DYI Speaker Stand (Cheap/Disposable)

T

Tizeye

Enthusiast
I am about to start a 'fun' project over the next few month home trialing speakers! Basically, will be using the 30 day trials to convince wike that she doesn't want "cute" Bose. :eek: To be fair, will get the previous generation Bose (passive subwoffer) at Sam's where can keep up to a year for refund, or more realistically, 90 days with no interest. Everything should blow it out of the water. Will probably end up with bookshelf size as I know towers are out. (Although I wounder if she would like the Olm Micro Walsh since doesn't 'look like' a speaker :rolleyes: ).

To do it, I need 8 stands for front and rear - and don't want them at $100 a pair. Long term may only need 2 stands as the rears will probably be wall mounted. I know I can build some oak ones (stained to match the entertainment center) for bookshelf speakers for about $15 a pair. Also, throw away in pine painted black for about $8 a pair. Will describe them below, but my questions are on metal posts for small speakers such as the Bose.

METAL STANDS:

Will probably use a wooden base (like the wooden stands) with 1/2" metal conduit. Can connect to base with conduit compression attachemnt with a hole drilled through the base. Would drill 3/4 back rather than center of the base, to better support the weight of the speaker. Where I am having a problem is the top attachment. Any suggestions? Also, I don't think it would be an issue, but any will the metal pipe interfere with the transmission as the speaker wire is run up through it? :confused:
WOODEN STANDS:

These are easy.
Bottom: 1x8 Oak, route edges, or 1x6 Oak and 1/4 edging trim mitreing corners. Hole drilled for speaker wire passthrough.
Riser: Attached to bottom with dowels/glue. Two 1x2 Oak boards and 1/4" rounds (also, Loewes has some 1" cove in oak that would look nicer - HD didn't). Glue the boards to each side of the moulding, forming a "V" shape with the round, or "Expanded V" with the cove. Wiring can obviously come up the back side and be well hidden.
Top: Wanted to find metal for the top platform and just about settled on 1/4" ply with the top covered with a non-skid/vibration insulating material (like shelf liner). Went into Michael's craft store and they had thinner 3mm birch ply. 12x12 @ $1.99 would do 2 tops. Also had 12x12 self sticking felt. Also, for those who don't have/want router for the bottom unit, they had unfinished plaques in various styles and sizes $0.99 - $1.49 - in pine but could be painted black.
Feet: On another thread somebody mentioned arrows which is a good idea. For wooden, Loewes and HD have wooden drawer handles, but expensive as priced each. In bulk, Lowes has shallow platforms as dowell hole covers. Also, Michael's has round balls flattened on one end and hole drilled through for dowell.

SAND FILLED???

Not a priority of mine, but a variation of the metal stand. For those who want sand filled, switch to PVC Schedule 40 rather than conduit, 1/2" internal for wiring with 2" (or larger) exterior pipe - filling the void between the two. (Could use 2" metal conduit but more expensive than PVC). Haven't thought about how the 2" would connect to top and bottom other than straight glue. Obviously, this would be primed and painted.

Any suggestions on the metal post would be appreciated! Thanks.
 
U

Unregistered

Guest
Most cost effective speaker stand known to mankind. <= notice the period ;)

 
U

Unregistered

Guest
Sorry I should have added, buy enough cinder blocks to do your 8 pairs, then when you decide which speakers you like, return the blocks to Home Depot and buy the materials you want/need to make the kind you want. That way nothing is wasted. These things are like $2-$3 each and 2 stacked is usually high enough for bookshelf type speakers.
 
T

Tizeye

Enthusiast
Too Late!

I had some just like that in college. Placed some boards on top and make bookshelves. Not that I studied, but the books looked impressive.

I just made stands for small speakers like the Bose, DT 8's, Polk 6700 etc. All parts from Home Depot, but can't take back for refund as per the blocks. However, considering that people will pay $150-200 for 4 stands, these only cost me $10. Can you say Ebay?

Material:
1/2" x10' conduit, cut in 30" sections
1 x 8 pine cut in 12" sections, drill hole 2/3 back for weight management
2x2 pine cut in 2" sections for top
Arrow tips with dowels for feet
Black enamel
Metal mounting plate

Drill holes 11/16 on pipe side, 1/2 on bottom and top side enabling internal wire routing with the 1/2" exit holes providing a pipe stop. 11/16 is very tight with the outside diameter of the 1/2" conduit. Painting further binds in.

For more finished look, routed base edges with roman olgee, and rounded edges on top.

If had to do over would probably use MDF rather than pine as no grain to deal with when painting for a smoother finish.

Haven't done the bookshelf stands, but will probably do them out of solid oak and stain. Rather than a pipe center, using 1x3 boards and moulding to form "V" to hide wires behind.

Photo below - metal mounting strip not installed yet.

(Couldn't inset photo - may be part of an attached file)
 

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