Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
Ok, my first DIY home theater project. I decided I needed speaker stands for a set of bookshelves I have and have been shopping around the past few days. What I've found is everything is made up of primarily the same things and they range in prices from $40 to $200. Well I decided I think I can make something probably just about as good as the $200 set for about the price of the $40 dollar ones. Heres what I've started with:

1/2" MDF that I've had sitting in the garage for awhile. Will be used for lower base doubled up to make a 1" thick lower panel. For the top panel I'm not sure whether I'm going to stick with just a 1/2" thick sheet or double it up as well, I'll see how stable it is farther into the construction project. For the shaft I am using 3" PVC Piping, heavy duty stuff, which I will later fill with sand, figure I can get about 40 to 50 lbs in the cylinder which should make the stand very stable. To attach the PVC pipe to the upper and lower bases I found couplings that attatch that the PVC slides and have a 2" shoulder to give added stability and have a lip on them allowing them to be bolted to the bases. All bolts will be counter sunk to leave level surfaces. Not quite sure how I'm going to paint these yet, I'm thinking of going black on the MDF and silver on the shafts. I'll post some pics during the process, just started tonight so I'm curious to see how long the project will take.
 
Y

yelo

Audiophyte
Try sandwiching the couplings between pieces of MDF by routing a recess in one piece and precisely cut holes in the others in order to hide the couplings INSIDE the MDF bases and tops.....it may take 1.5" worth of MDF to do so but the results are worth it. I actually mades stands EXACTLY like these for a pair of HEAVY potted plants in my living room....you can't tell that the couplings are there at all!
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
Yeah, I had actually thought about that on my way to work today. I'm not sure, the way I have it set up now, it will be easier to take apart for transportation as I can easily unbolt the top and bottom plates, and the shaft will be sealed with the couplings, so I wont have to empty the sand all the time when moving them.
I dunno, we'll see once I start putting it together more, just started cutting mdf and gluing last night.
 
Rip Van Woofer

Rip Van Woofer

Audioholic General
Another way to go with PVC pipe is to use threaded rod thru the length of the pipe to hold the base and top plates to the PVC pipe. You just need a flat recess (use a spade bit or Forstner bit in your drill) in the base and top plates for the nut and washer at each end. This eliminates the flange coupling that you are using for a smoother appearance.
 
R

RMK!

Guest
Rip Van Woofer said:
Another way to go with PVC pipe is to use threaded rod thru the length of the pipe to hold the base and top plates to the PVC pipe. You just need a flat recess (use a spade bit or Forstner bit in your drill) in the base and top plates for the nut and washer at each end. This eliminates the flange coupling that you are using for a smoother appearance.

Hey, how'd I end up on the Hints from Heloise site.
Don't throw away that used cheese cloth, with a little paint, it makes exellent speaker grill cover material.
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
hidog1 said:
Hey, how'd I end up on the Hints from Heloise site.
Don't throw away that used cheese cloth, with a little paint, it makes exellent speaker grill cover material.
Well....you did post in a DIY thread, so hmm....well maybe the whole point is to find ways to DO SOMETHING YOURSELF without having to buy it pre made. I'm sorry some people take pride in building and customizing something themselves so noone else has something exactly the same.
 
R

RMK!

Guest
Spiffyfast said:
Well....you did post in a DIY thread, so hmm....well maybe the whole point is to find ways to DO SOMETHING YOURSELF without having to buy it pre made. I'm sorry some people take pride in building and customizing something themselves so noone else has something exactly the same.
As a dedicated do it your selfer, I do understand. I was making a feeble attempt at humor. Build on and gods speed Spiffy.
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
hidog1 said:
As a dedicated do it your selfer, I do understand. I was making a feeble attempt at humor. Build on and gods speed Spiffy.
ok, much better, sounded more as an antagonistic remark
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
well, most of the cutting is done on the stands, now I just have assembly and finish work, probably would have already been completely done if it wasnt for the week of 110 degree weather we had here in MO
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
Oh forgot, anyone have an idea for what I can use to put carpet/tile spikes on the bottom of the stands, looked at home depot, couldn't really find anything that would work except some special order cabinet knobs, any suggestions?
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
How about some spikes from Parts Express? $18.88 for a 4pc set.

Part #240-715 for Black Chrome
Part #240-716 for Chrome
Part #240-717 for Black
Part #240-718 for Gold
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
perfect, i figured they carried something, gonna be ordering a bunch of banana plugs from them, so ill just throw in the spikes too
 
Rip Van Woofer

Rip Van Woofer

Audioholic General
Heloise here again, with a spike alternative: :D

Go to your local huntin' and fishin' -type sporting goods store and get archery target points and matching threaded inserts -- yep, for arrows. Epoxy the inserts into holes drilled to match and screw the points into them.

You'll pay around $12 - 15 total for a dozen points and inserts.

But I wouldn't use spikes on a hard surface floor! For that, stick with rubber feet IMO. Why scratch up your tile or hardwood?

Cheesecloth and paint for grill cloth, huh? Intriguing... ;)

Meanwhile, see my speaker stands if you're interested: http://www.bruce.coppola.name/audio/LinkwitzMiniDipolePrototyp/09_bothInRoom.html
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
that's a great idea, I would have never thought about that, and the tile floor its going on is the room in my fraternity house and it's already trashed and we're replacing all the flooring next summer, so I'm not too worried about scratching it, but maybe I'll put rubber pads under them
 
Last edited:
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
Rip Van Woofer's

OH, just noticed, I used to live in Pontiac and Lake Orion about 15 years ago, good old detroit suburbs, I miss those mild summers, d*mn Missouri 110 in the summer -10 in the winter...
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
The PE spikes include discs to prevent damage to your floors. I've used these guys on my center channel and my previous sub. They work great.
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
Mild summers? Uhm...90 degrees and 100% humidty? Not so mild. Today we're actually having nice mid-70s weather with livable humidity.
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
jaxvon said:
Mild summers? Uhm...90 degrees and 100% humidty? Not so mild. Today we're actually having nice mid-70s weather with livable humidity.
90 is way better than 110 and we still have the 100% humidity, 90 would feel like spring
 
Spiffyfast

Spiffyfast

Audioholic General
Well the speaker stands are done at least as much as they are going to be worked on, turned out pretty good, don't think i will need to fill them with sand, they weight plenty, as soon as i can find the digital camera i'll post some pics
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top