Fuse blown out... Need Help

[Cabarello]

Does anyone know where i can purchase a 125V 2.5 Fuse for a subwoofer?
I went to RadioShack and was speaking to a sales-person. He told me that the 250v 2.5A should work. I got home and tried it but it didn't. Is there another Fuse that can use or do i have to actually have to use the same kind of fuse? (125V 2.5A)

 

[majorloser]

I usually buy my fuses from the local electrical suppliers. Like Graybar, W. W. Grainger or G.E. Supply.

W.W. Grainger has a website:http://www.grainger.com

If they're Buss fuses make sure you get the number EXACTLY. The difference is in the the rating and speed of the fuse blowing. Many amp use "slow-blow" fuses.

 

[Seth=L]

The fuse can be any voltage so long as it is above the requirement, never below. The amperage has to be spot on as well as fast-acting or slow-blow (likely slow blow as majorloser indicated). You did the right thing by getting the fuse and when it blew again, this is the bad part, it indicates there is a problem with the amplifier or the woofer is possibly shorted.

Please tell us what subwoofer you have, make and model. This allows us to better evaluate the situation and find help.

 

[bandit]

Majorloser lists some good sources for you. I am worried though that you may have even something more serious wrong than just the blown fuse... as the second one blew - with a higher voltage rating. Good luck...

Bandit.

 

[markw]

When you say the new fuse worked, perhaps it did.

It's the fuse's job to blow when there is a problem with the circuit, thereby preventing further damage to the unit. By blowing it's trying to tell you there's a problem.

So, perhaps that radio shack kid was smarter than you thought,eh?

Of course, if you would rather the fuse not blow, you could always put in a fuse of a much, much higher amp rating, or even saw off a piece of a 10 penny nail. Of course, you then run the possibility of really screwing up the amp even worse.

 

[Seth=L]

Putting a fuse in with a higher amperage rating is quite possibly the worst idea ever, though it may help you to find the source of the problem. If there is a bad resistor and you power the sub up with a higher rated fuse, the resistor will start to smoke or possibly catch fire. The only benefit of doing this would be to find the problem at the risk of causing further damage to the subwoofer's amplifier or burning your house down (unlikely, but hey it could happen).

 

[Cabarello]

Thanks for the reply.. The Subwoofer i have is Sony Sa-WMSP85
Oh and the second fuse that i bought did not blow out. When i put it in, nothing happen. The Subwoofer came on but no sound.
Here is the information of the fuse that blew out.
one end says:125V 2.5A
The other ends: 51MS

the information of the new fuse (that did not blow out)
One end: 2.5A 250A
The other:BUSS GMA

Heres a pic of the fuse....

You can't really see it in this picture, but the wire in the glass is broken.

 

[markw]

So, is the sub working now?

 

[majorloser]

"Here is the information of the fuse that blew out.
one end says:125V 2.5A
The other ends: 51MS"

Is this the information from the original fuse that came with the sub?

And this is the fuse you replaced it with: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611716793

This might be a more appropriate replacement: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611734218

Here's the replacement for the 51MS fuse: http://www.picodenshi.com/fuse.php?cid=5&pid=131

 

[Seth=L]

Is that the only fuse in the subwoofer? Check to be sure there is not another one. there are some that are accesible from the outside of the sub.

 

[Cabarello]

Yes it is..

"Here is the information of the fuse that blew out.
one end says:125V 2.5A
The other ends: 51MS"

Is this the information from the original fuse that came with the sub?

And this is the fuse you replaced it with: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611716793

This might be a more appropriate replacement: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611734218

Here's the replacement for the 51MS fuse: http://www.picodenshi.com/fuse.php?cid=5&pid=131

 

[Cabarello]

Where exactly would that be?

Is that the only fuse in the subwoofer? Check to be sure there is not another one. there are some that are accesible from the outside of the sub.

 

[bandit]

The pic of your fuse sure looks like tinfoil in the fuse holder... that would be a very very bad idea.

If I am understanding correctly now - the fuse did not blow again, but still the sub makes no sound?? Can you verify the status of the replacement fuse with an ohmmeter?

 

[Seth=L]

Ha, bandit, I didn't think of that. I have seen fuses that are blown that don't appear to be. If you don't own a multimeter or ohm meter, you could just put the fuse in another circuit. You could test it using your speaker wire and just place it in line somewhere. If you don't get any sound the fuse is bad, if you do, then it is fine. Be sure to do this at a low volume, and do not run this test for very long, just long enough to verify the fuse works. The fuse may present more resistance and strain an amp if used for extended periods of time. (I am not positive that there would be resistance, just want you to make necessary precautions when testing)

 

[Seth=L]

Where exactly would that be?

It would look just like the one you replaced, with a very high likely hood of being a different rating. Note: I do not know if there is more than one fuse in that sub, but some subs do have more that one fuse. Ones that I have seen have one fuse external for AC protection and one or two internal fuses that protect the output stage and other parts.