DIY sub question on amp/box

[pupuplader]

I was interested in getting two TC-7 drivers http://www.tcsounds.com/tc7.htm#dim. I was interested in building the box found here http://www.decware.com/WO32/wo32.htm. Im not sure on the best amp that I would need to power the two TC-7's.

If anyone has any ideas on an amp or different box please let me know.

Thanks

 

[annunaki]

That appears to be a well thought out, snazzy looking 4th order bandpass enclosure. I have not modeled the woofer in question, but what is wrong with a more typical well designed ported or sealed enclosure? It is interesting though.

If you run a sealed enclosure or want to tweak the response to balance the room(regardess of enclosure), look into the Behringer DCX2496 Ultradrive crossover/eq

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=248-669

 

[annunaki]

As for an amplifier, I would suggest the Behringer EP1500. You can run the subwoofers in a series parallel configuration and get a 4 ohm mono load on the amplifier for about 1,400 watts rms. It is a great buy for $299.99!

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=248-745

 

[pupuplader]

Nothing wrong with the ported or sealed, but because of budget reasons dont think I will be able to aford 2 drivers so my box plan wont work.

Probably go with a vented box, not sure on the dimensions yet, ran it through WinISD but needs a little more tweaking.

When I get some more money I will for sure get the ep1500.

Would I need the Ultradrive crossover?

 

[annunaki]

The Behringer Ultradrive crossover will make a load of difference in any room with nearly any sub system. Is it needed, no. Should be on a "to purchase" list at some point, yes.

What size room (in cu.ft.) are you using the sub in? Will you be doing a single 10" driver only? For larger rooms multiple small subs or a single larger sub is recommended.

On the website it appeared as though that sub was really designed for sealed boxes. If I have time I will see about modeling it in a vented enclosure on WinIsd.

 

[pupuplader]

Room is about 1800 cubic feet. Going to go with a single driver.

I really am impartial to vented or sealed, I just have heard other subs that are vented that friends have and they sound really good.

As I look at the web page I see that it was designed for more of a sealed enclosure.

 

[annunaki]

I would look for a 12" driver or potentially larger for that room. A well done 10 in a ported enclosure may work but it may not sound commanding. What type of budget are you on for the driver itself? The Adire Audio Shiva MkII is a great buy as are the Dayton Titanic MkIII & High Fidelity woofers. Though they are car subs, the JL Audio W1v2 & W3v3 series woofers work well for DIY applications as well. The W6v2 and W7 work great too but get a bit pricey.

What are your main goals for the subwoofer in question? Deep extension, absolute accuracy, output?

 

[pupuplader]

I am trying to stay under $150 for the driver, if I really push it I can get 200

 

[annunaki]

Here are some drivers to look into:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=290-570

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-464

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-404

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=297-608

15" http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-468

The first and second choices will probably be the best for sound quality as they have very low inductance figures and should be quite accurate. If I get a chance I will model them later this week.

I threw a 15" in there as well. It is bit over budget though. If you wanted to have more than enough it is an option.

 

[Sheep]

Just to let you know, TC sounds has box specs on there website for 2 different sounds (tunes higher for more SPL, Tuned lower for more extension). And either 3 or 4 different box styles.

SheepStar

 

[WmAx]

The first and second choices will probably be the best for sound quality as they have very low inductance figures and should be quite accurate.)

I fail to see the sense in using Le as a determing factor of 'quality' for a subwoofer. There exist too many variables.

For example, let's take an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 subwoofer. It has an Le of over 3 mH. Relatively high. This driver measures superbly, and better than most, in terms of non-linear distortion. In fact, this passive driver exceeds in many cases, the non-linear distortion of even highly regarded premium products such as the Velodyne DD 12 servo-feedback controlled subwoofer system.

The Peerless XLS you linked is another good example. It has excellent performance, as verified by Linkwitz, and as such, he chose this driver to use in his Thor subwoofer system.

Consider the JL Audio W7 drivers. These have relative high inductance, according to people on forums that have apparently measured this parameter. Yet, this is an extraordinary high quality driver series with exceptionally low distortion.

-Chris

 

[annunaki]

Chris,

I was simply pointing to inductance as a figure that usually indicates good transient response. There are obviously many variables that go into a good subwoofer design. In most experiences I have had, subs that had lower inductance figures have ususally been good performers. Obviously suspension and motor linearity can have great effects here as well, and in some if not all cases are just as, if not more, important. All of the woofers I pasted links to have quite linear motor/suspension designs. I guess pointing to one specific parameter is not the best way to do it as it is a system of parts working together.

 

[WmAx]

Chris,

I was simply pointing to inductance as a figure that usually indicates good transient response.

Yes, in a full range context, this is true. Inductance in series acts as a low pass filter, causing upper frequencies to be reduced in amplitude. This must cause a slower rise time. However, in actual use (with a crossover system), it is irrelevant to transient response, since upper bandwidth will be dictated by the crossover.

-Chris