Do AV components need custom cooling?

[KiranH]

Hey everyone, I was wondering if projectors or recievers need some extra cooling to prevent failure and maybe increase the performance?

 

[everettT]

Hey everyone, I was wondering if projectors or recievers need some extra cooling to prevent failure and maybe increase the performance?

Of course any additional is nice, just if its needed which requires more info

 

[ryanosaur]

Can't speak to projectors, but AVRs can get hot. For my Marantz SR6012, I've seen it measure up around 113F while running Audyssee tests... ~20 minutes with my fans off. Depending on your setup, you could go with just simple fans on top to pull air through your AVR, or I use an AC Infinity Aircom T-series box. I have the T-10 (front vent) because I was in a cabinet for a while. I prefer the T-8 rear vent if you don't have anything behind it.
Remember that you want space around it on all sides for air circulation too... most mfgrs say 6-8 inches. If you Top vent, you shouldn't have anything above but open space. These Tseries are easy to set up and give you a thermostat reaading if you turn the diplay on. In 2-channel mode, Eco ON utilizing external Amps, my AVR doesn't get above 80F now.

 

[everettT]

Can't speak to projectors, but AVRs can get hot. For my Marantz SR6012, I've seen it measure up around 113F while running Audyssee tests... ~20 minutes with my fans off. Depending on your setup, you could go with just simple fans on top to pull air through your AVR, or I use an AC Infinity Aircom T-series box. I have the T-10 (front vent) because I was in a cabinet for a while. I prefer the T-8 rear vent if you don't have anything behind it.
Remember that you want space around it on all sides for air circulation too... most mfgrs say 6-8 inches. If you Top vent, you shouldn't have anything above but open space. These Tseries are easy to set up and give you a thermostat reaading if you turn the diplay on. In 2-channel mode, Eco ON utilizing external Amps, my AVR doesn't get above 80F now.

I sorta amended my post which you cover nicely

 

[Grandzoltar]

I thought about those component fans too. Dissipating heat from a projector may be a good idea to if you can get a unit to fit it. A cooler running unit should prolong the life of the component and keeping dust from entering the unit is a plus too.

 

[MR.MAGOO]

IMO the only time you might need custom cooling is if the components are rack mounted and airflow is limited, such as in a closet.

 

[lovinthehd]

All of the above and it might start with your room temperature to an extent, too.

 

[BMXTRIX]

The number one killer of electronics is heat, but there is no question in my mind that most gear is designed to properly cool itself without additional fans as long as equipment isn't packed in and has proper airflow.

That last part is what people most often screw up quite royally.

AV gear is stuffed into credenzas and closets and cabinets and on shelves without any look at the manual and the required air space that the gear demands.

If that's the setup, then you aren't adding gear to the equipment, you are adding gear to the space to properly allow the equipment to breathe as it was designed.

I deal with gear every single day which is put into cabinets and credenzas. I have the conversation of furniture modifications to add fans for proper chimney style airflow. In most cases, that's all that is needed. Draw cool air into the space, and vent hot air out of the space. Keep doing that and the gear will stay perfectly cool.

But, the best option is to have each component on it's own shelf with a few inches between all components and let it work as it was designed to do so. Don't stack gear if it can be avoided. Make sure there is an inch or two above each piece of gear so it can properly breathe.

No fans necessary.

 

[ryanosaur]

The number one killer of electronics is heat, but there is no question in my mind that most gear is designed to properly cool itself without additional fans as long as equipment isn't packed in and has proper airflow.

That last part is what people most often screw up quite royally.

Don't stack gear if it can be avoided. Make sure there is an inch or two above each piece of gear so it can properly breathe.

Word!

 

[Swerd]

I deal with gear every single day which is put into cabinets and credenzas. I have the conversation of furniture modifications to add fans for proper chimney style airflow. In most cases, that's all that is needed. Draw cool air into the space, and vent hot air out of the space. Keep doing that and the gear will stay perfectly cool.

BMXRIX said it well. I don't know if I can add anything to his post, but I'll try.

Hot air naturally rises above cool air. Don't trap hot air. Don't block cool air from entering. Passive convection works if you allow it. Before you buy fans to assist passive convection, learn the normal operating temperature range of your gear.