First Home Theater

[Tadsbud]

Starting a thread as a follow on to my first thread from the general forum where I was trying to figure out a full theater setup on $2k budget. Check it out here

Well that budget is long gone =) I have to thank the helpful folks on this site for helping me really take a hard look at what I want out of my audio system. Great audio reproduction has always been an itch I've failed miserably to scratch--obvious by the Bose Amasdacrap thing on my living room floor I doubt the $500 audio system I was going to buy was going to quench my thirst for amazing audio either.

I studied Electrical Engineering in college and in my 101 course we built our own stereo receiver, amp, and speaker crossovers. Very fun class. Teacher basically gave us the required performance thresholds and the equations and turned us lose. That was 10 years ago and my job today has nothing to do with electrical engineering Anyways, that experience in college left me wanting more.

Again, thanks to the honest feedback I got on my first thread I have decided now is as good of time as any to finally scratch the itch. So I've been breaking my wife into the costs associated with owning a great set of speakers and the hobby of squeezing all the performance I can out of what I can afford. She has given me the yellow light to proceed

I am (slowly) finishing my basement that will have a dedicated area for a Home Theater System--albeit a modest space. I plan on getting a set of loudspeakers ($1300-$2000) a decent receiver ($500-$900) a quality sub (eyeing the SVS PB12-Plus) and either a projector or tv under $2000.

I am around 3 months from having the basement done. I will put up pictures as I get closer to something worth posting (of both the basement and any new equipment reveals).

thanks!

-Kerb

 

[GranteedEV]

I am (slowly) finishing my basement that will have a dedicated area for a Home Theater System--albeit a modest space. I plan on getting a set of loudspeakers ($1300-$2000) a decent receiver ($500-$900) a quality sub (eyeing the SVS PB12-Plus) and either a projector or tv under $2000.

I am around 3 months from having the basement done. I will put up pictures as I get closer to something worth posting (of both the basement and any new equipment reveals).

Well, first and foremost, I would start with the room. Having a room with good measured qualities, can really improve sound quality. The first things I would shoot for, would be as silent a noise floor as possible, dual 20a circuit breakers / lines (12awg wire) without any grounding issues. Then you want good room acoustics. Arguably, you could spend that entire budget of yours on just the room. I'm not saying to do that, but i would consider things like thick broadband bass traps along corners, and diffusion panels along the back wall, at the very least. Whatever you can do to the room in its construction stages to improve the sound (and picture), I suggest doing it before it's too late!!!

When it comes to subs, if you want decently flat response, that doesn't vary wildly from seat to seat, you really want more than one source of bass, and I don't see the SVS unit as offering that. For the same cost, I would get two Rythmik FV12s. Or perhaps a Rythmik FV15 + an FV12 integrated together. Multiple subs, is absolutely the way to go, if you want quality and consistency, not just quantity. Three subs is the ideal way to go. So maybe a Rythmik FV15 + 2 FV12s. The SVS you're looking at, is a nice unit too; audioholics reviewed it and the measurements were nice. But if you're only getting one sub, then you'll probably not be as satisfied with it, as you should be for paying that much! I think two or three $600 lesser subs, WILL produce superior results.

Here is a link to the FV12: http://www.rythmikaudio.com/FV12.html

 

[Tadsbud]

Thanks GranteedEV, lots of good info for me to pour over.

The first things I would shoot for, would be as silent a noise floor as possible, dual 20a circuit breakers / lines (12awg wire) without any grounding issues.

I was planning on running 20a breaker with 12 gauge wire to outlets for all the HT equipment. I was actually planning on a dedicated, double grounded 20amp circuit for the electronics closet and the Projector (we are most likely going for the projector). Is that what you are talking about?

Then you want good room acoustics.

I am not sure what to do right now for room acoustics. I will post a rough floor plan so you can see the entire basement space and the area I have for home theater. I plan on packing all the walls and ceiling with fiberglass insulation--but I am not sure that does much for diffusion. The walls are already framed--just finished the last wall today We are going with a drywall ceiling instead of panel--I know that will be a step in the wrong direction as far as minimizing sound reflection but we have very low ceilings.

Most of the products I was browsing this afternoon were things folks hang from walls and ceilings and stick in corners. Are there any basic rules of thumb or priority when it comes to controlling room acoustics?

Three subs is the ideal way to go.

What kind of equipment would I need to run 3 FV12's?

My original logic was to go with SVS (I can easily drive to their factory here in Ohio) and get the best sub I can afford this year and then add another next year. . The Rythmik subs seem to be very competitively priced--but I am a sucker for home-state products.

On another topic, I plan on power backup for the projector and receiver. What about power cleaning and voltage stabilization? Over-kill for what I am putting together? Worth every penny?

We will be moving from this house in 3 or so years and my next home theater might be in a larger space--so that also weighs in on some of my decision making.

 

[Tadsbud]

OK I was able to spend some time and read through all the Acoustics FAQ.

I think there are a few things I can do with my space pre-construction, and a TON of things that are simply too expensive or impractical.

Some things I am looking into...
1. Get the AC ducts properly insulated.
2. Double up the insulation in the ceiling joists.
3. My floor is made of small rocks--yes kind of odd--so I will do what I can but putting in a new floor is out of the price range. I am thinking a thick shaggy rug may help? Not sure here
4. I can run the copper etc to make sure any potential cross talk is minimized.

Post drywall, I can get some (as suggested) broadband bass traps in the corners and some diffusion panels on the back wall.

I am not sure what the ambient noise level in my basement is. I will have to see what I can do for equipment or whatnot to take some basic measurements and read more up on recommended bass traps and diffusion panels.

 

[GranteedEV]

What I would try to do, is build a four to six, 8 to 12" rigid fibreglass bass traps, right into the walls and then cover them in drapery or cloth. It's a lot more discrete than having them stick out on top of the dry wall.

Also, all bass traps should be floor to ceiling where possible, not just halfway. Ceiling-wall corners are also, still corners and a source of bass issues.

 

[Tadsbud]

What I would try to do, is build a four to six, 8 to 12" rigid fiberglass bass traps, right into the walls and then cover them in drapery or cloth. It's a lot more discrete than having them stick out on top of the dry wall.

Just to be sure, you are talking about 8-12 centimeters in depth, or do you mean 8-12 inches in width built between the studs?

thanks

 

[GranteedEV]

Width = as much surface area as you can squeeze out of it. 12", or even 24".
Height = floor to ceiling
Depth = 8" to 12" - like I said, that's why you want to build it into the wall as much as possible, becauseyou don't want a 1-foot extrusion out into the room.

That's how thick a bass trap needs to be, to be effective at low frequencies. One might even say the #1 mistake people make in their home theaters, is to hang 4" acoustic panels on walls and expect a balanced result. If anything that might just make a setup sound warm instead of neutral and tight.

 

[Tadsbud]

That's how thick a bass trap needs to be, to be effective at low frequencies.

I think 8-12'' bass trap would be cool, but the WAF has vetoed it. We are just going to stick with drywall on the walls. She is OK with me hanging 2-6'' panels on the drywall and sticking a floor to ceiling corner trap as well as hanging a 2'' or so panel from the ceiling. That is about all I am cleared for right now.

I found a helpful video that supported your concern that 2-4'' just won't do for low frequencies. I have seen others do a DIY bass trap based on the sealed box method.

My wife actually like the idea of getting printed 2'' or 4'' panels for the back wall.

 

[GranteedEV]

IMO back walls should be as diffuse, if you've got enough distance from it. You don't want to totally deaden the room - You want a balanced room.