I have learned a lot from various forums when undertaking new projects, so I feel I should finally contribute. I am a first time speaker builder and after several weeks of researching, have started my build. It is so helpful seeing all the great threads regarding this speaker on this websiste. I don't really have any woodworking experience and previously only owned a circular saw. In preparation for this project, I did buy several new tools including: router, bits, clamps, straight edge, and a used biscuit cutter.
I am going to document my build and since there were a couple steps I wasn't too clear about, I will post my techniques so that it might help others with the same level of experience.
1) How to cut the openings in the braces.
2) How to attach the braces when gluing up the sides. Dado or not to dado. Or in my case....use biscuits.
For the braces, the following is a final picture of how they look.
I decided to make the thickness 3/4" around the perimeter and 1" thick for the cross member. This gave me the opening size which I then used to calculate a template size for the cut outs. The following shows the templates secured to my brace, ready to be cut.
I used a guide bit on my router to trace the template. The guide bit I purchased has a 5/8" outer diameter and an opening of 17/32". The guide bit is shown below.
When attached to the router, you can see how the guide bit abuts a random piece of wood. Please note how the guide bit projects from the router base and can limit the thickness of material to be cut. I used a 3/8" cutting bit which was 1" long, so that it would be able to cut through the 3/4" mdf below the 1/4" template.
Also, note how the opening will be larger than the template I follow the router. The edge of the cutting bit is 1/2" beyond the template (half the guide diameter of 5/8" plus half the cutting bit diameter of 3/8". Therefore, I end up with width and length dimensions of the opening which are each 1" larger than the template. The pieces will look like this below......however, this photo was taken after I routed a roundover along the sharp edges.
