclosures for those speakers, as all enclosures have to be built for a specific driver.

Before building an enclosure you must know, or be able to measure the Thiel/Small parameters of the driver. Then you design the enclosure according to those parameters and model it.

Only then can you draw up plans and start cutting wood.

So the right enclosure for your speakers, will be the wrong enclosures for the next speakers you buy.

And honestly trying to make a sub out of those drivers is a waste of time and effort and you will get discouraged.

Building speakers is not inexpensive and there is a lot of labor involved. To make it worth it you need to start with a plan that will produce good and predictable results.

In these days of computer modeling you should know how your sub will perform before making the first cut with the saw.
 
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