Having a high-power amplifier is virtually never a problem. Current is "drawn" by the speakers, it isn't "pushed" by the amplifier. The speakers will attempt to "draw" as much current as is necessary to play as loudly as you are asking them to (via the volume knob on your receiver). The worst thing that can happen is that they draw enough power to "bottom out" the driver - which simply means that the driver (tweeter or woofer) goes as far out or as far in as it physically can.
What is FAR more likely to damage your speakers is not having enough power. If your amplifier does not have enough power, your speakers might try to "draw" more power than the amplifier can provide. This leads to the amplifier "clipping" the signal. A "clipped" signal can produce an extremely loud "slap" sound, which can damage your speakers.
Most amps these days have protection circuitry that will "soft clip" the signal if the speakers attempt to draw too much power.
When it comes to looking at specs for receivers, unfortunately, the number of Watts can easily be manipulated. What you really want to find out are the number of channels being driven when they are giving their spec and over what range of frequencies and with how much Total Harmonic Distortion.
The THD figure should be under 0.1%. The frequency range should be the full 20 Hz - 20 kHz, but you will often see the spec listed for 1 kHz and 1 kHz only! Most speakers are a fairly easy load at 1 kHz. You can expect a receiver that is only rated at 1 kHz to deliver about half as much power at some other frequencies where the speaker is a harder load to drive.
Some companies - like Harmon Kardon - list their Wattage with "All channels driven", while others - like Onkyo - list their Wattage with 2 channels driven. If you do not see how many channels are being driven, you can assume that it is 1 channel at full power with the rest at 1/8th of that power rating. With a little simple math, you can figure out how many Watts the receiver's power supply is ACTUALLY providing to your speakers.
So 35 Watts/channel All 7 channels driven into 8 Ohms with 0.08% THD from 20 Hz - 20 kHz means that that receiver can pump out 245 Watts at any given moment.
Meanwhile, an 100 Watts/channel 2-channels driven into 8 Ohms with 0.08% THD from 20 Hz - 20 kHz receiver can actually only pump out 200 Watts at any given moment. So even though the first receiver says it is only a "35 Watts/channel" receiver, it is actually more powerful than this "100 Watts/channel" receiver.
Then there are the 100 Watts/channel into 8 Ohms with 0.08% THD from 20 Hz - 20 kHz receivers, which do not say how many channels. We can assume it is 1 channel at 100 Watts and 6 other channels at 12.5 Watts each. So that means it can muster 175 Watts at any given moment. They call this a "100 Watts/channel" receiver, but it is less powerful than either of the other two!
Then we've got the ones that claim "100 Watts/channel", but go on to list that it is into a 6 Ohm load with 1% THD and only at 1 kHz! If we were to try and equal that out to the other receivers, you're probably looking at about 25-30 Watts into 1 channel at 8 Ohms with 0.08$ THD from 20 Hz - 20 kHz. Not even in the same league, but you'll still see "100 Watts/channel (!!!!!!)" printed on the box - so that's where you have to watch out!